suspension damping for me FC501

not the best way but the easiest is to use less oil in the forks

new oil will help

also check main spring preload (see the owners DOC on LHS of page)

and check the fork tubes are not binding from being misaligned, undo the RHS axle clamp bolts, spread with a screwdriver and push down on the forks with the brake on.

read the fork tuning for enduros thread one guy with a 2000 model used more shims in the BV for a smoother ride

i have the 2001 model & i'm taking it, you would have very similar internals to mine.
have a look at the owners doc for a few ideas.main problem i have found with the early *********** forks is the mv/rebound tap has no chamfer for mv shims to flex.this alone causes a lot of harshness in the 1st few inches of travel.(do the zp3 mod)the later model *********** forks has this mod from std.pretty much all fine tuning from there.
many things can be done just by trial & error if you are prepared to put in the time to make a change then test it over different tracks,just don't expect it to get it right 1st time.
..weed..

the top of the fork is for rebound damping, the bottom for compression damping. plus means more damping, minus = less (rebound or compression)

use this sequence and start over:
loosen the fork axle clamp bolts on the right side (as you sit on the bike) only. (don't loosen the triple clamp)
push violently up and down on the forks using the bars while holding the front brake. retighten the clamp.
put both the top adjuster (rebound) and the bottom adjuster (compression ) in the middle of their adjustment. (crank the adjusting screw all the way in, and count the number of clicks to full out. wind it halfway back in).
ride it and see what you have over a set of moderate whoops at speed. make small changes one at a time, either compression or rebound - both forks. constantly bleed air from forks. keep notes as to where you are (clicks in or out) keep written notes as to what results were felt over the same course.
you'll get there