i have some coolant leaking from the weephole on my 98 fe600e does this indicate that my seals are bad? is a few drips normal? I know that on older chevy waterpumps the weephole leaking was a warning that the pump was failing...
It may be that the seal is wearing out. Before you replace it you might try a different coolant. My Honda VFR had a weeping water pump seal that cleared when I drained the Havoline anti-freeze and replaced it with distilled water and Neo Keep Cool which is similar to WaterWetter.
The Keep Cool has much better seal-swell chemistry than the Havoline.
The Keep Cool has much better seal-swell chemistry than the Havoline.
min
Its a pitty all the posts got wiped out as we just covered this topic?? My Berg does it to.
Ask Dale L
Its a pitty all the posts got wiped out as we just covered this topic?? My Berg does it to.
Ask Dale L
Okay, i need some help. I want to make sure i am doing this right, as mistakes can be costly. I need to replace the inner seals on the water pump. i guess they want bad after the impeller disintegrated. my questions is this; do i need to remove the valve cover to do this? it look as if removing the cover is pretty straight forward. I have the shop manual but it does not specifically address seal replacement.
thanks
jared
thanks
jared
Min
I do not reply to questions I dont know the answer to, but my Berg also leaks a little from the weep hole, and when I get around to doing it I wont be removing the valve cover, I cant see the reason to. I suppose someone is going to tell me different?
As I have only just replaced the clutch cover gasket after repairing the gear selection issue, ( and then the "gear line up thing") I really dont feel like going thru it all again.
Dale Lineweaver ( a member here) is the expert on this problem.
Keep us informed on how you get on?
I do not reply to questions I dont know the answer to, but my Berg also leaks a little from the weep hole, and when I get around to doing it I wont be removing the valve cover, I cant see the reason to. I suppose someone is going to tell me different?
As I have only just replaced the clutch cover gasket after repairing the gear selection issue, ( and then the "gear line up thing") I really dont feel like going thru it all again.
Dale Lineweaver ( a member here) is the expert on this problem.
Keep us informed on how you get on?
Re: Min
I also don't know the answer to Minnija's question but thought I would clarify for Scully and others that regarding pre 2001 motors, the water pump is turned via camshaft unlike later models which are run by the crankshaft. That is why Minnija2 is asking about pulling the valve cover on his '98 model.
Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
Log
Scully said:
I also don't know the answer to Minnija's question but thought I would clarify for Scully and others that regarding pre 2001 motors, the water pump is turned via camshaft unlike later models which are run by the crankshaft. That is why Minnija2 is asking about pulling the valve cover on his '98 model.
Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
Log
Joined Jun 2001
1K Posts | 0+
Pasadena Ca.
Hi Jared,
yes you need to remove the valve cover. The seal spool has 2 0-rings that seal the spool to the head and the valve cover, and 2 internal seals that seal the spool to the cam shaft. You need to replace the internal seals.
Once you have the cam out, the water impeller off and the impeller drive pin removed you can pull the seal spool off of the cam shaft just using your fingers. It only fits on properly one way, so check the location of the small flange on the OD of the spool before removing it from the cam, it fits into mating grooves in the head and the valve cover.
Press out the internal seals (I use a small socket). press the new seals back in. Make sure you orient the seals correctly, look at the old ones before pushing them out.
I would replace the cam bearings also. They are cheap to buy at your local bearing house, I pay $8.25 each for Fafnir 201PP sealed bearings, I relube them with a high temp silicone wheel brg grease before I use them.
I lube the seal lips on the seal spool seals with this grease also.
I wrap a couple layers of cellophane tape around the cam shaft where the pin hole is for the impeller to protect the seals while you are reassembling the seal spool back onto the shaft.
There are some tricky steps in getting the cam out and them putting everything back together. Read the shop manual very carefully and ask us any questions you might have.
I have to remove the exhaust system including the head pipes to get to my chain tensioner. The tensioner needs to be removed prior to removing the cam chain master link.
Joe
yes you need to remove the valve cover. The seal spool has 2 0-rings that seal the spool to the head and the valve cover, and 2 internal seals that seal the spool to the cam shaft. You need to replace the internal seals.
Once you have the cam out, the water impeller off and the impeller drive pin removed you can pull the seal spool off of the cam shaft just using your fingers. It only fits on properly one way, so check the location of the small flange on the OD of the spool before removing it from the cam, it fits into mating grooves in the head and the valve cover.
Press out the internal seals (I use a small socket). press the new seals back in. Make sure you orient the seals correctly, look at the old ones before pushing them out.
I would replace the cam bearings also. They are cheap to buy at your local bearing house, I pay $8.25 each for Fafnir 201PP sealed bearings, I relube them with a high temp silicone wheel brg grease before I use them.
I lube the seal lips on the seal spool seals with this grease also.
I wrap a couple layers of cellophane tape around the cam shaft where the pin hole is for the impeller to protect the seals while you are reassembling the seal spool back onto the shaft.
There are some tricky steps in getting the cam out and them putting everything back together. Read the shop manual very carefully and ask us any questions you might have.
I have to remove the exhaust system including the head pipes to get to my chain tensioner. The tensioner needs to be removed prior to removing the cam chain master link.
Joe
Joined Mar 2003
582 Posts | 2+
Waterbury, Connecticut, USA
Yes, I agree with Joe. You (might) by able to change them without removing the valve cover. The only way this might be done would be to remove the pin for the impeller (mine is in there tight, thus requiring removal of the valve cover).
Otherwise, the seals should be installed with the spring side facing out. If you don't do this, you will have a leaking problem. The spring side should be on the pressure side, allowing the pressure to get into the (cavity) of the seal, press down on the spring and seal against the shaft. Another way to make this clear would be: the two seals, mated against one another, (if one were to take a cross section of the two seals mated, would look like an uppercase "H"). Otherwise a straightforward fix. I thought I had the seal numbers (like an SKF or Timken number) here when I started writing, but I was wrong... The number should be on the face of the seal itself. This will allow you to go down to local industrial supply or auto parts store today, and be riding tomorrow. Good idea to replace the O-rings while you are at it, they cost like 30 cents each.
Hey Joe, you use sealed bearings on your cam?? Is this OEM?
Otherwise, the seals should be installed with the spring side facing out. If you don't do this, you will have a leaking problem. The spring side should be on the pressure side, allowing the pressure to get into the (cavity) of the seal, press down on the spring and seal against the shaft. Another way to make this clear would be: the two seals, mated against one another, (if one were to take a cross section of the two seals mated, would look like an uppercase "H"). Otherwise a straightforward fix. I thought I had the seal numbers (like an SKF or Timken number) here when I started writing, but I was wrong... The number should be on the face of the seal itself. This will allow you to go down to local industrial supply or auto parts store today, and be riding tomorrow. Good idea to replace the O-rings while you are at it, they cost like 30 cents each.
Hey Joe, you use sealed bearings on your cam?? Is this OEM?
Joined Jun 2001
1K Posts | 0+
Pasadena Ca.
Parsko said:
No. OEM do not have seals. KTM copied this part of Husaberg's engine and had trouble with early cam bearing failure, 1st thought to be caused by metal in the oil so KTM went to sealed brgs. I had my Berg down for cam follower roller brg changeout at that time so decided I would go sealed. I later read that KTM finally blamed the failures on a bad batch of bearings.
I've seen pictures of KTM's with fragged cam brgs though and feel that its worth it to me to use sealed brgs and just change them when I have to change the cam follower roller brgs. When removed, they are still well greased, and very smooth and no sign of wear.
Joe
Hi new too this also.I just pulled the two seals and o rings for the water pump.I have a couple of questions so i figured i'd put them in here.
1.Can you get these seals and o-rings from a bearing warehouse or are they special too husaberg.
2.There was no gasket under the valve cover is this normal if so whats the best type of sealant too reseal this area.
3.While i have the head off i was thinking of changing the cam bearings and cam follower rollers.I saw the part number for the cam bearings.Can you get the roller bearing for the followers at a bearing warehouse or only from dealer.
Thanks dan.
1.Can you get these seals and o-rings from a bearing warehouse or are they special too husaberg.
2.There was no gasket under the valve cover is this normal if so whats the best type of sealant too reseal this area.
3.While i have the head off i was thinking of changing the cam bearings and cam follower rollers.I saw the part number for the cam bearings.Can you get the roller bearing for the followers at a bearing warehouse or only from dealer.
Thanks dan.
Joined Jun 2001
1K Posts | 0+
Pasadena Ca.
Bigdan said:
Yes, some bearing houses carry a good line of o-rings and seals, so you might get lucky. I have yet to replace the o-rings, because they have never been cut or nicked, and only have replaced the seals once on my Berg (8696 miles, 315 hours) and I have had the cover off and the cam out many times. The key IMHO is to make sure the cam brgs are replaced prior to wearing out and when removing the seal spool from the cam to tape the holes in the cam shaft to keep the seals from being cut.
I use 'ThreeBond 1211 Silicone Liquid Gasket between the head and the cam cover. Its very important to follow the instructions on the package. I have never had a leak there even though I have had the cover off at least a dozen times. Make sure you properly torque the cover screws also, and set the end play of the rocker arms to 0.05 + 0.05 - 0.00 mm per page 22 of the 1999 Workshop Manual while torquing the cover screws.
Let us know if you have any questions on this....
Joe
Well The Berg is back together and started with one push of the magic button. yeahhhh! all new hoses, wires/connectors and lights and cables, dont get me wrong, it was not all wine and roses, I had some problems such as, a valve cover bolt being so tight that the alan head stripped, heating it did not help, i drilled with a drill bit and tried an easy-out and that broke :x , end result was i was unable to remove the valve cover, one of the bolts is hollow and has the broken tip of an easy-out in it. hope it holds for a while. (hey and when it fails it'll be that much easier to get out right :roll: ) luckily the rocker arms and bearings were replaced just prior to my purchase. so hopefully i wont need to have it off for at least the summer....
Anyway, i did something that might make you mechanics cringe but I really had no other choice unless i was to take the engine out and take it some where to get it fixed. I was able to remove the impeller, the shaft pin, and the outer water pump seal and replace it with a new one (spring side out) without removing the valve cover. I rode it for about an hour and no leaks from the weep hole yet. hope it works for a bit. I will change the oil again today and make sure there is no coolant in it (in case i damaged the inner water pump seal)
I was able to get the radiator welded up and it works great, dosent look so pretty, but hell the rest of the bike dosent either, at least until I get the new (to me) plastic I bought from someone through the use of the classifieds here on UHE.
Thnaks for the input
Jared
Anyway, i did something that might make you mechanics cringe but I really had no other choice unless i was to take the engine out and take it some where to get it fixed. I was able to remove the impeller, the shaft pin, and the outer water pump seal and replace it with a new one (spring side out) without removing the valve cover. I rode it for about an hour and no leaks from the weep hole yet. hope it works for a bit. I will change the oil again today and make sure there is no coolant in it (in case i damaged the inner water pump seal)
I was able to get the radiator welded up and it works great, dosent look so pretty, but hell the rest of the bike dosent either, at least until I get the new (to me) plastic I bought from someone through the use of the classifieds here on UHE.
Thnaks for the input
Jared
Joined Jun 2001
1K Posts | 0+
Pasadena Ca.
Minnija2 said:
I also had one strip out so I drilled through the bolt with a drill the same diameter as the shank of the bolt. The bolt head came off with the drill bit. After removing the cover, I was able to remove the rest of the bolt with my fingers. I replaced all of my head cover bolts.
Joe
Similar threads
Register CTA
Register on Husaberg Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.
Sign Up
