too many sparks, and weak?

kiwitim · Sep 18, 2016

Hi all,

First time post - I did do a bit of a search but came up with nothing.

I bought an FE501, which I think is an 03 or 04 with SEM ignition on it. It had a broken auto decomp, which broke the side of the head off when it let go.

I have replaced the head, and triple checked timing etc. and it has a ton of compression, is getting fuel, and when checking the spark off the button it almost looks like it is sparking too many times, even knowing it is a wasted spark system.

I have pulled the stator , and cleaned everything up. But still the same thing. It doesnt make sense to me - It just won't run!

As far as logic tells me - I have compression, fuel, and spark, so it should run right?

I can't seem to find my stator wiring diagrams anywhere mine has 6 wires. Black, Green, 2x yellow, Blue and a red with a white line.

Can anyone help?

ned37 · Sep 18, 2016

Black to Red = 3000 ohms
Black to Green = 165 ohms
all +- 10%

webmonstro · Sep 18, 2016

Have you changed the spark plug ? Mine had a intermittent spark . Changed the plug and fixed it

kiwitim · Sep 18, 2016

ned37 said:
Black to Red = 300 ohms
Black to Green = 165 ohms
all +- 10%

Thank you - I will check that when I get home - which pair is the trigger?

I am still concerned over the multiple spark issue - I presume I should only be getting 1 per revolution, and it looks to me like it is at least double that.

I will try and put a video on to see if anyone can tell if it's normal or not.

kiwitim · Sep 18, 2016

webmonstro said:
Have you changed the spark plug ? Mine had a intermittent spark . Changed the plug and fixed it

I actually haven't tried another plug as the one in it clearly sparks when not in the head - But I will throw a new one in to at least eliminate that issue, just in case.

zaga · Sep 19, 2016

kiwitim said:
Thank you - I will check that when I get home - which pair is the trigger?

I am still concerned over the multiple spark issue - I presume I should only be getting 1 per revolution, and it looks to me like it is at least double that.

I will try and put a video on to see if anyone can tell if it's normal or not.

Hi

Black / Green

ZAGA

Taffy · Sep 19, 2016

you don't mention a black wire? it should have one and it should NOT have a red/white wire!

turn the idle up a little
check for a WET plug? if not, pour a thiimble full into the rubber sock and plug hole.

Taffy

kiwitim · Sep 19, 2016

Taffy said:
you don't mention a black wire? it should have one and it should NOT have a red/white wire!

turn the idle up a little
check for a WET plug? if not, pour a thiimble full into the rubber sock and plug hole.

Taffy

You are right - I should have said black first - not sure why I wrote red? The red definitely has a white stripe as does the coil/ignition unit. Can't find info to match it anywhere.

Have dropped fuel into the sock - no change. Need to get a new plug tomorrow, failing that it must be the stator I'm guessing?

Taffy · Sep 19, 2016

have a look st my stators for sale on ebay? yours the same?

your stator. is it like one of the two i sell on ebay?

Taffy

kiwitim · Sep 19, 2016

Yes it looks like this one but blue

HUSABERG SEM STATOR - FE/FS/FX models 1997-2003 (P/"EXCHANGE") | eBay

kiwitim · Sep 19, 2016

ned37 said:
Black to Red = 3000 ohms
Black to Green = 165 ohms
all +- 10%

Black to Red/white = 2670 so just outside of 10% not sure if this would effect the running at all if it is the charging circuit
Black to green 160 so should be ok to run.

Patrik E · Sep 19, 2016

I once bought a new ignitioncoil for a sem ignition, it had the Cables shifted in the connector.
It had exactly that problem, too many sparks that was weak.
changed the Cables and it worked perfekt.

Taffy · Sep 20, 2016

I reckon 2670 will do fine but those blue-ish ones are really old now and whoever had it has had good value out of it.

try and unplug 3 or 4 wires at the coil.
remove the short black
remove the orange and it MUST DANGLE, it must not touch anything as it is the kill wire
remove the grey
remove the white

now see what you have OK?

regards

Taffy

FE350 · Sep 20, 2016

Could the orange be shorting to ground somewhere in the circuit????????? disconnect after doing Taffys test and try to start with it not connected just for ***** and giggles

zaga · Sep 20, 2016

Taffy said:
have a look st my stators for sale on ebay? yours the same?

your stator. is it like one of the two i sell on ebay?

Taffy

Hi Taffy

Just to warn you that your ebay add is wrong and might confuse some people, it's not 97-03, it's 99-03, as you well know.

Not that it will make any practical difference ... but it's easy to correct, so you should do it.

ZAGA

kiwitim · Sep 20, 2016

Taffy said:
I reckon 2670 will do fine but those blue-ish ones are really old now and whoever had it has had good value out of it.

try and unplug 3 or 4 wires at the coil.
remove the short black
remove the orange and it MUST DANGLE, it must not touch anything as it is the kill wire
remove the grey
remove the white

now see what you have OK?

regards

Taffy

Thanks Taffy - I have now disconnected everything except the Black and Green, and it does the same thing.

I haven't had a chance to pick up a new plug in case it is something that simple. Given that the stator values seem O.K. I'm starting to think I have missed something.

So to Summarise;

When trying to start;
Sparks appear weak, and seem to be too often
Plug does get wet after a few tries - so it is getting fuel
Coil resistances seem O.K
There is a TON of compression - Very difficult to kick without the decomp.

Tomorrow, I will get a new plug and try that
Will also replace connectors to eliminate that (if plug doesn't fix it).

Taffy : It sounds like I should replace the stator once I find the problem anyway. Can you send to Australia?

Oh and Thanks to everyone for the suggestions so far.

kiwitim · Sep 20, 2016

Just a thought - I there any chance the cam timing could be 180 degrees out and effect it??

Taffy · Sep 20, 2016

there are TWO blacks!!!!!!!!!!! (there's a NZ joke in there somewhere!)

keep black, green and red connected.

Taffy

kiwitim · Sep 21, 2016

Taffy, did as you suggested - Just looks like the spark is too weak. I measured the resistance again and came up with 201 ohms - Black to Green so that is actually out. Can you send me the reco stator, and I'll post this one over?

Taffy · Sep 21, 2016

well, that is too much on the green to black and I never normally see more than 170 ohms. 170 max but that won't be the problem because you are getting a timed spark and the green to black are responsible for the timing.

your problem is still the red to black. this is the one that always fails and should be as we have said, around 2,700 ohms on the third clicker that shows as 2.70, I think.

sure, if you are ready for it then go! we do a service whereby you send yours and for 20gbp we strip a running and warm bike and try your stator on it. if it isn't the stator then it is 20gbp. if it is the stator then you don't pay a thing - as long as we repair it though!

get it on the way over here and we can discuss that bit later. you have to decide whether to have a SEM exchange or an Electrex (which doesn't need an exchange.

they are both prone to going when wet. the electrex is said NOT to overcome the I.M/coil anymore but the guy talks bollocks all day on the phone even making up new electrical units of power in his conversation. really! I couldn't believe my ears!

so there is still a doubt in my mind whether the Electrex overcome the I.M due to producing over 3,000ohms. I think the guy would sell his Mother.....

but they both have a warranty for a year. any sign of water ingress and it is void.

so real care needs to be taken with sealing the cover.

this is what i did to make my first one last eight years:
silicon the cover
silicon the wire in the rubber
silicon the rubber in the cover
silicon the entry to the conduit
shepherds crook and zip tie the top entry near the I.M.
check the conduit all the time near the oil filter housing, never twist the conduit refitting
silicon the bung
vasaline the flywheel and stator.
and lastly, my best job: drill up underneath into the crankcase at the back with a 6mm drill bit and let it air from below.

address is on my web shop fella and remember that it is worth: nothing, zilch, nada, phuqall, broken, kaputt, for repair, useless, not worth a bean.

regards

Taffy

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