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tensiosner blade

Taffy

Taffy

Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 774+
Ely, England
i have an '02 650 here with a straight black tensioner blade. it is both thicker than the old yellow blade but also thinner than my banana blade which is fat in the middle and thin on the ends.

what is the history on this tensioner and has it been superceded?

regards

Taffy
 
I think its the standard one, on newer than 04 maybe on 03 to. the sparepart manual has the year off change.

Regards
 
they changed in '05 but from what to what?

sorry but i don't know because the diagram isn't trustworthy!

regards

Taffy
 
Re: RE: tensiosner blade

Taffy said:
they changed in '05 but from what to what?

sorry but i don't know because the diagram isn't trustworthy!

regards

Taffy
Click to expand...

I have a picture in my gallery on a blade, This was taken out and changed on my 650 -04, with untouched (Oem) engine.
Part nr 800.36.002.000. And in 04 part catalog its new 04.

Regards
 
RE: Re: RE: tensiosner blade

ok steely

my short stumpy banana tensioner is coded on it 800.36.002.000 and is the same as yours.

the one i have pulled out is coded: 820.36.002.000 so the difference is the first part of the code?

the '07 manual says the part is from '05+ and is: 820.36.002.000 so it looks like they have gone from the banana (of yours and mine) back to a fat tensioner that is however very straight like the earlier yellow ones?

thanks for the help.

regards

Taffy

regards
 
Re: RE: Re: RE: tensiosner blade

Taffy said:
ok steely

my short stumpy banana tensioner is coded on it 800.36.002.000 and is the same as yours.

the one i have pulled out is coded: 820.36.002.000 so the difference is the first part of the code?

the '07 manual says the part is from '05+ and is: 820.36.002.000 so it looks like they have gone from the banana (of yours and mine) back to a fat tensioner that is however very straight like the earlier yellow ones?

thanks for the help.

regards


Taffy

regards
Click to expand...
Interesting wonder what the subject that they change it again?

Regards
 
I also wonder if the front guide should be canged in pair, if you change the tensioner?
or the diffrent front ones look the same??

Regards
 
i know that the drive side had a new code "'04" but i see no difference yet?

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
i know that the drive side had a new code "'04" but i see no difference yet?

regards

Taffy
Click to expand...

Maybe just the number new and new color (black) 04-, The older ones isn't black? or do i remember wrong? just seen it on pictures.

Regards
 
anyone with a view on why they went from short and curved to long, straight and thick?

what's the difference between code:"800" and "820". i take it that the 820 is a superceding part?

c'mon you buggers! and someone produce a photo of them together?

regards

Taffy
 
ok ignore me. batsards!!!

look here is another one. i have found two tensioner blades where the top at the pivot bolt has been shaved right back to the bolt nearly. now was this to allow the camchain to fit? i know that some have struggled to fit a new chain. or was it because like me you feel that the tensioner blade actually pushes against the chain too high up?

surely a tensioner blade is there to stop fluttering so as to ensure accurate valve timing and good running? there is no need to push on the chain at the top BUT there is plenty of reason to push it halfway down the backside???

it appears to me that the tensioner bldes are all wrong and as they use proprietory parts - they still haven't fitted the right one?

regards

Taffy
 
*******s! you did!

you'll get it for this. i'll fit you all up!

ok. now then. i will produce a photo later i hope but i think we need to stop using the "black banana blade" as the contact point with the chain is ALL WRONG.

essentially the chain is being pushed starting 4cm down to 9cm down the back run of the chain yet the distance between sprockets is 20cm.

the contact point is very near the top yet the blade is being pushed nearer the other end. this is akin to putting a 3 foot lever under the rim of awheel and prewssing down on the tyre. YOU GET MASSIVE LEVERAGE!

then add to that the fact that the blades are fatter than the originals and that makes the springs too strong. the springs are too strong anyway.

THE STRAIGHT BLACK BLADE
i have found two engines with the top of the straight black blade shaved? this is because there is no 'middle' rump to the blade and the first thing to contact the chain is virtually the pivot bolt! back to the problem of the BBB above!!!!!!! except that someone somewhere has been modifying them and knew about the problem!

THIS ISN'T RIGHT!!!!

did i not see recently a straight black blade that someone had heated and crooked in the middle?

regards

Taffy
 
From my gallery(click the images for the fullsize):
The first photo gives you an overall impression of how close the blade comes to the chain at the top. the pressure is applied right at the other end.



The following two should be enlarged and then you'll see that i have marked the start and finish contact points with a pencil. the chain is under a lot of pressure right up at one end as you can see!





The last photo shows the chain on the bench and the contact area which is actually quite small! sorry about the quality!




And two from weed:

The first one has three photos from weed in it. one is the latest straight black, then a curved yellow and then finally a standard yellow.



Don't the two yellows look frail? can you understand now why sparks and i took 10-15mm off the 50mm long cam tensioner spring?

below is the straight black that supercedes the banana black. i think they are both the wrong shape and so does weed - he has bent his......!

http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?set_a ... _photo.php

so where is the contact point on the chain, weed?

regards

Taffy
 
thanks json for uploading the above! ....and now folks have a look.

i screwed with weeds first photo but they are next to each other in the gallery that you'll get when you click on the second?

so should the contact point be in the middle? for the chains sake i thought that it should be pressed gently along it's entire length but the two black designs mean we have a fixed shape?

if we can't press it along it's length then surely the middle is best and then worry about the pressure you can exert AFTERWARDS? with the middle in contact and not the end, my maths from school tells me we have (halved) reduced the pressure exerted?

i think weeds blade should be bent but near the tail and not the head!

just to repeat: i've had two blades in that have been filed away right up near the sprocket to make sure the chain doesn't touch at all! anyone else had this?

if the force produced is in the middle we can get rid of the tyre lever effect. this is when you get a 3 foot bar under the rim of the wheel and press down on the tyre right at the end. well we have the same effect!

massive force exerted to a contact point near the pivot from a powerful spring right at the other end!

if we half the force to do the job correctly then the chain will be under less pressure and so will the frail 61905 (just 9mm wide) bearing on the waterpump/bottom sprocket. ask dusty what he thinks of that bearing? PS it fragged his engine.

regards

Taffy
 

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