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valve guides

oyk

Joined Jan 2005
344 Posts | 0+
kavala, greece
hello people,
i wanted to change the valve guides of my 95 fe 600.
i ordered 4 of them from my local dealer.i was told that all 600 models and 501 form 89' through 03' has the same guides.

when i got them they looked the same, although the inner diameter was smaller and the valve could not get through.i thought that all new guides are like this and needed the special tool (don't know the name in english) to overbore it.

then i pressed out the old ones and i was really surprised to see that the ones i ordered had 1mm smaller outer diameter, so it was impossible to fit.
dealer told that he send me the right ones and that my bike has valve guides that are not stock-more likely hand made by a machinist.
i say that he just wanted not to admit that he send me wrong guides.

any way, i went on with making my own guides.

is there anyone who knows which husaberg model has the valve guides i described??

i recall that the outer diameter was 11mm (mine 12mm) and the inner was something like 5.6mm instead of 5.99mm of my old ones.
i measured it last week,didn't write down my measurements so i might not recall correct about the real outer diameter, but i surely recall that it was 1mm smaller.

might be of a 400?
 
hi oyk,

i have already change my valves guides. The original guide wasn't available and my dealer decided to replace them in a specialized workshop. The mechanic manufactured them in the mass of bonze and inserted in the cylinder head with a press. But after it's necessary to use a tool which bore the guide at the right size. For that, i paid 90 € the guides

Sorry ,i haven't the olders for measurement but i think the inner is correct and the outer provide from specific manufacturing of guides.
 
guides

someone suggested that i should use the same material that old motorcycle cylinders are made of(don't know how to spell it in english,but almost the majority of bikes use this material for valve guides instead of bronze) and not bronze so as to be more reliable.
 
Oyk

Below is a list of typical valve guide materials:

Cast iron (The material old motor cycle cylinders are made of).

Tin Bronze ( North American UNS C90500, German CuSn10Zn, British G1) for piston airplane engines.

Aluminum bronze (North American UNS C95400, German CuAI10Fe, British AB1) for high temperature applications.

Other alloys such as manganese bronze and leaded phosphor bronze are frequently used for race applications.

Any of the above would probably make suitable valve guides for your Husaberg.

The tool you are referring to that sizes the bore once pressed in is called a reamer. You can buy lots of different kinds of reamers, ones for use in machines and ones for use by hand. Most valve guides are reamed with a hand reamer in small shops. You can buy special purpose valve guide reamers which are not to expensive.

I often make valve guides out of cast iron and have small billets of material for this purpose. Email me if you get stuck [email protected]

Hope this is of use.

Regards

Ben
JBSracing
 
Hi Oyk,
When Husaberg made the switch to conical valve springs (to support the inverted flank camshaft) the guides were also revised. I believe that to be around 1997 or 1998.

Hope this helps.
Sincerely,
Dale
 
JBSracing wrote:
Below is a list of typical valve guide materials:

Cast iron (The material old motor cycle cylinders are made of).


yeah, thats the material i was talking about. i will have it ready until monday or so. thanks for the support JBSracing.

LINEAWEAVER wrote:
Hi Oyk,
When made the switch to conical valve springs (to support the inverted flank camshaft) the guides were also revised. I believe that to be around 1997 or 1998.

Hope this helps.
Sincerely,
Dale



the valve that my dealer send me, are from a 1997 husaberg.
so there is chance they are from a cylinder head with conical instead of double valve springs as you pointed out mr dale.

but it is peculiar because everybody sais (the local and central dealer) that ALL 600 models has the same guides.

they are wrong, right?
 
oyk said:
the valve that my dealer send me, are from a 1997 husaberg.
so there is chance they are from a cylinder head with conical instead of double valve springs as you pointed out mr dale.
but it is peculiar because everybody sais (the local and central dealer) that ALL 600 models has the same guides.

they are wrong, right?

They are indeed incorrect as two very different valve guide sizes exist.

Sincerely,
Dale
 
LINEAWEAVER said:
Hi Oyk,
When Husaberg made the switch to conical valve springs (to support the inverted flank camshaft) the guides were also revised. I believe that to be around 1997 or 1998.

Hope this helps.
Sincerely,
Dale

Dale, could you please explain "inverted flank camshaft"??

-Parsko

PS-another great post full of usefull info IMO!!!
 
Parsko said:
LINEAWEAVER said:
Hi Oyk,
When Husaberg made the switch to conical valve springs (to support the inverted flank camshaft) the guides were also revised. I believe that to be around 1997 or 1998.

Hope this helps.
Sincerely,
Dale

Dale, could you please explain "inverted flank camshaft"??

-Parsko

PS-another great post full of usefull info IMO!!!

Hi Parsko,
The camshaft flank is concave as opposed to convex which is considered the norm. Said physical shape is as a result of the high lift / short duration profile.


The camshaft looks more like an hour glass then that of a teardrop.


Sincerely,
Dale
 
guide seals

i finally had my guides on the bike but there is another challenge on the way..... :evil:

the exhaust valve guide seals keep coming out of their place once started! it happened with both old and the new guides.

the result is the bike to smoke like a 2 stroker.


a specialized husaberg mechanic told me that this is common problem to earlier husaberg models and his tip was to put some instant glue (!?!!!???) to the seals so as to stuck to the guide and prevent it from poping out.

any of you folks know WHY they pop out like this?

do you think instant glue shall work or if not, any tip to prevent it from happening?
 
For what it´s worth, here are some alternatives:
1. Machine new oversize guides.
2. Knurl the existing guides and mount with some "bad ***" Loctite
3. Make a threaded hole parallell to the guide in the cross-section between guide and cylinder head. Partly threaded in the guide, partly threaded in the cylinder head. Mount a stop bolt. Possible together with alternative #2.

I do not think glue alone, will do the trick. The only alternative that has proven good enough for racing, according to my own experience, is #1.

Good luck!

/Dr_C
 
i have just machined new guides, i have no apetite to do it again!

i am in a dilema now.........

instant glue or some bad *** m....r f....r loctite :?: :?: :?:
 

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