Hey all,
I posted this in the section about my aux tank install, but I don't think many have seen that last bit of info I posted about my relocation of the ignition....so here is a little repeat. Hope this helps a few more people with the aux tank:
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I finished the aux tank install! Obviously it took extra effort with a heat gun to get all to fit properly. One of the harder items to install were those two adel clamps on the left and right side of the tank. After some real "force fitting", the clamps finally took a good "set" and now look like they actually belong there.
As to the ignition, I came up with a location and mount that I don't think has ever been tried before. What I did was to remove that worthless top vent petcock on the aux tank, tap the center hole for a 1/8" pipe plug (the allen socket type), and screwed the plug down until it's flush with the top surface of the tank (sealed with teflon tape too). This then allowed me to use those two petcock mounting screws to hold a simple bracket I made to hold the ignition module right on top of the aux tank. The nose of the ignition is now real close to the aux tank cap with the wiring harness end just barely touching the foam air filter (perfect amount of room). This location doesn't require any lengthening of the ignition harness because it is so very close to the stock location....and actually looks factory. I also left the aux tank cap undrilled and then drilled my own 1/8" pipe threaded vent into the top rear corner of the tank. This location will also remove the most air from the tank. I used a small brass, right angle 1/8" pipe thread by 3/16" barbed fitting to allow for connection of the vent hose....which I then ran along the left side of the frame to finally "T" in with the original tank cap vent (I ran this vent line right along side the filter).
I'm too lazy to post pics (would take almost as long as it took to make the bracket), so I'll try to describe it here:
The ignition module bracket I made was from a simple strap of 1-1/2" wide by 4-1/2" long by 3/32 thick (.094" - 2.4mm), mild steel sheet metal. I left half of the 4-1/2" length (2-1/4") the full 1-1/2" wide, but reduced the remaining section (of the other 2-1/4") to only 1" wide. This 1" width is NOT centered, but rather all on one side. In other words, I cut away a 1/2" strip by 2-1/4" from one side only. I then copied the factory "arrowhead" shape of the original ignition mount to this narrowed section and cut it to match. I next drilled the holes required to match those available at the old petcock location, but these two holes are both centered along the edge of the wider section (along it's length, not the end). I then bent the "arrow head" shaped section back upon the wider 1-1/2" length, making it a narrow "U" bend with about a 1/4" radius at the bend. Because the screw holes are at the wider section, you can easily install the screws without interference with the "arrow head" end.
Once screwed down, I now had a very ridgid mount location only a few inches from the stock location. Since the ignition is now right between the two seat mount frame extensions (those short pipe pieces welded to inside of the frame), the seat has plenty of room at that location with NO seat mods needed. I just slipped the stock ignition mounting rubber over the new "arrow head" and viola (no....I don't play one), it looked FACTORY STOCK! I even painted it blue to match!!!
This install was MUCH easier than mounting the module up at the headlight....and looks far better too.
I posted this in the section about my aux tank install, but I don't think many have seen that last bit of info I posted about my relocation of the ignition....so here is a little repeat. Hope this helps a few more people with the aux tank:
-----------------------------------------
I finished the aux tank install! Obviously it took extra effort with a heat gun to get all to fit properly. One of the harder items to install were those two adel clamps on the left and right side of the tank. After some real "force fitting", the clamps finally took a good "set" and now look like they actually belong there.
As to the ignition, I came up with a location and mount that I don't think has ever been tried before. What I did was to remove that worthless top vent petcock on the aux tank, tap the center hole for a 1/8" pipe plug (the allen socket type), and screwed the plug down until it's flush with the top surface of the tank (sealed with teflon tape too). This then allowed me to use those two petcock mounting screws to hold a simple bracket I made to hold the ignition module right on top of the aux tank. The nose of the ignition is now real close to the aux tank cap with the wiring harness end just barely touching the foam air filter (perfect amount of room). This location doesn't require any lengthening of the ignition harness because it is so very close to the stock location....and actually looks factory. I also left the aux tank cap undrilled and then drilled my own 1/8" pipe threaded vent into the top rear corner of the tank. This location will also remove the most air from the tank. I used a small brass, right angle 1/8" pipe thread by 3/16" barbed fitting to allow for connection of the vent hose....which I then ran along the left side of the frame to finally "T" in with the original tank cap vent (I ran this vent line right along side the filter).
I'm too lazy to post pics (would take almost as long as it took to make the bracket), so I'll try to describe it here:
The ignition module bracket I made was from a simple strap of 1-1/2" wide by 4-1/2" long by 3/32 thick (.094" - 2.4mm), mild steel sheet metal. I left half of the 4-1/2" length (2-1/4") the full 1-1/2" wide, but reduced the remaining section (of the other 2-1/4") to only 1" wide. This 1" width is NOT centered, but rather all on one side. In other words, I cut away a 1/2" strip by 2-1/4" from one side only. I then copied the factory "arrowhead" shape of the original ignition mount to this narrowed section and cut it to match. I next drilled the holes required to match those available at the old petcock location, but these two holes are both centered along the edge of the wider section (along it's length, not the end). I then bent the "arrow head" shaped section back upon the wider 1-1/2" length, making it a narrow "U" bend with about a 1/4" radius at the bend. Because the screw holes are at the wider section, you can easily install the screws without interference with the "arrow head" end.
Once screwed down, I now had a very ridgid mount location only a few inches from the stock location. Since the ignition is now right between the two seat mount frame extensions (those short pipe pieces welded to inside of the frame), the seat has plenty of room at that location with NO seat mods needed. I just slipped the stock ignition mounting rubber over the new "arrow head" and viola (no....I don't play one), it looked FACTORY STOCK! I even painted it blue to match!!!
This install was MUCH easier than mounting the module up at the headlight....and looks far better too.
