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Valve setting, quick question for decomp lever

L

LadyBerg

Joined Dec 2009
274 Posts | 21+
Skidaway Island GA
Hi Guys,

I'm going to set the valves on my new-to-me 2008 FE 450. I've done BMW adjustor type valves but never a dirt bike with a decompression lever. Do I disconnect the spring or lever prior to checking and adjusting exhaust valves? Then when valves set ok reconnect and adjust cable free play.

It's going to be fun getting to the exhaust valves but I don't feel like draining the rad...small hands will be an asset :D

Thanks in advance, LadyBerg (Colleen)
 
If you cut down the allen wrench a bit you will be able to unscrew the screw without touching the radiator.
It's still tight so small hands are a plus. :D


The suggestion above is ofcourse only valid if you use an L type allen wrench. With a T type it doesn't do you much good if you cut it... :bounce3:


Regards Nicklas
 
the manual decomp can stay but you must make sure that the bar is neither loose or tight and touching the rocker. that said and done you will be ok afterwards.

yep wish i had lil hands sometimes! just sent my blackberry curve 8520 back today as i couldb't stopo pressing 5 buttons at once!

regards

Taffy
 
I find it fairly easy to adjust valves without removing the rad. A regular allen key seems to get the exhaust valve cover off with a little dexterity. However valave adjustment is much easier if you use the 1/6 turn method rather than feeler guages. I won't describe it here, but if you search on valve adjustment you'll find lots of discussion of pro's, con's and technique.
One tip I find helpful is to back off both adjusters (exhaust or inlet depending on which you are doing at the time)then adjust one then the other. When you're done you should still be able to feel a tiny amount of clearance when you grip the rocker arm and move it up and down. If not, one or other is too tight.
 
Thanks everyone I'm off to the garage this afternoon! I think the 1/6 turn method is sweet and makes sense...who knows many they're fine.

Taffy, not quite sure what you meant but my quess is to not let the decomp cable interfere or bind when setting the exhaust side.
 
yes, just make sure the decomp cable is properly adjusted. Then you can forget about that and focus on the valves.
 
Loz16h,

I followed your suggestions (left radiator on, used 1/6 turn method, checked decomp lever) and I found the exhaust valves were easier to get at than the intakes due to the cables in way. As a BMW GS owner I'm used to using a feeler guage but couldn't get them in there so 1/6 it is.

The exhausts felt tighter than the intakes and the plug was dark tan/rich, and at 50 hours it was sometimes a bit hard to start cold on the button. After setting everything and replacing the spark plug she started up on the E button right away! :bounce3:

Thanks everyone, this forum is MAGIC :cheers:
 
Cool. They're a bit of a fiddle (compared with a GS but not a Ducati!). Bergs are quite sensitive to valve adjustment and and it is a common cause of poor starting.
Cheers
 
loz16h said:
Cool. They're a bit of a fiddle (compared with a GS but not a Ducati!). Bergs are quite sensitive to valve adjustment and and it is a common cause of poor starting.
Cheers
Click to expand...

That's because our tappet clearances are half those of KTM and yet we have the same valves, rocker ratios and cams. that means we sale 'closer to the wind' all the time.

ladyberg
the arm is a round bar with the lower half missing so that the CSA is 'half moon' and the flat side is underneath. this flat face hovers above the rocker arm and if the cable is too loose one corner would interfere and if the cable were to be too tight the other corner would.

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
That's because our tappet clearances are half those of KTM and yet we have the same valves, rocker ratios and cams. that means we sale 'closer to the wind' all the time.
Click to expand...

This is news to me, as the KTM RFS engines have had valve clearances specifications of 0.005" (0.12mm) for years now. Does this mean that Berg clearances are 0.0025"??
 
I've seen it written here, that some katooms were .25mm clearance.

regards

Taffy
 
I to will be ajusting my valves and my carb shortly. I was going to do .10mm, but I'm high-altitude, so do you think .12mm ? Also on the carb I was just going to move the clip 1 richer on the needle and call it good.

Snow is melting fast and I have a new IRC M5B 130/80-18 tire. Just no gravle roads.
 
And my decomp lever broke off the first day and I never fixed it and now I need fork seals.
 

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