Which Oil do you use

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Mobil 1 Racing4T is lablled 15/50 and sold here in Oz as a motorcycle oil. I've use dit foe years in my road bikes as I have had access to Mobil at wholesale prices. Mobil 1 generally has a good reputation, and I still use the 5/50 in my car and ute.

Subjectively, the Racing 4T does seem to pour a easier out of the bottle in winter compared to the Delo 400 even though they are both rated 15 w

Steve
 
Used motul 5100, has now changed to IPON. Expensive but I hope its worth it.
Chenge oil and filter every 5 hrs.
 
Steve how often do you change the delo 400? How many hours or kms?
 
Not to highjack this thread but I think this question expands on the orignal poster's question

There is a Shell Rotella T Multigrade at 15W-40 but I can't find a 15W-50 or 20W-50 as recommended in the Berg manual. I have read somewhere in UHE that Rotella is equivalent to Delo 400..

Is is critical to maintain the 15W-50 requirement for summer conditions or is a quality 15W-40 oil sufficient.

The Chevron site suggest Delo only comes in 15W-40 as well - is this what people are using?

Thanks

Mark
 
I believe that others here and elsewhere have identified Shell Rotella in some form or other as being OK.There are a number of Rotellas. There are a number of Delo oils too, we want the 400 version. I seem to remember Dale quoting Delo as an acronym for Diesel Engine Lubricating Oil.

I change mine at 5 hrs +/-, because I can and its cheap. May go to 10 hrs but I do start to get a little concerned when it heads that way. I know it should be OK, buts Delo is cheap, and its easy to change.

The 15/40 seems to be fine. The Bergs don't run that hot hence the 40W is OK. I've certainly run my Begs on 35-40 degree days and I wilt before they do.

For winter the 15W may be a bit thick, they need a good kick to get them spinning and overcome the drag of the heavier oil when the temp is below 0. I don't like working a motor until its warm, but I also don't like idling them to get them warm. Once the engine has fired and the choke is off, dog paddle a bit to get them moving and click into gear, ride steadily to bring up to temp and after 5 mins or so should be ready to go.

Steve
 
I have been using Shell Advance Ultra 15W-50 for a couple of Supermono seasons now. I change after each racing weekend (1-2 hours). I would have liked the pistons/sleeves to last a little longer. Sounds like Silkolene Pro 4 10W-50 have been well recieved here in Europe?
 
The diesel motor oils in 15w-40, and the synthetic varieties in 5w-40, seem to be adequate in a Husaberg. A lot of folks run these oils, including me, with excellent results. I run the Shell Rotella T synthetic 5w-40 in everything I ride or drive. It keeps the shelf stock in my garage simple.
 
I used shell advance in a ktm 400 and will never again touch it, the engine seized on the second ride. It appeared as though the oil was not able to handle the enviroment in the large thumper. The piston picked up the bore and the big end bearing grabbed. The KTM had a larger oil capacity than the berg engine and it failed with the shell, so i would never trust it in a berg engine.

I have 3 litres of BelRay Thumper oil left, i will probably then switch to the shell rotella or dello oil. The BelRay seems to be lasting better than the motul i was using, but at $57 for 4 litres it gets a bit expensive to replace at short intervals
 
When buying Shell Advance on a 20 liter "can" you can get away with a pricing about $55 per 4 liter, here in Sweden. One liter bottles costs about $25 from the local gas station... There is no big market for an oil specially suited for high revving, high tuned thumpers. You can go for an oil with good (don't know the correct english term) strength and "stickyness" to spare the gearbox. Then you need to take care of the wet clutch. I would assume that thumpers cylinder/piston/bearings and cam have the same requirements as any Superbike application, but I'm not an expert. What are our european supermoto friends using?
 
excuse my ignorance but isn't delo 400 a truck oil please correct me if I'm wrong
. as for mobile try the mobile1 V twin syn its 20/50 grade and mets jaso not sure if delo mets that requirement
feed back welcome :?:
 
I have been running Castrol RX Super (roughly the equivalent of delo 400) for quite a while now (50+ hrs)without splitting the engine and no lube related problems at all.
From what I read here it dont seem to matter too much what oil (within reason) you run, many of the guys running supposedly the "BEST" oils have early failures. I think too much is blamed on the oil when the failure causes may be related to other factors.
just my 2c worth.
 
Are you guys talking synthetic or semi-sinthetic?
Bel-Ray are cheap in Eyrope, Carefur Stores sell it
 
I am using Motul 15w-50 300v factory double ester oil, supposed to be good and not that pricy for €50 for 4 litre
 
In chronological order:

- Motorex Power Synt 4T 10W-50 and 10W-60 (full synthetic)
- IPONE Full Power Katana 10W-50 (100% synthetic)
- Mobil 1 Racing 4T 15W-50 (full synthetic)

..and now: ELF Moto 4 XT Tech 10W-50 (100% synthetic)

+ I'm useful sometimes Motor-Life. http://www.motorlife.hu/eng_leirasok/uk-ml-catalog.pdf

All oils are very good!
The 15W-50 viscosity is very hard under 10Celsius. :idea:

FYI: 943 hrs in my H-berg ! It's 6 years old.
(It's now on a full renovation.)
 
oTo

Yup! I agree with your statement about 15W -** being hard at cooler temps - I firmly believe it was the cause of premature failure of my e-start torque limiter.

I do not think this issue is well covered in the current owner's documentation.

I will be running 5W-** or 10W -** from now on.

Cheers

Mark
 
matt69 said:
excuse my ignorance but isn't delo 400 a truck oil please correct me if I'm wrong
. as for mobile try the mobile1 V twin syn its 20/50 grade and mets jaso not sure if delo mets that requirement
feed back welcome :?:
Click to expand...

DELO= diesel engine lubricating oil
 

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