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Tuning help also metal shavings in filter ?

Joined Feb 2008
72 Posts | 0+
NSW Australia
Hi Well after reading the doc or most of it I thought I should check my 02-03 FE400E donk out a little better as it seems to be getting harder to start with the button.
So I remove and clean the carb, fit the missing emulsion tube under the pilot jet, fit a 175 main instead of the 185 (pilot was 35 needle K51 clip on 2 from top and needle jet DR270 standard choke 45 4mm slide and I don't think it has been drilled)
Then while looking down the inlet port I see tuliped inlet valves. I remove the head and face the valves cut the seats and reassemble it all adjust valve clearances and check out all the other bits, fit a new plug etc and now it won't start with the button !
It used to start easily when cold with the button and occasionally when warm but it gets worse. I decide to do an oil change (its only been about 10 hours since the last one) and the oil screen tube has flakes of shiny magnetic metal on it. I guess I have a bearing on the way out ? Will it likely be the counter balancer bearing ? Is it best just to remove the balancer totally or does the bike viabrate to much ? Your helps greatly appreciated as I just wanna ride it more and work on it less. P.S I am only trail riding and not flat out much at all.
Cheers Dan
 
Yes, the magnetic shiny bits are the hard facing off of a bearing.

Did you happen to check the cam followers while you had the the head off? This was a common problem on the pre 2003 bikes. I know I upgraded by 2001 bike to the 2003 rockers. Check the cam followers if you didn't, that's the most common cause of the bits on these bikes.

Did you set the axial play on the rockers themselves when you re assembled the rocker box?

The 02's also upgraded the counter balancer as well to the double row bearing. How many hours do you have on it?

Your starting problem:

First, you made some changes to the carb. You also left out the pilot size you are running.

Are you, or have you set the fms correctly once it's warmed up?

I would say that chances are good that these changes you made to the carb are the main reason it's not starting like it used to.
 
Hi I checked the follower bearings and they seemed nice and smooth with no play. not sure how to check the axial play on the rockers and I did not dissasemble the rocker cover as everything seemed good in there. There was about 1/2 to 3/4mm of sideways play in the rockers on the shafts, but the rollers had almost none.
I went riding today and electric starting problem was almost gone, it would not start from cold but when hot nearly every time I hit the button it started except when I needed it most and that was after stalling on a hill. I have not yet rechecked the oil strainer but am expecting to find more flakes there so I guess I should start dissmantling on the clutch side to see if I can find the problem.
 
Hi Danielson,
If you find more metallic shavings next time you check, find out whether they're steel or aluminum. If they are indeed aluminum, you may just need a revised cam chain slipper. The older style would go through all of it's adjustment which allows the cam chain to saw into the case, hence the alu. shavings. There was also a problem with the aluminum cam sprocket (I think your's is steel).

If the shavings are steel, bad bearings may be your problem.

edit: after re-reading your post, I see that you did mention the shavings are magnetic. :oops: Never mind.
 
Danielson said:
so I guess I should start dissmantling on the clutch side to see if I can find the problem.

If you do disassemble the clutch side, you'll be able to see if the cam chain is sawing into the case.
 
I'm interested in the carb stuff you mention Danielson. I have an 03 fe 400e and have never had it start on the button. I was having trouble starting on the lever too but seem to have cured that with some carb work.

Here's a link to a thread with my jet settings http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?name= ... pic&t=7611

I still can't get it to start on the button and I'm wondering what the diferences might be between your bike and mine. It seems you were running the same jetting as me to start with the exception of the main jet (which i don't think is relevant in this instance).

I also change my pilot up to a 40 from 35

I did find that adjusting the valve clearances helped with the starting on mine. I think they were a little tight so maybe the valves are an issue for you.

You probably figured this out but it's good to try making changes one at a time so you can understand the diferences.

Anyone comment on poor starting on ther button but good on the lever?
 
Hi I did not really change much in the carby but unber the pilot jet there is sometimes a small emulsion tube not installed which I did fit. See carurettion in the Doc for more information on this.
I also refaced the valves and made sure they were sealing good and reset clearances. Intially it would not start off the button but now is every time. Mine also would kickstart easily almost every time.
I would also make sure your battery is good and well charged and fit a new spark plug. Also check that your decompressor cables are adjusted correctly.
 
Took my clutch cover off today and removed the clutch and visually checked all the bearings I could but could not see anything that is suspect wich means I will probably have to tear the motor down at some stage soon. I have put the bike back together for know as it is still going well and make no odd noises. I will keep an eye on the screen fo more shavings and hope there is none !!!
Starting problem seems solved hit the button and it goes. Yeha..
 

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