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tear down and back

Joined Mar 2005
142 Posts | 0+
Akron, Ohio
My question: what is the hour time to tear down splitting the cases 8O to reassembly timing valve adjustments oil to ride? :D (I am very mechanicly inclined) :D I have never split cases till Husaberg 600 :oops: with much thanks to Parsko on tools :) however I still do not know yet how the peice of pipe in pic puts cases back together :oops:
Thanks
Earl
 
Yo Earl!

Okay, how does it work. First, did you read my webpage with the instructions??? www.parsko.com/Personal/Husaberg/husaberg.html (I think)

In theory, that tube could be around 3 inches shorter. Okay, you are doing the first side of the crank, into the first half of the case (most likely the flywheel side first.

Bearings all in. Slide crank onto bearing just to the point where it wants to begin its "press fit" into the bearing. So, this means part of it will stick out through the case on the outside. Slide the tube over the crank, so it is sitting against the outside of the case. Slide in the 6" long x 1" dia bolt, with the head of the bolt first (of which you have welded on the appropriate nut to thread onto that side of the case, should be left handed thread for the flywheel side). Thread the nut/bolt assembly onto the threads on the end of the crank. Slide the tapered roller bearing (AND RACE) onto the shaft of the 6"long x 1" dia bolt. It should sit on the end face of the 2" dia tube. I think at this point you ahve the option of using a washer over the bearing. Place the nut of the 1" dia bolt onto the 1" dia bolt and thread it on down to the bearing.

At this point, you should have the crank sitting around 1/2" from being fully installed into the bearing. The tube/1"bolt/tapered bearing assembly should be attached on the outside.

TIGHTEN THE 1" BOLT. This draws the crank into the bearing.

Remove apparatus, and repeat (using the OTHER 6" long by 1" dia bolt with the right hand thread nut welded onto it) on the other side.

Is this still unclear? Let me know, I can try to take a picture of the apparatus in different conditions. Draw it out on a piece of paper, it will become clear to you.

-Parsko
 
BTW,

Total time to put back together, gap valves (when off the bike is WAAAAAY easier), then put in bike. Probably 8 hours, with the bike sitting overnight for gasket sealant to dry.

Once you get one side of the crank in, then populate the gearbox and other crap, use loctite, install other side of crank, is around 2 hours. Let that sit overnight for the MOTOSEAL to dry.

Then finish building the clutch and crap out on that side. Jug, head, rocker, water pump, cam, MOTOSEAL the water pump and rocker cover. 3 hours. Let sit overnight to dry.

Gap valves, double check all torques. Install in bike. 3 hours. Running. Break in with many oil changes. One after every heat cycle. Probably overkill, but I am ANAL, not ****, ANAL, when it comes to this stuff. Too much can't hurt.

Got it???

-Parsko
 
fully and completly understood **** not anal :twisted: ok gota get
backwards thread nut for re assembly weilded mine to pipe can't grind
it off ok ok just kidding I have this cool hardware store I found here
going to him for a chat about threads and direction lefty tighty righty
loosey yeaa well I hope to have parts some beer and late nights too
bad you do not live closer could use extra hands

see ya soon
 

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