bushmechanic said:
Based on my TTX experience for sure, plusher, more responsive, firmer but controlled, no deflection, all in the same fork compared to ANYTHING I have ever used. :cheers: :cheers:
Based on my TTX experience for sure, plusher, more responsive, firmer but controlled, no deflection, all in the same fork compared to ANYTHING I have ever used. :cheers: :cheers:
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
thats great to hear Gazza
the thing is with an OC fork and the CC fork is it has to have a decent pressure balance so it doesn't turn into a dribbling mess that tries to kill you at 150 in the sand along a fenceline. :twisted:
the achieve that pressure balance means that the base valve in an OC fork has to do A LOT of damping compared to the business (mid) valve thats bolted onto the end of the damping rod. the more you swing a fork in this direction the better it works hydraulically but the WORSE it feels.
in the TTX you can basically have no base valve damping if thats called for and it will still work properly hydraulically while also feeling nice and plush meaning you can have a nice plush feel, plusher than an OC fork and still rely on them in all situations to do the same thing every time.
the thing is with an OC fork and the CC fork is it has to have a decent pressure balance so it doesn't turn into a dribbling mess that tries to kill you at 150 in the sand along a fenceline. :twisted:
the achieve that pressure balance means that the base valve in an OC fork has to do A LOT of damping compared to the business (mid) valve thats bolted onto the end of the damping rod. the more you swing a fork in this direction the better it works hydraulically but the WORSE it feels.
in the TTX you can basically have no base valve damping if thats called for and it will still work properly hydraulically while also feeling nice and plush meaning you can have a nice plush feel, plusher than an OC fork and still rely on them in all situations to do the same thing every time.
I've been racing a 2010 250sx 2t off-road with CC forks tuned by Trail Tricks, and a TTX shock and it's magic, the CC forks are sooooo much better, the 2010 WP CC forks are much plusher than previouse years.
I started with TTX inserts, and here's my oppinion, Trail Tricks CC forks staying, TTX inserts FOR Sale $850.00.
The open chamber get sloppy and suck air, the WP close chambers do not suck air and stay much more consistant, and once you get the tools to work on them it's no big deal.
I started with TTX inserts, and here's my oppinion, Trail Tricks CC forks staying, TTX inserts FOR Sale $850.00.
The open chamber get sloppy and suck air, the WP close chambers do not suck air and stay much more consistant, and once you get the tools to work on them it's no big deal.
I just got back from a ride on the Trail Trick prepped CC forks. I like the feel of them much better than the OC forks. They aren't as plush as the OCs that Javier did, but they handle the whoops much, much better. I can live with them in rocks as long as they aren't trying to kill me in the whoops. 8)
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
so javier can't make the TTX fork inserts work? or were they stock TTX inserts?
there is no reason other than financial incentive for a tuner to come up with a conventional fork setting that works better than a TTX insert. the TTX design is light years ahead but there is more money in "tuning" the conventional stuff.
interesting report
there is no reason other than financial incentive for a tuner to come up with a conventional fork setting that works better than a TTX insert. the TTX design is light years ahead but there is more money in "tuning" the conventional stuff.
interesting report
bushmechanic said:
Sounds like the TTX's are exactly what im after really. Might be the go going with either a 2010 Berg 450 or kato 450, using the money saved and getting some ohlins
Only issue is I dont know of many people in Aus who know much about ohlins and can service them without F&^king them! Could i buy them from the US from someone say like Harry Reed who could set them up for my type of riding/weight and just bolt them in and set the sag/clickers. Or buy them from fleybay then have to get them setup over here?
Doug (Mudd400)
It was fantastic meeting you and Dylan at Nemadji! If I would've ridden Dylan's FX 450 I'd be converted that I know. I went up to Larson's last week to ummm...look :roll: while my poor husband sat outside (he doesn't ride). I definately want to ride a new Berg before I spend the money so watch out cos next time I'll say yes to a ride! Colleen
P.S. who's the 'local tuner'?
It was fantastic meeting you and Dylan at Nemadji! If I would've ridden Dylan's FX 450 I'd be converted that I know. I went up to Larson's last week to ummm...look :roll: while my poor husband sat outside (he doesn't ride). I definately want to ride a new Berg before I spend the money so watch out cos next time I'll say yes to a ride! Colleen
P.S. who's the 'local tuner'?
It was nice to meet you also. Next time you can ride my FE and the FX. :evil:LadyBerg said:
B-line, I believe they are in Scandia, or Lindstrom. Matt Stavish works for/with them.
spiderpig said:
we use Chad at at Chad Offroad http://www.chadsoffroadsetups.com.au/complete.htm
Chad does our WP and my Ohlins TTX I used on my Dakar bike.
He does most of the top guys who ride Safari etc including Grabbo. Last year's Safari Andrew Coaker ran stock FE570 WP OC gear set up by Chad and he said it was the best suspension on any bike he had ever used, came 7th outright (mind you he hasnt tried the TTX gear yet :twisted: )
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
hey spider pig don't worry about that the TTX stuff is just an extra tube around the damping tube, I made my own TTX forks.
any "tuner" worth his salt should have no problem working on them ... I find it easier than the other crap becasue they respond very positively to any changes you make. ie you want stiffer rebound you change the shims and you get a stiffer rebound, with the other stuff its a mixed bag and often things don't work out how they should for a few attempts because of bad pressure balance and silly design quirks. the 2010 RMZ450 shock is a perfect example there is one in my bin done about 15 revalves on it had to redesign the compression adjuster to make it semi consitent and then tried a TTX shock .... oh baby
dunno if anyone reads ADB but Terry Hay has a paragraph or two on his new Dyno... can be used for finding cavitation he reckons. he explain the problem well and while i don't agrree that you can't see if you have cavitation just by watching ... I can.
you have to see the advantage as with TTX there is no cavitation to watch for.
if you're really stuck spiderpig I'll do them for you
any "tuner" worth his salt should have no problem working on them ... I find it easier than the other crap becasue they respond very positively to any changes you make. ie you want stiffer rebound you change the shims and you get a stiffer rebound, with the other stuff its a mixed bag and often things don't work out how they should for a few attempts because of bad pressure balance and silly design quirks. the 2010 RMZ450 shock is a perfect example there is one in my bin done about 15 revalves on it had to redesign the compression adjuster to make it semi consitent and then tried a TTX shock .... oh baby
dunno if anyone reads ADB but Terry Hay has a paragraph or two on his new Dyno... can be used for finding cavitation he reckons. he explain the problem well and while i don't agrree that you can't see if you have cavitation just by watching ... I can.
you have to see the advantage as with TTX there is no cavitation to watch for.
if you're really stuck spiderpig I'll do them for you
bushmechanic said:
He also sells TTX, but I've had several people tell me that they preferred his CC modded forks to the TTX. I don't see the financial difference in paying him for TTX inserts or paying him to tune a pair of CC forks.
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
more money in polishing the CCs than sellling TTX.
even less money in selling the TTX and then revalving them because market share goes to the best money vs performance ratio which is the CCs.
best possible suspension should come from The TTX but not all the "tuners" have them figured yet or have invested enough time testing to improve them
even less money in selling the TTX and then revalving them because market share goes to the best money vs performance ratio which is the CCs.
best possible suspension should come from The TTX but not all the "tuners" have them figured yet or have invested enough time testing to improve them
Joined Jun 2004
380 Posts | 0+
Sandpoint ID
I talked to ktm dealer that was at the dealer meeting and he rode all the bikes that was there, incuding the bergs he did not even notice that berg had CC forks he thought that the berg worked great in the off road section of the
test track he also thought that the XCW worked better in that section compared to the XC sounds like that the
husaberg has the CC fork figured out, as a side note he also thought that 2011 390 ran better than the 2010
later VIKING
test track he also thought that the XCW worked better in that section compared to the XC sounds like that the
husaberg has the CC fork figured out, as a side note he also thought that 2011 390 ran better than the 2010
later VIKING
I expected to be able to dial in the OC forks and Berg shock to my liking. Everything is up in the air now that I can't. Not sure how to proceed exactly, but throwing $2000 at a TTX set up doesn't make me feel all warm and fuzzy. The CC forks and WP shock worked very well for me on my previous KTMs. I'm hoping I can find similar performance with them on the 570. If I can't, I guess TTX will be my next option, or sell the bike...............bushmechanic said:
bushmechanic said:hey spider pig don't worry about that the TTX stuff is just an extra tube around the damping tube, I made my own TTX forks.
any "tuner" worth his salt should have no problem working on them ... I find it easier than the other crap becasue they respond very positively to any changes you make. ie you want stiffer rebound you change the shims and you get a stiffer rebound, with the other stuff its a mixed bag and often things don't work out how they should for a few attempts because of bad pressure balance and silly design quirks. the 2010 RMZ450 shock is a perfect example there is one in my bin done about 15 revalves on it had to redesign the compression adjuster to make it semi consitent and then tried a TTX shock .... oh baby
dunno if anyone reads ADB but Terry Hay has a paragraph or two on his new Dyno... can be used for finding cavitation he reckons. he explain the problem well and while i don't agrree that you can't see if you have cavitation just by watching ... I can.
you have to see the advantage as with TTX there is no cavitation to watch for.
if you're really stuck spiderpig I'll do them for you
Thanks for your offer bushy!
In your opinion would i be better off buying TTX from someone like Harry Reed in the US who could set them up with the right springs and valving (prob cost more) or go fleebay then have to probally have to change springs and possibly valving (maybe cost less)?
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
Harry sets them up "free" ie his price includes the setup and i believe he is one of the cheapest you can find perhaps cheaper than fleabay. I have trouble getting hold of him so Ive never bought stuff through him.
David Brehrends at fastbikeindustries.com is easier to get hold of a little more pricey I think but great to deal with.
the cheap ebay stuff is from Active ride suspension and is even cheaper than Hardracing. have dealt with hardracing, thats where I got my TTX back when they first came out. its a bit tricky with them to organize payment/shipping etc.
Harry or David should be able to get you set up with the least fuss and thats what I'd be doing, just be as descriptive as possible about the terrain and your speed.
they all should be selling the 09 TTX stuff very cheap as the new stuff has been updated, new forks have seperate rebound adjuster and the shock has new external valve bodies.
David Brehrends at fastbikeindustries.com is easier to get hold of a little more pricey I think but great to deal with.
the cheap ebay stuff is from Active ride suspension and is even cheaper than Hardracing. have dealt with hardracing, thats where I got my TTX back when they first came out. its a bit tricky with them to organize payment/shipping etc.
Harry or David should be able to get you set up with the least fuss and thats what I'd be doing, just be as descriptive as possible about the terrain and your speed.
they all should be selling the 09 TTX stuff very cheap as the new stuff has been updated, new forks have seperate rebound adjuster and the shock has new external valve bodies.
Think if i go down the TTX path from what ive heard could be worth going for the 2010 gear, has a few nice changes apparently. Have to see who will do a nice deal on the runout 2010 (Berg or Kato) and go from there. Normally one of the 2 will start throwing in some nice discounts on the runout models or hard parts gear thrown in after the new models arrive
DaleEO said:
Hey Dale, How much longer before your suspension thingy will be released?
I am itching to ring up a suspension guru to tune my suspension, but was waiting to see what is coming out from 70 Degree Racing first. Plus I don't really know any suspension gurus. Would love to see inside Bushie’s shed and get him to twist my clickers, but he lives on the other side of the planet in a land far far away.
I remember when I upgraded my MAP Switch, a couple of days later 70 Degree Racing released one. DOH!
My 2010 with OC forks is not bad in the slow technical riding on the west coast, but if I take a trip to Baja this winter I may not be too happy in the whoops with the OC forks.
Now that the 2011s are out with the CC forks - has anyone compared them to the OC forks?
What exactly is different in part #s between the CC and OC forks? Do I have to buy the whole fork or can I just buy parts to make the switch from OC to CC?
Now that the 2011s are out with the CC forks - has anyone compared them to the OC forks?
What exactly is different in part #s between the CC and OC forks? Do I have to buy the whole fork or can I just buy parts to make the switch from OC to CC?
Similar threads
Register CTA
Register on Husaberg Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.
Sign Up
