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Valve clearance first timer!!!

Alf

Joined Oct 2003
6 Posts | 0+
Reading, UK
Sorry if it is a really stupid question:

I've read all the good info in the forum regarding valve clearances and decided to give it a try.
Bike is an '03 FE400 with 15 hours, it is running fine, although sometimes stalls easily at slow speeds and starting is OK-ish.

The thing is, when I try to find tdc with the kickstart levelr and plug removed there is so much resistance in the lever that there is no way I can move it by hand slowly. Once I get close to tdc by turning the rear wheel while in gear, I get the bike into neutral and try turning the flywheel. Again, it is very hard to move more than a few millimitres, and when I manage to turn it it sounds as if the starter engine (or some other kind of gears) are being engaged and rotated.
Coming from having a kick-only 250 I am surprised that the crank can not be rotated quite easily by hand with the plug out.
Whith the piston at tdc and flywheel marks at about 12 o'clock, the intake valves do move a bit up and down, but the exhaust valves seem to be a lot tighter (no noticeable movement).

Sorry if it sounds silly, but I really don't want to screw things up!!

Many thanks
 
Pull the ignition cover off and rotate the motor using the nut holding the flywheel on. The timing mark should line up dead center with the upper ignition cover bolt hole. If you have no valve lash you are probably 180 degrees out. I hope this helps.
 
you are trying to turn the engine backwards which is the gear noise/starter noise you hear.

as said, get the ignition cover off and turn to tdc witha 17mm stepped spanner. a good bit either way there should be no valves opening or closing. you are now on compression at tdc.

4 strokes are 4 strokes. they aren't 2 smokes so you'll just have to learn a whole new hymn.

Taffy
 
If the starter sprag has worn to the point where it goes over centre then it can occasionally lock up enough to spin the starter while cranking the engine forward with the kicker, but disengages (hopefully :shock: ) when the engine fires. Mine (an old model) does & I'm a bit worried about it.

I think berger meant 180 degrees on the cam = 1 full turn on the crank. Providing you are on the compression stroke the crank position for adjusting the valves is not critical as long at is somewhere near TDC.
 
thats pretty much the same thing that i was wondering when i first did my valves on my fe400e...just take the ignition cover off, and kick the lever once, it should get pretty well lined up with the bolt hole, at least enough so that you can move it to the exact spot by hand.

then if the rockers dont move, kick it through once more and you should be at tdc then, woohoo!
 
BTW lads, the bolt hole and the long line 'aligned' equals 10 dBTD, the short line is 5 dbtdc and then you have to imagine a tdc line. thats what i found by using the dead stop method.

so be warned if your ever thinking of being scientific.

Taffy
 
Taff-

When you you write dBTD do you mean:

10 degrees BEFORE top dead center?

or

10 degrees BEYOND top dead center?


what is dbtdc???



Sandskipper
 
it goes;
before top dead centre
after top dead centre
before bottom dead centre
after bottom dead centre

however when measuring lobe centres both lobes are often symmetrical of TDC so they will give the degrees compared to TDC even if it's around the other end. for instance, max lift points are for example;

inlet 109d ATDC
exhaust 109d BTDC

to re-cap
the long line is 10d BTDC
the short line is 5d BTDC
and another imaginary line can be drawn further and equidistant along from the short line to represent TDC.

the proper way to check is the dead stop method but this should ably demonstrate and be very, very close.

Taffy
 

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