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Which bike should I work on first?

Which bike would you fix first?

  • Noisy 650

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    2
Joined Jun 2011
564 Posts | 121+
Northern California
2005 FE650e currently in SM trim 90 hours

The other day I switched rocker arms as the intake bearing was sloppy. I used rockers from the engine im not using at this time. Adjusted valves and ran it a bit then changed the oil.

Noticed a little timing chain noise, so checked the tensioner. Only has 3 clicks left. I pushed it one click further before replacing the spring and screw. The noise was still there, but figured it was ok.

Used motul 300v, but that's irrelevant or maybe not? Got all geared up the next day for an long ride and after a 15 mile ride and fueling up, when I started it I could hear a racket coming from the front of the engine. Ride cancelled and babied it home.

Dumped the oil and found a some shiny specs on the screen, and a fair amount of fuzz on the plug magnet. It was very small bits, no long slivers at all.
There was only one hour at the most on the oil, and when I changed it last time, at a 10 hour interval there was very little metal on the plug.

Motul 300V after settling a couple days.

969BBE05-2856-44DE-B62F-7E600DB9C581-1459-00000460C43A4463.jpg


I'm hoping it's a worn timing chain slapping around and nothing more.


Bike two, FE550 with rekluse 220 hours.
Poor thing, I was DS/trail riding a couple weeks ago and lost all the coolant. It went unnoticed of course and I rode it for a while bone dry. The lower hose to the wp had a tear in it. My bike attacked a shrub about an hour before and may have been what tore the hose.

I cut it and reattached it then filled it about half way. Was all the water the two of us had. I coaxed it down the trail untill we finally found a creek. I made it home, but it lost the water many times on the way home. Every 5 miles or so, I'd stop and let it cool and refill it. Couldn't see any leakage, and figured it was boiling away.

Anyway, a few days later new oil and coolant (not contaminated) and rode it for 3 miles to see what the deal was.
Not really any significant loss of power. I dunno, it's hard to tell.
Head gasket is leaking in the front, by the left header.

It was run dry for an hour, then made it 40 miles home with a failed HG. FWIW, it gets Rotella T dino oil as Rekluse reccomends. It has always been a very quiet engine. It purrs, it's so quiet it sounds like a japanese 125 at idle.

I've a box showing up this week with new valve springs, valve seals, cam follower bearings, timing chain, head gasket, waterpump seal, and FC hoses (no t-stat).

Which one would you fix first?
 
if you already got parts coming in for the 550 i would be leaning toward that, you were already planning on this head gasket repair? or it got that bad after overheating? if you knew the 650 was just a timing chain then id go for it but there is a lot of unknown there still....if you drive the 550 and seems cool and have parts for it id give it my vote.

but...if the 550 is the dirtbike and the 650 is the road bike and it being winter i may be swayed to fixing whichever is the dirtbike first to ride in winter unless you live in an area and can ride on the road in the winter depending on your climate.

maybe look into 650 a little further and determine which one is the most severe and then do the easier one first to get back riding then take your time on the other one?

if they are both eeffed'up do your favorite one first....
 
Thanks for voting, here's some chickens for your pots as promised. :animalchicken: :animalchicken:
:animalchicken: :animalchicken:
:animalchicken: :animalchicken:

It's 6 to 1, I'm the only one who voted for the 650. I just want to know if the new bike is going to be ok.
 
The 550 is nearly buttoned up. It smelled like burnt dookie when I opened it up.



I punched the pins myself on the CFB's I think I did it right.

F4BC79DE-F43C-41AA-897F-51AE2218B287-501-000001D0854025EE.jpg


Dual valve springs

B765C734-23E6-4679-8214-F04549C10E62-501-00000238953B99C9.jpg
 

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