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Won't start warm with e-start

Joined Jan 2006
218 Posts | 2+
San Antonio, TX USA
Disclaimer: I'm a wrenchin' retard, and should probably not be allowed to do anything more complicated than an oil change. That said, I need help...

My bike suddenly began giving me a problem with starting. When warm, even slightly warm, it will not start with the e-start, although it kick starts pretty easily. When it gets very hot, it simply shuts down (like out of fuel) at slower speeds, and will not re-start even by kicking until the temperature comes down somewhat.

Surrounding/preceding events: I installed a Vapor odo/tach unit. I works fine, and I don't see how it could have any affect on how the bike runs. I attached the tach wire to the plug connection at the coil, and just for grins I pulled that wire to find no affect.

At the same service setting as the computer install, I changed the sparkplug. I used an oem replacement and set the gap at .025 inch, or about .6 mm. I thought I might have gotten a bad plug so I got another one and put it in....same problem.

Also at that interval I checked the valves and did a slight reset of the intakes to .005 inch, or about .12 mm. I thought about the possibility of being 180 degrees out, or simply getting the gaps wrong, so I rechecked everything the next day after the motor was completely cool. All is good there, within a very high level of certainty.

I have an autoclutch, so I have to open the stator cover in order to turn the motor. I don't know if I could have done anything wrong there, but I as I said before, my mechanical skills are singularly unimpressive.

Fuel is fresh, and high octane pump gas, which is what I normally run.

Oil level is fine, although it is due for a change.

I don't know if my problem is electrical, mechanical, animal or veggie.

Ok... you have your case study. Where did I go from here?
 
you have a worn auto decomp unit .

i would use the 1/6th of a turn method on your valves , if it wont run when its hot it could be
a valve adjustment issue .
 
I would get it up to the temperature point that it quits running and then check for spark. I think it is electrical since the starter only works until it is warm and it will still kickstart.

It you adjusted the valves on the wrong TDC it wouldn't even start at all, so that is not the problem, as long as you clearances are good. A stator on the way out often fails when warm, or it could be something as simple as the plug cap.

Check and make sure it is not a tank vent issue (fuel-related), but I think you have an electrical issue.
 
whosahberg said:
you have a worn auto decomp unit .

i would use the 1/6th of a turn method on your valves , if it wont run when its hot it could be
a valve adjustment issue .

The decomp only affects the exhaust valves, right? Hard starting when hot is indicative of tight intake valves, which he has checked twice.
 
Johnf3 said:
I would get it up to the temperature point that it quits running and then check for spark. I think it is electrical since the starter only works until it is warm and it will still kickstart.

It you adjusted the valves on the wrong TDC it wouldn't even start at all, so that is not the problem, as long as you clearances are good. A stator on the way out often fails when warm, or it could be something as simple as the plug cap.

Check and make sure it is not a tank vent issue (fuel-related), but I think you have an electrical issue.
Thanks guys for the ideas. The tank is venting just fine, and I even removed the cap just to be extra sure.

I've thought about the stator, but it's never shown a hint of a problem. I think I'll get a friend to triple check my valve adjustments. It's not like I haven't checked and adjusted the valves before, but I can't quite shake the feeling that I've somehow screwed up. We'll use the 1/6 method.

Thanks for the idea about checking for spark after it's warm. That's logical, which is probably why I didn't think of it. I'll do that tomorrow.
 
My two cents,

I agree with Johnf3. It could be a bad stator, or coil. I don't think it could be the CDI as they usually just quit and that's it when they go south, but, intermittent electrical problems are a bugger.

If you have an ohm meter you might be able to see the problem with it cold. If you do have a meter, my advice, pull the tank and check the ohm readings as given in the book. If all looks okay and you can duplicate the problem at a convenient location, do so and then check the readings as soon as it quits so you can be sure of what exactly is failing. Be sure and check the trigger sensor as well, that's the other set of wires coming from the stator cover.

Also, there is coolant in the bike right? You didn't mention that in your first post.
 
hmmm ..ok , the stator issue is interesting , out of all the stator failures i've had [ 2 in total ]
the bike stopped dead . would not start again , are we talking sem here :la:
 
i would look at the carb. what color was the plug ceramic insulator on the one you took out? what color is the present one? will it start on the button when hot using the hot start valve? any recent changes in the pilot fuel screw?
 
What do you call "OEM replacement" plug? What brand and model is it?

I only use the NGK and it gives me the best spark. If the timing is right (engine and stator position), if the stator works fine and if the carb is set properly, it should e-start when hot.

I would suggest downloading the hard start guide and doing the different tests. The most important one are the resistance reading on the stator. A cheap multimeter will work just fine.

I would advise contacting Sparks on this forum. Ok, he did mine for free, since I won the 1000th rewound stator reward, but I swear the bike works a lot better and starts much easier than before.
 
Easy boys - lets not confuse the guy too much.
He's on an 05 and unless I'm mistaken they don't have the SEM ignition so don't even go there!
Let's go the obvious - valve adjustment.
Satex - you said that you set them to 0.12 which would indicate the use of feeler gauges.
Put the feeler gauges back in your toolbox until next time you need to check a plug gap and set the valves using the 1/6 turn method.
Even go as tight as 1/8th turn if you suspect any wear on the auto decomp.
Oh, and like Daleo said, it wouldn't hurt to check if it's full of coolant.
Coops
 
I did not see he had an 05. Reading about a Berg that does not e-start when warm makes me automatically think it's a 01-03.
 

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