Torque Wrenches???

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Jees Pete...are you not aware of the temperatures involved in re-entry...if your torque settings are 0.0001% out then your angle through the atmosphere will be misaligned & you'll burn up..duh
 
Speaking of re entry this post has gone to outer space and back! So I am going to buy a Snap On Techwrench. Seems to be the best buy all the way around, and to get a couple of other quality ones that will do what the Techwrench will is almost as costly.
I am looking at used right now one on EBay and one on Craigslist, save a few hundred as long as it wasn't dropped....otherwise looks like a new one is about $430 Canadian. OUCH but will have it for as long as I will be turning wrenches.
 
Hey Boss. If I want to beat on my wheel I'll do it. It's mine isn't it? So back off and quit yelling Mr Hydrolic press man. Every time someone says something you don't like or agree with you come off yelling at em. Cool down. If I end up cracking my wheel from hitting a rim ding then thats my problem. I'll get a new one. I never said I got the best ways of doing things but I make a lot of stuff work to my likings. And I do have access to a press. Maybe I will try it sometime.
While were on the press subject, Have you ever crushed something real big? Like a Ford F-150 cab? I have. Did it with a Komatsu PC220. Smashed it down good to about 1 foot tall :twisted:
Pollo
 
In addition to my existing collection, that includes one like this:
http://www.justtools.com.au/prod4534.htm
I got one of these to go with my 650, primarily for the triple clamps,
http://www.justtools.com.au/prod4295.htm
It is very good.

More options here:
http://www.justtools.com.au/category307_1.htm

Remember that when you have finished with your torque wrench, remove all the tension from it, typically resetting it to zero so that the spring is less likely to relax and it'll maintain its calibration longer. And store it properly.

I agree with BOSS re lubing spokes, I dismantle all my wheels when new and lube up the nipples with antiseize, both on the threads and under heads where they seat into the rim. And like Pollo I have also had good success bashing out dinged rims with a anvil and big ball pein hammer. Loosen all the spokes nearby first, and then re-true. I can loosen them because I've lubed them up already. I also have a 20 tonne press, but don't have pretty anodized rims.

Steve
 
Pollo you can beat the snot out of all you have if you like it's your's right?

I do have the right to opinions just like you & I most certainly was not Yelling!
 
hey rick, welcome to pollo's s**tlist. i needed the company. :lol:
 
Hey Ned. Did I ever tell you I was 3/4 Sicilian 1/4 English and from Los Angeles not San Diego?
And another thing. Your still allowed to get them old tires out of my trash. I'll let you know. Hijac over
Pollo
 
Re: RE: Torque Wrenches???

Krisbrumm said:
I haven't ment nothing about heat treatment!!!
That what I said is call normalising, which got nothing to do with heat treatment like hardening or carbonising or nitrogenizing of the surfaces.

Krisbrumm, I'm not getting into a lame discussion about the manufacture of iron castings (or steel for that matter), HOWEVER correction: "normalising" is a form of heat treatment. If you won't take my word for it, definition below;

http://metals.about.com/library/bldef-Normalising.htm

If you really don't know what your talking about, suggest you save the absurdly inaccurate lectures for a 5 year old who doesn't know any better.

Happy New year!
 
And another thing. Your still allowed to get them old tires out of my trash
cool, try and keep 'em out of the sun, i don't know when i can make it over :lol: :wink:
(also end of hijak)
 
my personal recommendation would be the halfords wrenches. theyre pretty robust and imo give the best value for money with accuracy. The springs inside, im SURE, will stay accurate enough for what us mere mortals use it for on our bikes. Just make sure once it has been used you back it all the way off, this means the spring is only under tension when its in use and not losing its calibration when not in use.
I bought mine after reading a review in PB or similar magazine, they tested them to 125% of their max and the halfords one lost very little accuracy (at full scale) if any. I wouldnt bother with an expensive one for light use.
I think they retail at about 50 quid but tbh i think its the best 50 quid ive ever spent on a tool (ok no jokes please ;)
Torqueing stuff up is essential, go buy one !!
 
I like to use this Proto wrench for all applications. I'm having a bit of a rough time finding a 6mm socket though.
 

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BigAl said:
I like to use this Proto wrench for all applications. I'm having a bit of a rough time finding a 6mm socket though.

Blimey! Have you got one a bit longer so i can watch tv in the room above at the same time.
 
I used to come from the school of " I can tell when it's tight enough", this usually meant I'd overtightened it - sheared it or at least got to that point where you could just feel it going and think "oh s h i t". 10nm is hardly anything - It's surprising how little force is actually required.

I agree with one wheel - Halfords do a very good wrench in nm & imperial. The one I use most (see pic) is 10 - 60nm / cost about £60.00.
 

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all that and a bag of chips, must be winter in some parts of the world. LMAO!
 

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