Subframe tank and Safari pump housing

I use the combo subframetank + safari pump housing. Works just fine, the subframetank fills up quicker than I thought I also like to have the valve there and it was already installed.

Safari tand and subframe tank hose

Just purchased a 570 that was fitted with a 70 degree tank. Bike also came with a safari front tank that had not been fitted. How on earth do you get all the fuel lines to fit. Even the fuel line for the sub tank had nearly rubbed through the shock. Help. Or do i just turf the sub tank to keep things simple.

It's possible to do it afaik! There are a few tricks to it. I can't remember off-hand, just remember reading stuff when catching up on threads after I bought mine.

You might find something in these two threads:

Husaberg 70 Degree Owners Thread! - ADVrider
The Husaberg 70º FE Adventure Traveler Thread - ADVrider

I am planning to put a 70 degree and a safari rear tank on my Husaberg FE 450 this winter.

Has something to be done differently for the installation of the 70 degree tank in order to install the rear safari?

Can somebody give me some information?

thanks in advance

I remember this being discussed in the advrider threads, for what it's worth It wasn't too bad a job as I recall

good luck! should be an awesome setup ...

Well if there is anyone willing to get rid of their tanks, especially the front safari ones, I am very interested

zimi said:

I am planning to put a 70 degree and a safari rear tank on my Husaberg FE 450 this winter.

Has something to be done differently for the installation of the 70 degree tank in order to install the rear safari?

Can somebody give me some information?

thanks in advance

Click to expand...

You have a choice in what equipment you will use at the fuelpump housing. The Safari uses a small block you attach to the oem plastic fuel housing. That one has a valve so you can turn off the fuel from the extra tanks. Can be handy if something leaks. BUT the 70 degree comes with a nice aluminium housing. No valve but very sturdy and nice.

Whatever choice you take you install the 70 degree as normal. You need to tee in the safari tank on the blue hose that goes from the 70 degree to the oem tank. That's all.

I'm using the 70 degree alu housing as I had the feeling the small safari valve could more easily clog up if any debris or slush try to pass through.

I have not yet installed both at the same time, but I can't see any reason the 70 degree is different. Possible the vent hose at the top of the 70 degree might interfere? I'm not to impressed by the straight nipple, would prefer a 90 degree.

thanks for your answer. My goal is to use both together. I will have a better idea when I will habe both of them in front of my eyes.

Will post here how it ends up.

Why did you not use both together? Is ther any disadvantage?

As I drive enduro with that bike I don't need nor want that extra weight and volume back on the bike. The safaris are relatively big and clumsy if you want the bike to be nimble.

The reason I have the safari tanks is that my friend and I came up with a plan to drive on the ice from the island of Åland to Finland through the archipelago. Then I need all that fuel so I don't have to plan fuel stops on the way. We had a very good year with thick ice when we came up with the idea, but I didn't receive the tanks in time so I missed that opportunity. Since then the winters have not been stable enough for the ice to become reliable all the way. they have promised a cold winter in Jan-Feb now so I'm hoping to do that trip this winter.

And who knows, one day I might join a rally raid or go out on an adventure! Then the tanks will come in handy. I like to have them as it's just a question of time until I need them and I bought them when I had that extra money as I knew it was "now or never"


This is a trip my friend took on the ice which made us want to drive with our bikes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1gnwmmqYNDk
When it's a good winter the ice is really thick and the state plow roads all the way which are checked for good ice thickness. You drive on your own risk and no insurances are valid. But imagine going flat out in a place like that. There is a speed limit, max 50 km/h but that is because the heavier cars will make cracks in the ice if they go to fast and over time the ice will be weak. But a bike is not a problem. On that youtube you see mostly open sea but inside the archipelago the road is winding it's way between the islands. We did a shorter run as a test and then we used GPS and no roads. It's amazing to go flat out over snow covered ice with just an arrow on the GPS to show you where you should go

Hi guys,

so I installed the 70 degree subframe tank.

As you can see, there is almost no space left to find a proper way to fit a T link to connect the rear safari to the blue tube...

I am really not sure what to do so far.

any advices welcome.

I need a strong solution, and as well, that I need to remove the rear safari, the fuel doesn't leak.

Best would be to use the same kind of quick couplings as for the 70 degr tank.

But the hose diameter of the safari is smaller.

What if you install the safari valve on the 70 degree housing? Two ports into the alu block. Then you can have a short hose to the side with a quick connect attached to it for the Safari lines.
If not maybe an Y-link might be easier to fit than the T-link?

Hi Jon, yes that's an option. But the space is very limited. I have to be very careful that if I do something like this, it doesn't rub against the plastic of the tank or the cables... I guess I would put something smaller than the safari tap. I am not sure there is space for it.

I would myself put a Y-link into the coiled blue hose. As you say it's not much space there.