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Update on my new old bike...

Joined Apr 2005
68 Posts | 2+
ohio USA
For those who are interested and might be keeping a mental track of my attempts at working the bugs out of my 97 FE600E, here is some new stuff. Just look at it as a soap opera about Husaberg. I rode a great ride last Friday at Wayne National Forest here in Ohio and the bike ran and started wonderful. I am very pleased with the power output and the handling of this bike. The brakes are crazy good and the throttle response is something out a horror movie! The one thing that was really strange getting used to was the engine braking. I have always owned 2-strokes and this is the first 4-stroke. When ever I let off the throttle, it's like putting on the brakes which really weights the front tire and can be hard to handle when it's greasy. Just gonna take a little getting to know. While coming back for the day it felt like my plug was fouled, like a 2-stroke does. I let it sit for a minute or two and it started and ran good the rest of the way back. Today I decided to do the first valve adjustment, its just now due for it's first. When I pulled the radiator I found that the welds on the header pipes have worn 2 holes almost through the bottom tank. The radiator was sitting on the header pipes. I will be taking it to a radiator shop tomorrow and having it repaired. I could'nt believe this is off a bike with less than 8 hours on it since new. I pulled the plug and sure enough its black and sooty. So I will be doing some more jetting in the future. I was wondering if someone had a hot jetting set-up for this. And the valve specs, are they the same as the new ones? Found mine pretty tight. I know in some peoples minds I'm riding a dinosaur, but it's just so much fun being challenged by a piece of equipment that is insistant on self destructing and not letting it! :lol: Oh yea, I almost forgot. I found both header pipes rubbing through on the starter bolts. But I caught it...again. The pipes are stamped FL 600, any ideas?

Thanks for listening,

Volvonut
 
drop the needle through by one clip. make one change at a time. check your ignition timing and if in doubt advance it 1-2mm.

one change at a time.

Taffy
 
If you try to jet your bike by plug color it will really piss Taffy off.

Because it has a SEM ignition and 97 600's burn a lot of oil jet for ridability. It will probably be hard to get a nice tan plug. Change the plug often. Conversely on the 04-05 models with the Kukosan ignition you probaly would never get any color on it but bone white.
 
volvonut

i've had the same plug in for 3 years since i fouled with the dell orto once. it's so old that the cap lost all it's thread and fell off the plug a fortnight ago.

the SEM does give a plug colour but alas your bike is too old for this system of checking to be reliable. also as said by husabutt, the plug needs to be fresh and you also need to know how to read it. you need to know how to stop the bike and what kind of run to go on before you do the 'plug chop'.

'plug chop' is the expression for flat out, kill the ignition WITH W.O.T-or whatever.

the new kokusan ignition system's leave no plug colour and burn white all the time. this will help plug life and starting. however it doesn't help with jetting.

go by feel! one test at a time. write down how it felt etc.

the only way to check the kokusan is to split the exhaust at the centre. if you look down the tailpipe the fresh oxygen from the atmosphere will have already affected the colour. therefore this is ALSO an unreliable way of checking.

always buy the best pump fuel you can. everyone visits shell or BP over here in the UK for 'shell powermax'. this is also known under the guise of 'the dog's bollocks!'

regards

Taffy
 

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