Valves adjustment screw turns endlessly

Something bizarre when I try to adjust the valves. I have it at TDC, on the compression stroke. I know because I watched the valves go up and down and also there is no slack in the decomp cable.

Adjusting the intake valves was easy. Did the 1/3 turn out.

But the exhaust valves, for some reason, I can turn them in all the way, they will not stop turning.

Hmmm what am I missing here?

I also tried the "other" TDC, just to make sure, it's even worse.

Yes, Taffy, I had something in there to make sure I was at TDC and also I have a good trusted mark.

I mistyped, I did 1/6 of a turn, not 1/3.

I just got a feeler gauge. I think I will open the rocker cover after my next ride, I need to ride tomorrow.

BUt now I realize that really the screws should not be blocked by anything, the 1/6 turn out is given as soon as a slight resistance is felt, when it's the spring you're tightening, am I right?

I am not a mechanic, I am just learning it.

Thanks!

Sorry, the guy was a bit confused and already did it right once before (before the AZ meet ride).

Confused, because when I did the intake valves first, there was a much firmer resistance, which I was looking for when I did the exhaust valves. I then thought about the mechanical parts behind the screw and it all became clearer in my mind.

Anyway, while slaving with too long a 10 mm wrench and and tool long (and too wide) a screwdriver, I decided to create my own tools by sacrificing the 10 mm wrench and an electrical screwdriver.

I used the Dremel to cut the wrench and also add a march at every 12th of a turn. I also ground the top to give a better grip for the thumb.

The Allen wrench, I already cut to allow removing the inspection cover without removing the radiator last year. It does work but is a pain to use, since you can only give 1/2 of a turn each time. Slightly less than it is a pain to remove the radiator (well, at least you don't lose coolant).

The cut electrical screwdriver, I found out that holding it by the smooth area is better to find the point of resistance (when your fingers lose their grip, you found it), while the grip area is better for when holding the screw in place.

The feeler gauge is the justice of the peace, always a pain to use but if you can't at least fit it under the tappet, then you've got to adjust your methodology.

Listening, no, reading, yes.

:rofl:

Ok, guys, let's make it 1/7th.