Ok I did the swap to 15x38 ,Cheers to you Goran .I like it way better 1st & 2nd nice . Rode my longest wheelie ever today from 2nd thru 3rd . Although in a mathematical equation it is close .the power delivery is lots different .
yep,yep its all good now . just come back from lunch & again 2nd 3rd gear wheelie long long time .6th is lots better
I just removed my 16t front sprocket. Damn that was difficult to get off... I cannot imagine that a 17t fits.
Sorry but i was wondering if you could tell me how yo work the gear ratio's out and what should they be at? ThanksJohnf3 said:
Robg187 said:
Rob,
No apologies necessary. To figure out the final drive ratio, simply divide the number of teeth on the rear sprocket by the number of teeth on the front sprocket. That will tell you how many revolutions the front sprocket makes to every one revolution of the rear sprocket.
If you'd like to be able to figure out how fast your bike will go at a given rpm check out my post here: http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?name= ... 7547#87547
You can find the primary ratio in your owners manual, as well as the gear ratios of the transmission. So you can figure out what speed the bike will be going at what ever rpm you choose, and by simply inserting the gear ratio (second number divided by the first, for example on the 08's 6th gear is 27:20, so 20 divide by 27='s .74) of what ever gear you choose, you can figure out what speed the bike will be going in any gear you select depending on the rpm you select.
This formula is not only helpful for determining cruising speed vs. engine rpm, but, also for being able to see how fast the bike would be going in first gear if you are trying to determine whether or not you would be geared too high for slower technical riding. Once you start using the formula it's easy, I can see where it might be a bit daunting at first.
FYI The difference in miles per hour in 6ht gear, at 7000 rpm between a 16/40(2.50:1) and 15/38(2.53:1) is 1.37mph.
This is the 17 tooth Husky 4 stroke sprocket on the '98 model. I think it fits on pre-2001 models because the cable operated clutch is snugger in the engine case than the hydraulic slave cylinder of the later models. Even so, the chain licks the case around this area.Vegard said:
Sorry the swingarm ain't there at the moment. If it was it would show that you have to trim the chain slider to fit the sprocket.
You can see the 1mm thick shim washer between the circlip & sprocket to fit the narrower 4T sprocket onto the 'berg. This leaves the c/l of the sprocket a couple of mm further out than standard and increases clearance of the chain on the engine case.
Attachments
Dale thanks for the info, Just one last question please.
say i got a 15t on the front and go bigger on the back does this give me more pull off power and less top end, and if i go lower on the back does it give me less but more top end?
say i got a 15t on the front and go bigger on the back does this give me more pull off power and less top end, and if i go lower on the back does it give me less but more top end?
Hey Robq, A few little bits of info i can maybe help you with ...
The way i remember it is this: (its just what works for me)
Motorcross bikes have massive rear sprockets that are like dinner plates .... they accelerate like mad - SO going up on the rear sprocket (more like a crosser) makes for more acceleration. Going down on the rear sprocket is obviously going for more top speed.
The OPPOSITE is true of the front sprocket. If you go UP on the front it gives more top end and going down gives you more acceleration.
Another little guide i use is that dropping/raising ONE tooth on the front is the same as raising/dropping THREE on the rear.
It isnt a perfect ratio but is good just as a guide when altering for more top end/acceleration
hope this helps
The way i remember it is this: (its just what works for me)
Motorcross bikes have massive rear sprockets that are like dinner plates .... they accelerate like mad - SO going up on the rear sprocket (more like a crosser) makes for more acceleration. Going down on the rear sprocket is obviously going for more top speed.
The OPPOSITE is true of the front sprocket. If you go UP on the front it gives more top end and going down gives you more acceleration.
Another little guide i use is that dropping/raising ONE tooth on the front is the same as raising/dropping THREE on the rear.
It isnt a perfect ratio but is good just as a guide when altering for more top end/acceleration
hope this helps
Oh and about the 17t front sprocket fitting, i have run a 16t and i had to undo the chain guide and chain guard to get my 16 on so i cant imagine trying to get a 17 on !!!
Similar threads
Register CTA
Register on Husaberg Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.
Sign Up
