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Valve guide seals

Joined Jan 2004
198 Posts | 8+
lemont,illinois
Hey guys, what's all involved in replacing the valve guide seals? I went through the old posts and am a little confused. Do I need to do any machining or can I just pull the old ones out and replace. Is this something a at home do it yourselfer can do or do I need a specialist? The service manual basically states remove the seals and replace, a friend says they need to be reamed. 98 FE 600. Thanks!
 
hi, you have to remove the cylinder head then the valve springs (very easily using a gently centered tap) .
after you just remove the old seals (note,its common to see the seals out of place in this model), check the radial clearance of each valve in the guides, clean the surfaces very good and at this point you can just put the new seals preferably using some special glue.

then of course you need a tool to compress the valve springs back together.
 
Thanks Oyk,
I read your old posts and was wondering what kind of glue you ended up using?
 
It does seem to be that often the valve seals are off the guide.The engine seems to run well and suffers no ill effects.Has anyone got any theories as to what knocks the seals off and has anyone ever built an engine and just eliminated the seals?
 
FWIW some deisels have no seal on the intake valves bit of extra valve seat lube can't hurt

I just did a diahatsu DG engine 4 cyl diesel someone put seals on the intake valves, on 3 of the cyl the seals fell off but their intake valves were fine,

the one where the valve seals stayed on the valves ate 3mm into the seat :(

glue.. try loctite 403 maybe Im not sure if it likes high temps its a methylmethacrylate or black 3 bond solventless silicone might be strong enough
 
What happens if I dont do it right away? I just put the bike back together and have a Dual Sport ride in 2 weeks. I have no time on the motor at all except for up and down the block. I wish I had thought about this earlier.Right now the plugs are coming out black and sooted and I notice some soot out of the exhaust. Do you think this condition will be okay for a couple of rides or is a quick teardown recomended? (Time issues)
But it starts on the button! and my knees are grateful!
 
black plugs are more than likely a fuel issue. what carb? if its getting black by just putting around look at your low speed settings: pilot size, air, and / or fuel adjusts.
unless there is an obvious smoke bomb after a long idle or a long decel, i wouldn't worry too much about the seals.
reaming is only involved when you change the guides.
 
Hi Ned,
I am running a PHM 40, PJ 33, Needle K51 second clip from the top, 170 MJ, DR 274 AJ. I had a 272 in there but am using some specs for a 501 I found in the DOC. It does run good but I have been chasing this black plug issue around for quite some time. I guess I will leave it alone for awhile and see what happens.
 
depending on how quick the plug gets black, i would start with a 1/2 turn in on the idle mixture screw in front of the idle screw. if no effect, i'd go back to the 272 needlejet as long as it was relatively new. you know they oval out pretty quick, which really whacks out the low to mid range mixture. don't overlook the float level.
 
I'm gonna agree with Ned....as usual. You are chasing a rich condition. Worn slide needle and jet or float level issue more than likely.
 
The needle and jets are brand new, the carb I purchased from Simon a few years ago, maybe the slide is giving me issues. I really domt think I want to go any leaner on my settings. Is a 274 la leaner or richer jet than a 272? I tinkered with it tonight and it seems to idle well at 1 and 1/2 turns out on the mixture screw. I have a little pop in the exhaust which I feel is a lean condition. This is really driving me nuts.
 
firstly check the float height and report here what set up you have. i think you'll have two independant bollock...i mean balls and a two pronged float arm? this should tip down slightly at the point it closes the float valbve. the book says parallel to the carb body but i've found it to be wrong. anyone else notice this?

secondly, agree that if the fuel screw is down to 1/2 turn then you're rich at idle and should go back to 272 or you can drill the pilot airway out to 1.0mm and i think you'd be fine. if you've already done that then i think that you need the 272 back. also consider c1 for that needle.

finally, exactly how old and what code is your plug?

finally, finally, a rich plug is a sign that your SEM is 'clearing it's throat for a final curtain call!!!!!!'

regards

Taffy
 
what's the chance of old shultzy keeping us up to date with this?

longer odds than last weekends grand national winner ya reckon?

regards

taffy
 
I will try to keep you updated Taffy, and it's sChultzy!Also plugs are fresh CR 8ea? (I dont have them in front of me) and I installed a Sparks Stator last summer. will try to pull the carb apart this weekend, however it looks like a beautiful day I may have to take it for a test ride!
 
Since everybody felt it was a carb issue I pulled the plug and it was black but not as bad as earlier. I got a new 272 DR and lined them both up and was very surprised how much the old 272 was worn. Installed the new one and the bike runs like a dream! I havent pulled the plug yet but I dont think I want to, it runs that well! I have a little pop at idle but I blame that on the 33 pilot. I got a new bike! Look out KTM! I have arrived! Thanks guys! Hopefully I won't have any more questions till next winter!
 

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