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Time to change camchain

Joined Jul 2008
52 Posts | 0+
Sweden
Hello!

I have a Fe550 2004 with 160 hr´s on it. The last owner stripped the engine at 100 hr's after a crack in the engine case. They "measured" everything in the engine he said, and changed the camchain.

I checked the camchain tensioner today, and it was fully extended. I have read very many different threads about the camchain, but I have some questions:

* Is it possible to change the camchain without the special tools?

* Is IWIS the best choice of chain?

* Do you think I should change the tensioner to a newer one?

* Do I need to replace the plastic part that tensions the chain?

Best regards Dennis
 
Hi grillbritt,

You do not need very special tools to change the camchain.Just find a proper sized press with 'C' shape with a strong screw through it or make your own.drill a hole on your press for the chain pin to pass by.make a good sharp point on the tip of press screw.I would put a pic of my own If I could.press one of the pins on the camchain at the camshaft wheel side.You may need an extra pin to push it through more until the camchain pin completely fall off or tap with a hammer by using a suitable drill bit to push the pin out.don't forget to support the chain at the back by a sleeve around the pin and a weight.Sorry for my english but I think this will give you the idea.I always make my tools of my own.No need to mess with special tools as far as you know what you are doing.For the installation of the new chain just follow the steps backward:p

I recommend IWIS chain.

I recommend using thick black tensioner plastic.have a look at the docs.you will see it.from '04 it uses that tensioner.If you have that tensioner plastic leave it if it is not eroded much. if you are using black plastic then you don't have the aluminum spacer on the tip of the tensioner rod and you dont need a new tensioner.otherwise take the spacer out and use the newer black tensioner plastic.

if the tensioner is fully extended either your chain is aged and needs replacing or your tensioner plastic is eroded much which is not very easy to happen.
 
Forget to mention,

For the installation of the new chain ,after you push the pin in, fix the pin in place by blowing its ends,again with a nice hammer, a nice pointed rod or something like it and a good support to the pin at the back.maybe someone else with better english skills may explain/translate this to you :p don't do it until you get the whole picture exactly.:p
 
Hello Faust

Thanks for the answers!

The heads on the pins are rounded, don't I need to grind those first before I press with the super tool?

The plastic is black. What will happen if I loosen the screw that holds the banana besides the camshaft?

Do I need to lock the engine before I loosen the chain?
 
take the tensioner out and the banana then.

you don't have to grind the heads just press them in.You will have some resistance at the beginning but it will go through then.afterwards, you can keep on pushing by tapping the pin out by using a bit, hammer and supporting the chain at the back with a weight.use a sleeve around the pin of interest at the back between the chain and weight for good support.

you don't have to lock the engine.just practise the positions of camshaft and TDC before you uninstall the chain to grab the idea of timing.you should check for chain timing in the forum. it is very easy. put the engine in TDC and place the camshaft at its lobes at 11 and 1 o'clock referencing the horizontal line as the surface of cylinder head not the floor.good starting point is to put the engine in TDC and thus the camshaft lobes pointing 11 and 1 before uninstalling the chain and do not rotate the engine after then while replacing the chain.but it will certainly rotate.you must get the timing right when installing the new chain.there are lots of info in the forum.
 
before installing the new chain put the banana in but not the tensioner.after installing the chain,push the rod in the tensioner without the spring in it.install the tensioner and then the spring.check the tension of the chain.
 
Is removing tensioner to check a simple procedure? I have never messed with it but i want to check camchain and rockers etc. My 06 650 has about 130 hours and would rather change worn parts before top end grenades.
 
Is removing tensioner to check a simple procedure?
yes, relatively easy.
to easily access the unit, i recommend pulling the exhaust headers, loosen the midsection and swivel to see if you have enough room, if not, pull mid too. put engine at tdc (or close to it), pull out the 10mm bolt and spring, then remove the 2 mounting screws and remove the tensioner.
you should then note how far out the tensioner plunger has gone and then pull it out all the way to see how much more is left. you can count the clicks left versus how many total to get an idea of how worn the chain is. in my experience, the starting point for a new chain will vary (sparks had one that was banjo string tight, but mine are generally around a 50% plunger for a new chain.
at 130 hours, it wouldn't hurt to look at the cam follower bearings which requires that you pull the rocker cover. having it off allows you to also visualize chain wear by trying to lift it from the sprocket. and at that point, its also relatively easy to change the chain.
FWIW i changed the IWIS chain on my '04 450 at around 100 hours and it really wasn't even close to being worn. the tensioner was out to about 75% at the time. (wasted exercise).
 
Time to change Cam Chain

Hi guys!
I have a 04 550 with 160h and have just pulled the top off the motorfor something to do and will be looking at the same with mine. This is how I manage the timing chain, I place rags around the top of the motor , then grind the heads off the pins on the chain, then you can just about get a flat screw driver on the back side and gently tap and a link will drop straight out. If you grab the new chain and link it to the old one prior to removal, you should be able to with some assistance slowly turn over the motor with the plug out, and feed the new chain around, making sure it does not jump a tooth on the sprocket.It should wind on in exactly the same place as the old chain.
Dont know if thats the recommended method, but it works for me.Although the cam bearings and follower bearings seem fine, I will be replacing those while the top is off , bearing replacement and sealant is a pretty cheap reassurance,looking at the size of the lobes on the cam and valve springs, I would say they do some pretty hard work those bearings.

Regards,
enginenumber.
 
The chain is now replaced with a IWIS.
The tensioner get to about 30% tension, is that ok?

Now to the next problem:

After I assembled everything and tried to use the kick it was stuck. I didn't read enough before I took the sidecover of.

Guess I have to take it all apart again and refitt the kickstart shaft.

Any tips?

Can I test the kickstart with the clutch removed? What will happen to the timing then?
 
Guess I have to take it all apart again and refitt the kickstart shaft.

yep
make sure you mark the mesh of the clutch basket to the crank gear and the idler (chain) gear before you pull the clutch basket so the timing will be ok when you reassemble.
the procedure for the kicker is in the doc. put it in place with the gear off.
 

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