Time-Sert in Sump Drain - How?

kipper · May 28, 2011

Have the classic problem of the sump drain thread being damaged by over-tightening. Not a disaster yet as holding ok and only a tiny drip but want to get it fixed before disaster happens!

Favor the Time-Sert route (over Heli Coil) but want to know if it can be done with engine in place or does engine have to come out?

Many thanks

steve · May 28, 2011

Which engine?

I had to do my FE650 after stripping the threads after countless oil changes. I did it in situ, drained the oil, lay the bike over a bit to the right, and then flushed after drilling with some canned aerosol brake cleaner. I made up a 'U' tube by putting some stainless wire through a bit of plastic tube, and using a heat gun to turn it into a U. Could then insert the tube and flush from inside out. Did an oil change real soon after too, just in case.

Some grease on the drill and tap will reduce the swarf insde.

I attempted to use a timesert but found than they are too long, and therefore didn't lock as advertised, and the extra length also fouls the gear change. I ended up shortening one, just using it as a bush loctited over the stock sump plug, and with a suitable sealing washer works fine now.

If it goes again I expect it have to come apart and get welded up. There is not a lot of meat there.

steve

lesjive · May 28, 2011

I've been using ezlok inserts for a while now, no need for special taps and reamers like timesert.
You can order them one at a time instead of a kit.
http://www.ezlok.com/InsertsMetal/index.html

If your in the US, check here- click on thread locking, then thread locking with adhesive seal..
http://www.mcmaster.com/#threaded-inserts/=ci9w7l

Or here..
http://tekbolt.com/products.asp?cat=52

DaleEO · May 28, 2011

I have done a couple of heli coil repairs for the same. Both were done with the engine in the bike.

To make sure you get all the "stuff" out of the engine, do the work with the hole tilted towards the ground, copious amounts of grease on drill and tap as Steve mentioned.

When finished,I then warmed up a couple of quarts of motor oil, held my thumb over the drain hole and dumped in two quarts of pretty warm motor oil. Then released my thumb, the oil dragged out several pieces of metal that were inside.

The EZ locks are really cool, the only reservation I have is the diameter of hole that needs to be drilled to use them. If you use a seal pick with a 90* hook, you can easily determine whether or not you have enough room to install one of them. I have used them before on my shifter Kart hubs with great success.

What ever you use, just be sure and take your time and think through your moves and you will be successful.

Dale

ned37 · May 29, 2011

i found it easiest to just tap the hole out to 1\4" npt (no drilling required), slather a lot of pipe sealer on a 1/4male npt/ female 1\8 npt; drilled a hole thru a 1\8 plug and glued the magnet from the oem plug in place.
if i had to do it again, i would use a 1\4 close nipple with a cap. it would drain quicker. but i used what i had.

philis · May 30, 2011

If you decide to go down the helicoil route be careful that it doesnt end up snaging on your selector drum, like mine did...

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Time-Sert in Sump Drain - How?

kipper

steve

lesjive

DaleEO

ned37

philis

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