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Suspension advice

Joined Nov 2010
70 Posts | 1+
PERTH WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Hi,
Can anyone tell me what to set on the front forks on a 2011 570 to make the bike lighter and pop up over long whoops instead of hitting every whoop with the front end not poping up .
I don't know whether to soften rebound or damping in forks.
 
it will be one of these two or a combination
1) soften the rebound
2) harden the compression

this makes the bike sit higher on the front and not to go so deep when it hits something.

with that in mind you need to remember that the 570 front end isn't very hard on big hits so you may want to try to harden the front two ways:

1) more preload
2) as said, more comp

if you find you have shedloads of front grip on tight corners you can try transferring weight back for a similar effect by raising the clamps on the legs.

the only way to know is for you to 'suss' which of these can be done without hampering you or better still that if you do one of them it also helps the bikes handling etc and not just your riding comfort!

regards

Taffy
 
Hi taffy just to give you some history I've had the bike revalved and resprung for enduro long deep whoops boggy and some hard pack got .49s in the front and a p15 progressive in the rear I weigh 105kg with all gear on with stock tank the settings are 20 clicks from hard on top of the forks and 15 clicks from hard at the bottom of the forks they arrest to the top of the fork in the triple clamp and offset at the back of the clamp.
In the rear the high speed is set at 1 and 3/4 from hard and top is 16 clicks from hard and bottom is 23 clicks from hard. The bike runs straight in the rear through deep whoops but it is alot of work to hold it as the front end hits the whoops hard and won't pop up at all which makes me slow down because it is to rough what would you suggest to have the clickers at so I can get up and go because at the moment i can't .
It seems to be a harsh ride all round and Ive got three weeks to get it right
 
Bike is not balanced with that P15 spring in the rear, P25 is more like what you want or 8.4 straight spring. I now have P20 and .47's for about the same weight as you. Bike is still a little undersprung but a heap better than what it was when i got it back from being revalved.

do you know what stacks you have fitted? if not, are you competent to strip it to find out. Isn't that hard and would certainly be easier to diagnose your problems. but first up have you talked to the guy who revalved it about your problems? who was it?
 
titan said:
Hi taffy just to give you some history I've had the bike revalved and resprung for enduro long deep whoops boggy and some hard pack got .49s in the front and a p15 progressive in the rear I weigh 105kg with all gear on with stock tank the settings are 20 clicks from hard on top of the forks and 15 clicks from hard at the bottom of the forks they arrest to the top of the fork in the triple clamp and offset at the back of the clamp.
In the rear the high speed is set at 1 and 3/4 from hard and top is 16 clicks from hard and bottom is 23 clicks from hard. The bike runs straight in the rear through deep whoops but it is alot of work to hold it as the front end hits the whoops hard and won't pop up at all which makes me slow down because it is to rough what would you suggest to have the clickers at so I can get up and go because at the moment i can't .
It seems to be a harsh ride all round and Ive got three weeks to get it right

I've no idea what a P15 or a P20 are? I've used Isopon's legendary P38 body filler and also I rather liked the P51 mustang - hell of an aircraft!

I run 48s and they may be too soft but I suspect the front damping has poor slow speed damping. I so 49s will be right if not they are also too weak as I weigh 100KG.

on the rear I have a 84 and that could do with being an 88 I reckon.

maybe someone can put numbers to the P springs....I no longer search the net due to a lack of time.

regards

Taffy
 
Thanks anyway taffy just to let you know the p stands for progressive as it gets firmer rather than a straight rate spring I'll go out tomorrow and soften the comp on forks and firm up the top clickers if that doesn't work I'll reverse it. By the way the static sag and race sag is correct with all my gear on so the spring must be the right rate and if you reckon the.48s are a bit soft the front springs must be right.I suppose I just have to keep doing trial and error .
Chad from chads offroad setups did my suspension and has been extremely helpful on the phone as he is on one side of aus and I'm in Perth it's hard to explain what I'm feeling but he set up suspension for Ben grabham ,brad wiliscroft ,and Toby price who have won the finke desert race which is wat I'm doing. I'm thought I'd also try and get some feedback from the site as well.

Cheers
 
I appreciate that P is progressive but you should therefore have the two rates that the spring starts at and finishes at? at least we'd have some idea then.

your rebound is on the top of your forks
your rebound is on the bottom of your shock
there is no race sag in the books for the forks but I trust you meant the tail end when you said the numbers crunch ok?

I know they say you should lose 25% on sitting on it but I like to lose less than that. mine is not 70mm but more like 50mm half the time. that is only 15-20% but it worked on the last one not this one.

I'm telling you: you might mnot think that I'm a suspension expert and you know what - you'd be right but I know these bikes coz I ride them? I know their characteristics and now tell me this

DOES YOUR SPECIALIST?

now if you go up to him and say, husabergs plough through he'll then be an expert because all his customers are telling him what happens.

so he becomes an expert by being told what happened. that's the cart infront of the horse!

on the other hand, I now have a problem that he the expert can improve better than I know how. because he is an expert on the internals.

WHAT A PHUQED UP BUSINESS SUSPENSION IS!


regards

Taffy
 
the bike will not be balanced with the P15, it will either be like a chopper all raked out and sagging in the butt or you would have had to wind in a heap of preload to get it near the correct sag settings.

am i correct saying you couldn't get close to the reccomended 35mm/105mm sag settings?
how many mm of shock preload do you have now?
 
Cheers for your advice i will be checking the sag settings again this week but it isnt sitting like a chopper just wondering why he would recommend a spring that isnt suited to my weight .
 
titan said:
Cheers for your advice i will be checking the sag settings again this week but it isnt sitting like a chopper just wondering why he would recommend a spring that isnt suited to my weight .

I had the same spring reccomended for my weight which is 95kg without gear.
i now have .47's and P20 and it's still undersprung. I need .49's and heavier rear
 
Went out for another ride and I was advised to turn the preload out to full turns out . It doesn't feel balanced . He was quite surprised that my mate with a ktm 300 was running a p30 and .48s he's about 126kg with gear on. He has a p25 I'll borrow and see how it goes .
He also told me to change my gearing to 13 49 instead of 13 45 .
What do you think.
 
still don't know what those numbers crunch too but yeh! better with a 20-25. I'd rather have a hard spring on with the preload backed off any day of the week.

If I need an 88 for sure then you need that and some. the 49s seem good to me.

regards

taffy
 
Cheers taffy if I'm not happy with the spring I'll try a straight rate spring so would that be an 88 for my weight 105kg with gear on.
 
I'd put money on that being lovely with not much preload - say 6mm?

regards

taffy
 
Hopefully taffy so if I go up 2 spring rates I don't have to revolve again do I .
 
hopefully not but as I''m discovering with the front forks - they can genuinely valve them wrong. so far I have felt the rear shock to be very good.

regards

Taffy
 

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