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Vibration isolators?

Joined Dec 2011
45 Posts | 0+
Victoria BC Canada
So after riding my new FE450 for 5 minutes my carpal tunnel kicked in so i need to knock as much vibration out of the bars as possible.

Which is the best route? just some rubber mounted bars? new bars? both? the KTM PHDS? all the above?
 
Fasst Company makes handleabr anti-vibration inserts:
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/2/ ... =SLIsearch

You might also consider an aftermarket grip. I settled on Pro Taper Pillow Top grips for a couple of reasons. First, they're a little larger in diameter than the normal grip. Second, the texture and composition of the grip surface is virtually efforless to hang onto. Those two characteristics ought to be quite helpful to you, as considerably less effort is requried of the hand.
 
I have Pro Grip rally grips. Almost no vibration at all. They are longer than most grips, which is a nice for my big hands.(xxl gloves) I cut a short piece of my old throttle tube and superglued it to the new tube, before gluing the grips on. They are about 1/2" longer than most other grips. I got them at MPC KTM.

823ed337.jpg
 
I haven't had issues with CT but struggled with tendinitis of both arms a few years ago.

Even had problems when running Faast Flex bars.
The best hardware I installed was a pair of Stegg Pegs or Leg Pegs. I added both brands to different bikes.
They worked wonders to lessen the energy used by my arms to hold my position on the bike.

Those bikes were KTM's.

Having just purchased a new FE 390 I wanted to add the same items.
Looking at the Berg I see the subframe bolts are nearly the correct position to add a rubber 'bumper' of sorts that will function like the Stegg and Leg pegs.

I'll post a pic tomorrow of what I added. Total cost ... 10 bucks. Function... nearly identical.
 
Ruger said:
Fasst Company makes handleabr anti-vibration inserts:
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/2/ ... =SLIsearch

You might also consider an aftermarket grip. I settled on Pro Taper Pillow Top grips for a couple of reasons. First, they're a little larger in diameter than the normal grip. Second, the texture and composition of the grip surface is virtually efforless to hang onto. Those two characteristics ought to be quite helpful to you, as considerably less effort is requried of the hand.

both cheap too...will order some up. :rock:
 
You may also want to adjust the way you grip the bars.
If you don't already, keep your elbows up.
Don't overgrip.
Use your leg as much as possible to grip the bike.
 
Here is my version of Stegg / Legg pegz.

Pic 1 is of Steg's on my KTM 200

KTM.jpg



Pic 2 are Leg's on my previous '11 250 XC

Leg.jpg



Pic 3 is my home made version on a '11 FE390

Berg.jpg



Pic 4 is of the items used.
Longer bolt w/washer
Rubber stopper with tubing sleeve to prevent crushing while torqing the bolt.
The ergos of the FE worked very well in allowing these to be attached.
The stoppers are cheep and available in different sizes.

Steg1.jpg
 
Odonnks, I don't get it. What do they do, and what do you do with those things?
 
I was originally skeptical but wanted to solve my arm issues.
They were both developed in Australia for off road desert racing where the rider stands for hours per race.

I tried Faast Flex bars
Boysen's Flex Grip.

Both worked to an extent but once I understood what was happening I added the Stegg / Legg products and adjusted my body mechanics (remembering to keep my elbows up) I did away with the Flex bars and Flex grip.

Now running standard bars, going for a hard core 6 hr off road ride has no effects on my arms.
In the standing position they connect you to the bike like never before.

Different people may like the puck in more forward or rear positions. Easy enough with my home made ones. At $3.00 per pair drill them at an offset.

The Legg and Steg brands can be adjusted but once you have them in the sweet spot you'll never move them again.


In the seated position they are un-obtrusive.
When you stand the inside of your boot contacts the bike at the 'puck'
This gives the rider the ability to control the bike with the lower body (waist down) and conserve arm /wrist / hand muscles.

I've had them for a few years and they really do work.
Below are a few links I could quickly find.


http://www.dirtrider.com/drtested/141_1 ... index.html

http://www.dirtbikemagazine.com/ME2/dir ... E403C2DEBF

http://www.stegpegz.com.au/
 
Went for a 2 hour ride this morning. Almost all single track but I did do about 15km of high speed logging road.

I put all the clickers to the manuals comfort settings and that made a world of difference in the front end plushness.

Only stopped a couple times to ease some discomfort in my hands (and bladder :lol: )

It was -2C as well. Brisk but no puddles, just ice.

Really happy how the bike hooked up. One I get the springs changed out for my extra gravity things should be stellar :p
 
Odonnks, where do you get the rubber stoppers for this project, and how on earth is that heat shield bolted on? Youve got some good ideas going there, sir!
 
Ah, I see. Looks like a "recessed bumper" is the right kind of thing. I'll see if Lowe's has something like that tomorrow. Thanks for the heat shield explanation, too!

Lowe's had rubber stoppers. It's a multi-step process to drill them out and then fashion an inside "step" in the hole (smaller diameter for a sleve, larger diameter for a washer), but it worked out fine. Had to replace factory metric screws with longer metric allen head cap screws. Would have gone with stainless steel, but Lowe's doesn't carry stainless steel metric fasteners at all. Screws are M8-1.25 x 40. Also requires a couple washers (roughly 7/8 outside diameter) to stack under the rubber bumper. Total cost of project = $9.77.

Really cool tip. Thank you, sir!
 
i think its the 'micro tears' that cause the problem not vibration primarily
i have a bad left wrist [i keeps ordering beers at the bar] and here's what i did;
bike;
1-flexx bars
2-scotts dampner [use hi speed circuit only]
3-boyseen shok-out for clutch side grip
4-scotts pillow top, full waffle
5-tubliss in front with pirelli mt43 trials, 7.5psi on rocks w/ no problems

me;
1-wrap wrist with white athlete tape
2-dont work out [burp the worm] the night before riding [righty but that works the mouse]
3-after riding use ice to reduce swelling [grab a beer while you are at the refrig]

this is great for me.
 
Tuts,
I agree that micro tears will be part of the problem and have had similar problems.

But... the rubber bumper I added to imitate the Leg / Stegg pegs will help reduce energy expelled through the arms and wrists by allowing you to use the more developed lower body muscles to grip the bike.

I've gone through all 5 of the items you listed and found these work the best.
Though I did keep the Tubliss, love those things.
 
well long term update

had a neurologist appt. today and looks like i'll be going under the knife in a few months for at least my left wrist, if not both.

i have worked hard at loosing my grip and stuff, but long road or gravel road rides kill after 15 min.

on trails i can last a lot longer without discomfort, but we usually end up riding half to 2 thirds the time we are out so it gives the wrists a break.

i have also lost about 20% of the grip stength in my left hand so no sense putting it off.

almost 40 hours on the bike now, mostly tight single and dual track stuff, other then being a little hefty to pick up and move when not under power i'm really liking the bike.
 

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