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VAPOR LOCK: THE FINAL SOLUTION!

Joined Oct 2010
13 Posts | 0+
ITALY
Hi all,
after asking, searching Everywhere, I've found the FINAL SOLUTION for the VAPOR LOCK ISSUE affecting many HUSBY lovers....
you need to check the gap of the pick-up of the start (accensione in Italian)
if this pick-up gap is not well regulated the engine stops and has incredible difficulties in firing up.

The solution has been suggested and discovered by a mechanic that follows a rallye team here in Italy and proven 100% successful.!!! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
 
Hi. Thanks for the advice. Could you try to explain what you mean again? I don't understand what gap you're referring to. Maybe post a picture from the manual if that makes it easier.

Thanks for your time. Hopefully you've discovered something.
 
I am not an expert at all in the technical field...
they explained me that in the start there's a Pick-up that has to have a certain gap...when the measure of this gap is not as the dealer's manual tells the bike when's hot sometimes doesn't fire up untill it cools down.
 
Thanks for the advice. Would it be easier to describe the situation in Italian Pongo? Feel free and I'll have my co-worker translate for the board.

Cheers.
 
nsman said:
Most probably the pulser coil to flywheel air gap.
probably that's the one...
the distance (gap) between the pick-up and the flywheel has to be the one of the "dealer manual" ..if the gap is not the correct one...and after many hours of use that may well be the case....especially when the bike is hot, it doesn't fire up.
I've completely solved the problem...without wrapping the pipe or the tank etc etc

Bear in mind that the "user manual" doesn't mention this...so it has to be taken to the dealer...and he should know what the gap should be!
hope that helped...
:mrgreen:
 
I hope you are right, but how does that explain the common situation where a rider restarts the bike with indication of a problem yet, the bike runs 10 seconds, sputters and then dies. Then, it will not restart unless you wait for it to cool down a while.

The previous theory is that there is enough residual fuel pressure that the bike can start without the fuel pump, but the fuel pressure goes away after a very short time when the engine fires.
 
What he is describing may be yet another problem with some bikes. I know in my case that when mine got real hot and I shut it off it would start back up just fine but only run for a few seconds and then die like it ran out of gas. Then it wouldn't start again until it cooled down. My symptoms don't sound like the "gap" issue. I recently changed my pump to the ca-cycleworks version so I will see if that solved my problem.
 
It may well be that ounce the gap is not as it should be...the bike may well work not as it should do...therefore one of the symptoms may well work for few seconds and then off until it cools down....
as i said i am not a technician, but i really trust my mechanic whic is considered a real Husby Guru
 
I'm certainly not questioning what your mechanic found and only time will tell if changing the fuel pump on mine solved the problem I have. If the new pump does not solve my issue then I have another avenue to explore which I am glad to have. Changing the pump was something I could do myself, setting this gap sounds more difficult and without further instructions would mean dealer involvement which I would like to avoid if possible.
 
i have a problem where my fe390 will stall/cough at low rpm's once hot.....my dealer is trying to troubleshoot this week. I think mexmex over at ktmtalk mentioned to me a while back about problems with what he called a sensor, but in the parts manual it is shown as "pulser coil"

HVo.jpg


the thread is here:

http://ktmtalk.com/index.php?showtopic= ... try3660643
 
I *trashed* my pulsar pickup coil on my '06 KTM 450 once.

I typically pulled the ignition cover to check the position of the pickup and the magnet on the flywheel to help find TDC. But while re-installing the ignition cover once ... the magnetized flywheel *pulled* out one of the stainless steel, cover alignment dowels ... and stuck it to the flywheel. It bounced around in there for an entire ride before finally getting stuck between the pulsar pickup and a hard spot --- which totally franged the pickup and tore up some wires on the stator -- which required replacing both items. Ow.

I tell you this because ... when I reinstalled the stator and pickup ... there were just bolt-in items. There was no gap adjustment.

I do have the CD-ROM repair manual for the FE 390. I'll try to take a look later today and see if I can spot any gap adjustment procedure -- or if it is still just a bolt-in process.

Cheers, E-Ticket
 
the magnetized flywheel *pulled* out one of the stainless steel, cover alignment dowels ... and stuck it to the flywheel. :oops:

The last time I checked... Stainless Steel was a non-ferrous metal. (not magnetic) How did a magnet "pull" a non magnetic material out of anything?
 
There is no adjustment, had your mechanic been on the Vino before he worked on your bike? :drinking: :lol:


- Position the crankshaft position sensor.
- Mount and tighten screws (1).

Guideline
Screw, crankshaft position sensor - M5 - 6 Nm (4.4 lbf ft) - Loctite®243™

- Position the cable and insert the cable support sleeve into the engine case.

CrankSensorPicture.jpg
 
blumpkin said:
the magnetized flywheel *pulled* out one of the stainless steel, cover alignment dowels ... and stuck it to the flywheel. :oops:

The last time I checked... Stainless Steel was a non-ferrous metal. (not magnetic) How did a magnet "pull" a non magnetic material out of anything?
Then that would make it a steel dowel .... 'cause it got stuck on de ignition rotor. <g>

I made the assumption it was SS because it was so hard and shiny. "Ooohh... shiny!!"

Cheers! E-Ticket
 

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