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Throttle position sensor

Joined Oct 2002
3K Posts | 21+
Sunland, CA
Greetings all,

Recently when I was over at my local shop, the mechanic there Brett, asked me if I had ever checked the TPS on my carb, as every TPS he has checked on Husaberg's and KTM's alike were way off.

So, the next time I pulled my carb off I checked the TPS per the owers/repair manual, and lo, the second measurement was way off. This setting is necessary so that the computer knows when the throttle is closed, IE at idle, and thus will make timing adjustments correctly in relationship to the throttle opening.

It's not that hard to do. You will need a good multimeter, and you will either need to buy the special torx bit with the indent in the center as the screws holding the TPS have a little *** in the center to keep you from using the standard torx bit. I just used a very narrow small chisel to knock the *** out of the center to gain access to the screws.

What I initially found was the base setting of 750 + or - 50 was close at 748, but the second setting which was supposed to be 750 + or - 50 was way off at a reading of 1150. It takes a bit of fiddling to get it really close, but, not so much to get in range. I was shooting for perfection so it took me a while to get adjusted just right.

Once you have made an adjustment, open the throttle and let it close a couple of times to re confirm your adjustment.

Dale
 
i'll get this in the doc but where would you like it? electrical or fuel or.......both!

regards

Taffy
 
DaleEO said:
Greetings all,

Recently when I was over at my local shop, the mechanic there Brett, asked me if I had ever checked the TPS on my carb, as every TPS he has checked on Husaberg's and KTM's alike were way off.

So, the next time I pulled my carb off I checked the TPS per the owers/repair manual, and lo, the second measurement was way off. This setting is necessary so that the computer knows when the throttle is closed, IE at idle, and thus will make timing adjustments correctly in relationship to the throttle opening.

It's not that hard to do. You will need a good multimeter, and you will either need to buy the special torx bit with the indent in the center as the screws holding the TPS have a little *** in the center to keep you from using the standard torx bit. I just used a very narrow small chisel to knock the *** out of the center to gain access to the screws.

What I initially found was the base setting of 750 + or - 50 was close at 748, but the second setting which was supposed to be 750 + or - 50 was way off at a reading of 1150. It takes a bit of fiddling to get it really close, but, not so much to get in range. I was shooting for perfection so it took me a while to get adjusted just right.

Once you have made an adjustment, open the throttle and let it close a couple of times to re confirm your adjustment.

Dale

Hi Dale,

Just awiating for a loom to arrive from DCR's, Northcountry findly sent me a TPS so I can do some tests to see just how much effect the TPS has on the ignition timing.
It is said that it can lead to engine troubles if large throttle openings are used at low RPM.
I think most people run them disconnected as I do.
Also to set them properly Dale you need a tacho at 1750 RPM I think.
Are you still running yours Dale?.

Regards

Sparks.
 
Re: RE: Throttle position sensor

Taffy said:
i'll get this in the doc but where would you like it? electrical or fuel or.......both!

regards

Taffy

I think if you have a look in the Doc Taffy it is already there, I think it came from me.

Regards

Steve.
 
Taffy, I think it should be in both.

Steve,

Yes, I'm still running mine. I figured someone spent a great deal of time putting this altogether to make things run better all the way around.

So, do you mean you need to set the rpm at 1750. Turn off the motor, and then go about checking the TPS position? I have never put a tach on my bike to see what rpm I have decided to set the idle at. The only time I reduce the idle speed is when I need a bit more resolution when setting the fms.

Dale
 
Re: RE: Throttle position sensor

sparks said:
Taffy said:
i'll get this in the doc but where would you like it? electrical or fuel or.......both!

regards

Taffy

I think if you have a look in the Doc Taffy it is already there, I think it came from me.

Regards

Steve.

i put it in both and modified the original text from you.

regards

Taffy
 
RE: Re: RE: Throttle position sensor

I know a while back Dale Lineweaver suggested disconnecting the TPS all together, is it possible that that was a suggestion due to them not being set correctly?
 
I understood DL's recommendation to disconnect the TPS to be based on the fact that it produced large changes in ignition timing and was developed for extended cruising (steady throttle) on multicylinder engines and was supposed to improve fuel economy in those applications.

In the case of the Hbg, I got the impression from various threads that it can lead to very high bottom end loads and may be a contributing factor to premature bearing failures.

In my opinion, fuel economy is a ridiculous notion on a single cylinder bike which uses an accelerator pump which almost never sees steady throttle for extended periods.

I disconnected mine the first day, so I can't comment on what impact disconnecting it may have had - at the time I was watching the string of threads on blown up 650 main bearings and wasn't taking any chances. Time has passed and it seems most of the 650 bearing issues were from a batch of Australian bound bikes but that is merely my personal feeling.

That is my take on the situation.

Cheers

Mark
 
sorry to bring this back up but can we clarify some points here:

dale you wrote your original comment as though we have a manual in front of us? well i can't see the details of testing this in the manual so can i have a page number?

we had also put it up here whether it's a reading we want from the blue/black at the TPS carb end or the connector on the bike's side?

regards

Taffy
 
did i get too techie again?

i'm reading here that there are meant to be two readings and tests....

regards

Taffy
 
From the 2004 repair manual pages G-10 & G-11.

ADJUSTING THE POSITION OF THE
THROTTLE SENSOR


NOTE: The idle speed must be correctly
adjusted before you check the position of the
throttle sensor.
– Disconnect the plug and socket connection on the
throttle sensor.
– Connect a multimeter (measuring range ohmsx 1k) to the
blue (+) and the black (–) cable on the throttle sensor
and measure the throttle resistance.
– Multiply this value by 0.15 to obtain the setting for the
throttle sensor.

Example:
Throttle sensor resistance (bl/b) = 5 kilo ohms
Throttle sensor resistance (y/b) = 5 kilo ohmsx 0,15 =
750 ohms± 50 ohms
– Connect the multimeter (measuring range ohmsx 100) to
the yellow (+) and the black (–) cable on the throttle
sensor and measure the throttle sensor resistance with
the throttle grip closed.

According to the above example, this value should be
750 ohms± 50 .

– If the measured value does not correspond to the
setpoint value, loosen the 2 screws (1) and turn the
throttle sensor (2) until the measuring device displays
the setpoint value.
– Fix the throttle sensor in this position by tightening the
screws and check the value again.
-Connect the throttle sensor to the cable tree.

CHECKING THE THROTTLE SENSOR

NOTE: The following measurement must be
performed at a component temperature of
approx. 20°C.

--Disconnect the plug connection on the throttle sensor.
– Connect a multimeter (measuring range . x 1k) to the
blue (+) and the black (–) cable on the throttle sensor.
Throttle sensor resistance: 4 - 6 kilo ohms
– Now connect the multimeter to the yellow (+) and the
black (–) cables on the throttle sensor.
– The resistance should change evenly when the throttle
grip is slowly opened.
Throttle sensor resistance: 0 - 5 kilo ohms±1 kilo ohms
(when the throttle grip is opened)

disregard the little squares, that was supposed to be the symbol for ohms.
 
Hate to dig up an old thread, but I think this one has important information that is being mis-interpreted. I don't think the service manual is saying the resistance between yellow and black should be 750 +/- 50 Ohms. From what I see, the TPS is just a potentiometer. The manual is saying the total resistance (blue to black) should be between 4-6 K Ohms. You measure this first. The resistance from yellow (wiper) to black should be 15% of the total resistance at idle. So if your measurement from blue to black is 4 K Ohms, then the measurement from yellow to black should be 4 K * 15% = 600 Ohms.

~petev
 
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I think the variable timing was seen by husaberg as a revolution! Originally I understand it was done based on the crank speed revolutions so the open throttle position with low revs was not an issue. Ktm introduced the TPS.

What happened to performance when the setting was changed?
 

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