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tappets with feeler gauges

Taffy

Taffy

Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 774+
Ely, England
just thought i'd mention why i've never done my tappets with feeler a gauge. having done fiesta tappets in the 70's and 80's we had a similar 1/4 turn method and the reason was that the tappet pads used to wear and you couldn't even get a gauge in even though the tappets were rattling!

back to a husey....well a look at any tappet pad will tell you that your feeler gauge is always going to get the wrong reading. they all become cupped and worn concave-ly. they can be replaced seperately.

regards

Taffy
 
I'm with you.
Screw the feeler gauges. I doubt that you could get them accurate with gauges even if there was no wear on the pads.

Coops
 
I could never do it with the feeler gauges either and either way I would have wrecked my top BECAUSE I WAS TOO STUPID TO NOT TIGHTEN ONE OF THE NUTS.

But I heard Taffy was also part of the stupid club.
 
Froggy

so what has your stupid comment got to do with the subject of this thread?

as it happens i think people do do the job properly but that for some reason they have to be very, tight and not to a more normal torque.

regards

Taffy
 
you get better results doing the tappets by feel , keep the feeler gauge for motors with shim type adjustment .
 
Just to clarify. On the Bergs is it a 1/4 or 1/8 turn to set the tappets?
 
1/8th is about right. you can afford to be a little generous from there but not tighter.

regards

Taffy
 
Note that KTM's (with the same thread pitch) use 1/6 turn for their recommended 0.005" tappet clearance.
 
I'm doing the valves right now - realtime 5.00pm uk. In the hard starting guide it talks about gently adjusting the screw until it just touches the valve (perhaps 3/4's of a sixth (ie flat of the hex)...how do you know when it touches the valve..if I turn 1/2 turn forward or back it all feels the same - fairly stiff... I have located TDC.. don't want to do any damage.
 
The adjustment screw should turn very easily and smoothly down to zero clearance. I like to go to zero clearance and then back off a little several times before making the final adjustment. If the adjustment screw turns stiffly, that means that the valve is beginning to lift off the valve seat. Make sure that you are at TDC on the compression stroke where all valves should be closed and ready for adjustment.
 
Hi Chas, the pistin is definately TDC both off the flywheel marks and having gently poked a small plastic stick down to the barrel. When I turn the screw either way, there is slight resistance. I was expecting it to be loose like the nut and then hit the valve & stop. Should I just slacken the screw right off (several turns if necessary & see what happens ??)
 
Arkley
Presuming, you have released the spring on the manual decomp arm and adjusted cable play to be sure nothing is affecting the setup, then you can undo the nuts and the screws will usually release. They usually tighten up during riding and are stiff at first, but then you can soon find the 'biting' point as you return them.
BTW. I push the arm of the manual decomp so it's flat side is flat to rocker when adjusting.
I do the 1/4 turn back method.
Have fun - you will know when their right - She puuuurrrs at ya
Regards
Ady
PS. Welcome to the site
 
Sorted - I backed the screw off aprox 2 turns on each valve before the bolt came free & loose like I was originally expecting. Just a confidence thing. If you're new to something & it doesn't respond like the manual says, you get a bit jumpy. I'll let you know once I've got it all back together (tomorrow probably). Perhaps I'll start a blog "idiots guide to owing a Husaberg!!"
 
If you had to back off the adjusters two full turns, then something isn't right. Either the valves are way too tight and are actually off their seats or the engine still isn't set at TDC on the compression stroke. Remember that this is a 4 stroke, and there are two TDC's. A straw doesn't distinguish the 'correct' TDC. At the 'correct' TDC, all the valves should be closed. You may need to rotate the crank 360 degrees to get the 'correct' TDC.
 
Chas said:
If you had to back off the adjusters two full turns, then something isn't right. Either the valves are way too tight and are actually off their seats or the engine still isn't set at TDC on the compression stroke. Remember that this is a 4 stroke, and there are two TDC's. A straw doesn't distinguish the 'correct' TDC. At the 'correct' TDC, all the valves should be closed. You may need to rotate the crank 360 degrees to get the 'correct' TDC.
Click to expand...

One an put his finger on the spark plug hole to feel if the air is coming out under the compression.
 
Yeah Yeah, I know....now....so used to 2 stroke, had TDC for sure but it was the wrong one - not the compression one. After my last post, a mate came round with his torque wrench and noted exactly the same as you. Anyway, all re-set again and fingers crossed for tomorrow when I'll complete the job. Thanks.
 
arkley123 said:
Yeah Yeah, I know....now....so used to 2 stroke, had TDC for sure but it was the wrong one - not the compression one. After my last post, a mate came round with his torque wrench and noted exactly the same as you. Anyway, all re-set again and fingers crossed for tomorrow when I'll complete the job. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Don't worry, I've been there. They all told me to set my piston at TDC, forgot to tell me on compression stroke, and from there I had 50% chance to get it wrong, which I did.
 

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