Weep hole leak repair

If the cover has never been off, you may be able to re-use the large cover gasket. The small pump casing gasket can be re-used. I would recommend replacing the waterpump seal, the special ball bearing that is mounted in the cover and the shaft oring. Grease the inside of the waterpump seal on reassembly. Use a tiny bit of good sealer on the OD of the waterpump seal when it is pressed in.
If you are certain it is only oil coming from the weephole, this can be from the oring or the bearing seal. Be sure to carefully tape up the kickstart and shift shafts to protect the seals from damage before you pull the cover. Hold the kickstarter shaft down in place when handling the cover. If the kickstarter shaft lifts up, the spring will rotate it and the pawl will dislodge. You will not get the cover seated unless the kickstart shaft is correct. You should see about a 2mm gap between the clutch basket and kickstarter gear when the kickstarter shaft is properly seated.
Remove the WP seal by knocking it out from the back side with a smooth punch. Then press out the bearing. Press in the new bearing, turn the cover over and press in new WP seal. The spring in the WP seal faces the outside of the bike and the seal sits flush to the cover.
Tape the waterpump shaft to just past the round cross pin hole. This will guarantee the seal will survive installation. It is good policy to replace the waterpump seal every time the cover is removed because you can't easily protect it when it crosses the pin hole as the cover is removed. The factory installation sleeve only protects the seal from the snap ring groove.
I have only replaced waterpump seals; the bearing and oring have been fine so far.

I little oil leaking from the weep hole is normal. No need to repair.

A lot of oil or coolant leaking from the weep hole is another story.

Re: RE: Weep hole leak repair

Just rebuilt my engine was very precarious when fitting the bearing and the O ring an pump seal, mine leaked slightly straight away but nothing to worry about, is it coming from the seal or the O ring.I noticed the new bearing that came with the seal is a KTM part so how does this far on the KTM or does the KTM not have a weep hole.
I wonder how many Bergs are actually out there where the weep hole is completely dry.

Regards

Sparks.

RE: Re: RE: Weep hole leak repair

Having dealt with this issue on my berg, it seems to be a design issue on the w/p bearing retention. My seal/bearing combo would drift from the fully seated position. I believe this is the idea behind ORANGEBERG's repair kit. I red-loctited the bearing to the cover. My leaks have vanished since. The beaing fit loosely in the cover by "press-fit" standards. If it re-occurs, I will buy OB's repair kit.
jz

Re: RE: Re: RE: Weep hole leak repair

jzfe said:

Having dealt with this issue on my berg, it seems to be a design issue on the w/p bearing retention. My seal/bearing combo would drift from the fully seated position. I believe this is the idea behind ORANGEBERG's repair kit. I red-loctited the bearing to the cover. My leaks have vanished since. The beaing fit loosely in the cover by "press-fit" standards. If it re-occurs, I will buy OB's repair kit.
jz

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red loctite is heavy duty stuff , be prepared for a challenge when you need to remove the bearing .

RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Weep hole leak repair

Interesting point about the bearing fit. Many bikes may be a slight press fit and don't leak. Some may be a free fit and leak. To remove red loctite use a heat gun and warm the case to 325 F degrees. This will loosen the bond and the bearing can be removed.

Petorius,

I had the same problem with my FE 550 soon after I had brought it and run it in, you may like to try what worked for me, I followed the advice of the learned members of this site, which was backed up by my dealer, the advice was to make sure that the oil level was just showing in the botom of the sight glass, being about 750 - 800ml of oil instead of 1L (even with new filter).

the result - no weep whatsoever, and since lowering the level of the oil, have not boiled the cooling system - happened twice before.

may be worthy of a try, I was advised that the same advice was given out to all HBG dealers during 2005.

Azza.

Petorius,
Just to clarify, tiny bit of sealer on the outside of the WP seal, grease on the bore of the seal before assembly. The shaft Oring should have some grease or oil on it. Loctite 243 should be fine on the bearing OD, note that 243 is a regular thread locker that must cure before exposing it to oil. There are other grades that will cure even if exposed to oil; check with your local Loctite supplier. The product I like for the outside of the WP seal is Loctite's 515 "gasket eliminater". I think it is a very good idea to use something on the OD of the bearing, since even a slight press could become a slip fit when the case warms up in operation.

I don't agree with running a lower oil level once sealer/Loctite has been used for the repair. The lower oil level may benefit the stock setup when the bearing fit is loose, but should not be necessary after a repair.

Re: RE: Weep hole leak repair

sparks said:

Just rebuilt my engine was very precarious when fitting the bearing and the O ring an pump seal, mine leaked slightly straight away but nothing to worry about, is it coming from the seal or the O ring.I noticed the new bearing that came with the seal is a KTM part so how does this far on the KTM or does the KTM not have a weep hole.
I wonder how many Bergs are actually out there where the weep hole is completely dry.

Regards

Sparks.

Click to expand...

An update on my what was a leaking weep hole. Went out for a ride today about 50 miles, the engine has now done about 400 miles since complete rebuild and on each occasion when I took it for a spin there would be an oil run from the weep hole but today on my return I was quit surprised to see that it was completely dry, I think somebody else had this phenomena where there weephole suddenly stopped leaking oil.
The oil level hasn't changed just above half way up the glass when the engine is hot.

Regards

Sparks.

Re: RE: Weep hole leak repair

sparks said:

Just rebuilt my engine was very precarious when fitting the bearing and the O ring an pump seal, mine leaked slightly straight away but nothing to worry about, is it coming from the seal or the O ring.I noticed the new bearing that came with the seal is a KTM part so how does this far on the KTM or does the KTM not have a weep hole.
I wonder how many Bergs are actually out there where the weep hole is completely dry.

Regards

Sparks.

Click to expand...

An update on my what was a leaking weep hole. Went out for a ride today about 50 miles, the engine has now done about 400 miles since complete rebuild and on each occasion when I took it for a spin there would be an oil run from the weep hole but today on my return I was quit surprised to see that it was completely dry, I think somebody else had this phenomena where there weephole suddenly stopped leaking oil.
The oil level hasn't changed just above half way up the glass when the engine is hot.

Regards

Sparks.

Re: RE: Weep hole leak repair

quote]
An update on my what was a leaking weep hole. Went out for a ride today about 50 miles, the engine has now done about 400 miles since complete rebuild and on each occasion when I took it for a spin there would be an oil run from the weep hole but today on my return I was quit surprised to see that it was completely dry, I think somebody else had this phenomena where there weephole suddenly stopped leaking oil.
The oil level hasn't changed just above half way up the glass when the engine is hot.

Regards

Sparks.[/quote]

Yup! That's what mine did but I think it did in response to dropping the oil level down to the bottom of the site glass when cold (from mid height).

I have the Orangeberg kit in hand just in case....

Mark

Petorius said:

I think i have read most of the topics on this subject but just wanted to make sure i was on the right track. I have oil leaking from the weep hole on the water pump housing. If i am correct this is due to failure of the 'O' ring on the water pump shaft? I have read about oil level being very important to prevent excessive crankcase pressure and the level is fine. Having only had the bike for to weeks i didn't really want to be pulling it to bits already but is very annoying and i guess it needs to be done. As far as parts go am i right in thinking all i should need are water pump shaft 'O' ring, water duct 'O' ring and water pump gasket?

Thanks, Mark

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I your problem leak persists email me at : [email protected] and i will hook you up with a repair kit.
ORANGEBERG