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Tools for engine strip?

F

Freaky

Joined Apr 2008
204 Posts | 0+
Worcestershire England
Hi all, about to start an engine strip this week due to the head gasket leaking on a ride the other day. As I will ahve to remove the head I thought I may as well split the cases and check the bore, piston and replace the mains, the bike has always used oil, as much as 100ml on an hours ride so expecting to have to atleast replace the rings anyway. My question is what specialist tools will I require? Presume I will need a flywheel puller, is there anything else I should get before I get in too deep?

Thanks
Freaky
 
flywheel puller & tidy clutch holding tool - as it will soundly piss you off when the dodgy clutch tool your using slips and snaps a prong off of the inner basket - trust me on this.

other than than no.

just remember i found the engine locking tool handy,i just made one up fron a piece of the correct diameter threaded bar and tampered the end. 5 mins work
 
Hey Cypher he has an 03.
Just a circlip and the clutch falls off.
Make sure you use a flywheel puller though - trust me on this.

Coops
 
Cheers folks, ordered a flywheel puller today.
I plan to remove the head, clutch and flywheel whilst the engine is still in the bike then transfer to the bench and strip, is this the best way?

Regards Freaky
 
Freaky said:
Cheers folks, ordered a flywheel puller today.
I plan to remove the head, clutch and flywheel whilst the engine is still in the bike then transfer to the bench and strip, is this the best way?

Regards Freaky
Click to expand...

Do yourself a favor and weld yourself an engine stand, makes working on the engine a lot easier.

Why would you wanne pull the head, clutch,... with the engine still in the bike? Especially the head will be problematic I think because there is very little room to work with the engine still in the bike!

Oh yeah, definately use a proper flywheel puller and not a three arm puller, look at my avatar to see what happens when using a three arm puller :)
 
BelgiqueBasterd said:
Freaky said:
Cheers folks, ordered a flywheel puller today.
I plan to remove the head, clutch and flywheel whilst the engine is still in the bike then transfer to the bench and strip, is this the best way?

Regards Freaky
Click to expand...

Do yourself a favor and weld yourself an engine stand, makes working on the engine a lot easier.

Why would you wanne pull the head, clutch,... with the engine still in the bike? Especially the head will be problematic I think because there is very little room to work with the engine still in the bike!

Oh yeah, definately use a proper flywheel puller and not a three arm puller, look at my avatar to see what happens when using a three arm puller :)
Click to expand...

I only see a nice kid and a bike in your avatar? :twisted:
 
ElSnorro said:
BelgiqueBasterd said:
Freaky said:
Cheers folks, ordered a flywheel puller today.
I plan to remove the head, clutch and flywheel whilst the engine is still in the bike then transfer to the bench and strip, is this the best way?

Regards Freaky
Click to expand...

Do yourself a favor and weld yourself an engine stand, makes working on the engine a lot easier.

Why would you wanne pull the head, clutch,... with the engine still in the bike? Especially the head will be problematic I think because there is very little room to work with the engine still in the bike!

Oh yeah, definately use a proper flywheel puller and not a three arm puller, look at my avatar to see what happens when using a three arm puller :)
Click to expand...

I only see a nice kid and a bike in your avatar? :twisted:
Click to expand...

Forgot I changed avatar :), it was this pic I was referring to :)


206170799.jpg
 
update on strip

Hi all, started engine strip this morning, reason for strip was headgasket leak externally and internally also using oil. Found some scoring on the exhaust side of the bore which can be felt with the finger nail so I pressume this is the cause of the oil consumption and also why the oil went black so quickly, does this mean a new liner of will I get away with re-plating? Advise appreciated.
The water pump shaft has wear on it pressumably where the water pump seal sits which must be why the weep hole in the housing leaks a tiny amount now and then, replace or live with it? looks like an expensive part?
I haven't split he cases yet as I'm waiting for a flywheel puller to arrive but, do I need to remove the counterbalance cog and the camchain sporcket before I can split the cases or can they remain in situ. Any tips on removal if i need to, cog seems very tight on the shaft and key?
Hopefully some pictures should be bellow.

Thanks folks
 

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Re: update on strip

Freaky said:
I haven't split he cases yet as I'm waiting for a flywheel puller to arrive but, do I need to remove the counterbalance cog and the camchain sporcket before I can split the cases or can they remain in situ. Any tips on removal if i need to, cog seems very tight on the shaft and key?


Thanks folks
Click to expand...

I used a small two arm puller to remover these and the sprocket on the crank. Doesn't cost a lot and will be a lot easier than messing around with a chisel/ screwdriver to try and pry it off!
 
Re: update on strip

BelgiqueBasterd said:
Freaky said:
I haven't split he cases yet as I'm waiting for a flywheel puller to arrive but, do I need to remove the counterbalance cog and the camchain sporcket before I can split the cases or can they remain in situ. Any tips on removal if i need to, cog seems very tight on the shaft and key?


Thanks folks
Click to expand...

I used a small two arm puller to remover these and the sprocket on the crank. Doesn't cost a lot and will be a lot easier than messing around with a chisel/ screwdriver to try and pry it off!
Click to expand...

Yep is used a 2 arm puller for that too :)
 
RE: Re: update on strip

Hard to tell how bad the scores on the bore are but they don't look that bad to me. Are there any black blow-by marks past the rings?
Get a machine shop to check measurements but you can prolly get away with a light hone.
Everyone's wp shafts look like that. Measure the shaft in the wear groove to make sure the ID of the seal is smaller and will seal on the shaft. I just cleaned mine up with some fine wet/dry with oil to take the edge off the groove and it was fine. Of course the new seal must either run exactly in the same wear groove or on a different section of the shaft.
You can get thinner seals with the same ID/OD but IMHO they will just make more wear grooves in different spots and make it harder to get a seal next time.

Coops
 
Thanks for the input coastie. A couple of the scores I would not be worried about as I can just about feel them with my nail but one is deep enough to feel with my finger. Haven't got as far as the piston yet, still waiting for flywheel puller and 2 legged puller to arrive.
Any suggestions on a decent company in UK to replate the liner?
Taffy, if you read this, will PM you once in bits to order whatever I need.
 
i use langcourt but get a trade price of course so if you want to send it to me along with anything else to look at and check i will get it away.

regards

Taffy
 
Thanks taffy I'll take you up on that. Should have the flywheel puller tomorrow, taken DCR a week to get it to me. If it's ok with you I'll send you the liner so you can get it plated etc then when you get that back you can send it on to me along with the other bits I will need, piston, rings, gasket kit, head gasket, cam chain should do it I hope.

Thanks
Freaky
 

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