I have an 11 FS570 SM I purchased new in spring 2012 for street riding only. The suspension is totally rigid on this thing. I am supposedly the target weight of 185 pounds. I have played with the clickers and sag to no avail. I am currently full out on compression and rebound with 100mm of sag. It is still mega harsh on the bumpy Connecticut roads. I realize the stock set up is for glass smooth race tracks at very high speed. That set up is bone jarring on regular roads and my back can't take the beating anymore. Otherwise it is an awesome handling machine with great power once derestricted.
Who can fix the suspension on my 11 FS570?
- Thread starter kneehurts
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- fix fs570 suspension
I have the same problem on mine that shock spring is ridiculous.I once had about 60 lbs of groceries in my back pack and it rode great.The right spring would make the seat bearable.MY forks loosened up over time and seem pretty good.Ithink the spring is shorter tan the fe spring and might be hard to find .Any body got the cure ? Thanks Skred
Joined Nov 2012
2K Posts | 821+
Iceland
If the spring is shorter than the usual length, we ought to be able to cut a longer softer one. It's something like X percent shorter means also X percent stiffer. So it's easy to figure out what stiffness uncut spring you want to get a good rate after the cut.
But - i have seen it convincingly argued that the soft/stiff character of the suspension is more the suspension valving than the spring rate. DIY revalving should be possible, either "by ear" or with the help of Shim Restackor: http://shimrestackor.com
But - i have seen it convincingly argued that the soft/stiff character of the suspension is more the suspension valving than the spring rate. DIY revalving should be possible, either "by ear" or with the help of Shim Restackor: http://shimrestackor.com
I have got a 2010 fs 570 and weigh only 60-62 kg (70+ with riding gear)
I set my suspension on "comfort" settings according to the manual this was good for me imo.
I had my forks serviced the beginning of this year and I also left my rear schock they just put 1-2mm less preload on the spring and now I'm using "normal" settings on the rear and comfort +1click extra preload on the front (on top of forks).
Still a little stiff for some bumpy roads but good on track 8)
I set my suspension on "comfort" settings according to the manual this was good for me imo.
I had my forks serviced the beginning of this year and I also left my rear schock they just put 1-2mm less preload on the spring and now I'm using "normal" settings on the rear and comfort +1click extra preload on the front (on top of forks).
Still a little stiff for some bumpy roads but good on track 8)
Springs hold the bike up for proper sag, valving dictates 'comfort'.
I think 100mm for street only is too much sag. Your rear spring is actually too soft.
The valving on the FS f/r is a little stiff, and the fork does loosen a slight amount as it miles in. The f/r is 20mm shorter than FE via use of spacers, not sure if they use a shorter spring or a different groove in the perch/tube.
I don't know the stock rate on the FS fork spring, but it is likely stiffer than the FE. A cut FE spring might turn from .44 to .45, which may work well for you. Any KTM/wp closed fork spring cut down will work for you, and allow for lots of rate choices.
I think 100mm for street only is too much sag. Your rear spring is actually too soft.
The valving on the FS f/r is a little stiff, and the fork does loosen a slight amount as it miles in. The f/r is 20mm shorter than FE via use of spacers, not sure if they use a shorter spring or a different groove in the perch/tube.
I don't know the stock rate on the FS fork spring, but it is likely stiffer than the FE. A cut FE spring might turn from .44 to .45, which may work well for you. Any KTM/wp closed fork spring cut down will work for you, and allow for lots of rate choices.
Anthon Berg said:
I work on my own bikes and only have 700 miles on the berg. I also have a 2012 ktm 250 xc-w and I am almost tempted to take the fork and shock off that and use them on the berg. The 250's open cartridge forks and shock are spot on offroad for my weight. I believe offroad valving works great onroad. The 04 husky te 450 I previously owned and put marzocchi closed cartridge forks and an ohlins shock valved for woods was like a Cadillac on the street. Regarding the berg I was advised to try 100mm of sag and that resulted in a very slight improvement over the stock.
kneehurts said:
The CC forks seem to hold through the midstroke better, but everyone seems to think they are not as plush as the OC forks
I don't think any of the KTM shocks will fit in our 09-11 70d Husas.
For dirt, the consensus seems to be 105-115mm sag for the PDS bikes. Any of the linkage bikes are around 100-105mm. For street, or some street, I think we are in trial and error mode for what works best. I think the SM guys are in the 70-80mm range, on lowered suspensions.
I would suggest reading "top 10 reasons why your suspension is harsh" by Adam Krefting at
http://www.kreftmoto.com. Adam specializes in KTM/Husaberg suspension.
http://www.kreftmoto.com. Adam specializes in KTM/Husaberg suspension.
Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 773+
Ely, England
what are spring rate codes written on the side of the spring?
also, how wound up is the spring? try and pull the rear shock out (about 2 minutes work) and measure the spring in the shock in its compressed state?
come back with that info please?
Taffy
also, how wound up is the spring? try and pull the rear shock out (about 2 minutes work) and measure the spring in the shock in its compressed state?
come back with that info please?
Taffy
Taffy said:
I originally pulled the shock to set the sag after watching one of the utube videos on it. You are absolutely right about how easy it is. I remember I took 3 turns out of it to get 100 mm of sag. It was exactly 85mm to begin with. I have one of those sag tools that plug in the axle and measure to a known mark on the fender. You set the tool to zero unloaded on the stand, adjust the preload and measure again with bike off stand and sitting on the bike. Thanks for the help!
Joined Nov 2012
2K Posts | 821+
Iceland
Hey - If you're interested, then I can sim valve stacks for you in Shim Restackor. We'd just need to find out the geometry of the suspension internals. Your FS has the closed-chamber forks, right? Maybe someone somewhere has already simmed them in Shim Restackor. If you find the measurements, I'll sim any stacks you throw at me.
Also check static sag. You'll want 25-35mm rear. A heavy rider, can crank up the shock preload to get into this range, but will make the ride quite harsh. A light rider can drop preload to get into range but might still fall short of rider sag.
It is the combo of getting the rider sag you want(fully dressed for riding), and static that will tell you if you're at/near the right shock spring for your weight.
Stock 2011 FS rear is a 8.0 spring. The stock fork is a CC.
My FE was quite harsh on smooth CA roads, will comp all the way out. The fork broke in a little and got a little better, allowing me to add some comp, but still not great.
When I added shorter fork springs, I also pulled out some slow and fast comp shims. (also pulled comp shims out of shock, as well as rebound). Much better ride experience now for me (175lbs dressed(gear is heavy)) both dirt and road.
It is the combo of getting the rider sag you want(fully dressed for riding), and static that will tell you if you're at/near the right shock spring for your weight.
Stock 2011 FS rear is a 8.0 spring. The stock fork is a CC.
My FE was quite harsh on smooth CA roads, will comp all the way out. The fork broke in a little and got a little better, allowing me to add some comp, but still not great.
When I added shorter fork springs, I also pulled out some slow and fast comp shims. (also pulled comp shims out of shock, as well as rebound). Much better ride experience now for me (175lbs dressed(gear is heavy)) both dirt and road.
Hi,
anyone know the factory measures of the factory valving and shims? Front and rear too. The suspension is before assembly and probably its not factory inside. Would be good to know what is it then.
2010 FS570
Thank you!
anyone know the factory measures of the factory valving and shims? Front and rear too. The suspension is before assembly and probably its not factory inside. Would be good to know what is it then.
2010 FS570
Thank you!
Joined Apr 2014
689 Posts | 252+
Chilliwack, BC, Canada
I am curious to how you could possibly set sag with the shock out? Sag is set with rider, gear and sitting in the position you ride. Taking the shock out can give you a starting point and nothing more. You then need to set it to you and your weight as everyone will be different and not one setting will work for all unless we ride in the same position, weigh the same. Should you be to light or heavy then you need to change the spring as this is the only way to rectify correct spring weight and sag.
Check the link as it might help
http://husaberg.org/suspension/20205-setting-sag.html#post159894
Check the link as it might help
http://husaberg.org/suspension/20205-setting-sag.html#post159894
I set the sag when the shock is out. However I measure it with the shock in 
I suppose he do it the same way.
I suppose he do it the same way.Hello Mr Hurts. Get it right the the easy way. Look into W.E.R suspension shop. Ex champion Drew Smith and his techs are near you. They easily fix the Susp bits on our Husabergs. Good luck, L
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