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Sticky rebound needle

Joined Oct 2006
746 Posts | 1+
Kangaroo Island, South Australia
Dear Berg brothers,

I have what could be a dumb *** question, I am hoping someone may shed some light on correcting my situation.

Background:
I recently had my forks 'serviced' - which seemed to consist of replacing seals and renewing fluids.

The mechanic that did this returned the invoice saying that the left fork leg rebound needle and spring must have been dropped out while draining the cartridge in a previous service and lost - which, from new, has never been apart.

He ordered me a new needle, o-ring and spring, which I followed the manuals to re-fit, but found that the re-assembled adjuster rod would not reach the right depth in the cartridge tube ! on investigation, I had the '07 parts, not the '03 parts that were installed in my '05 bikes forks... so we got that sorted and got the '03 needle, o-ring and spring, which I tried to re-fit, but with the same problem.

I eventually got curious after pondering for many nights, figuring the needle was still down there in the rebound tap so 'adjusted' the adjuster rod of the fork, so it was a close, but tight enough grip on the 'locator pin' on the needle & once on, worked it gently till I retrieved the needle, then manufactured a high tensile aluminium wire rod with a small hook to grapple the spring and pull it up out of the rebound tap & cartridge. (all done in the intact fork leg).

there was plenty of gunge that had held the spring stiff, this is I guess why there was no discernable movement in the adjuster rod (and why the needle and spring didn't come out).

Ive since cleaned it all out as best I can and attempted to re-fit the new needle assembly, spring etc.... I now have the movement in the adjuster rod, which is great so I can reasonably believe that the needle will compress the spring to close the bottom hole in the rebound tap, but the spring doesn't return the needle back (obviously making this assessment from measurements on the adjuster rod).

The Dumb *** question:
Should the rebound needle spring have enough preload to return the needle all the way out, or does the o-ring give enough resistance to let it 'hang' at the point it was inserted to ? (and relies on the back pressure of the oil to help force it open?)

If it should return, then I think I may have a bit more gunge in there that is catching on the shoulder of the needle or something ?

If any of the suspension fettlers have any clues, I would really appreciate any guidance.

Cheers !
Azza.
 
Hi Azza

its a relatively tight fit and the oil pressure does indeed push up on the needle

with that though the forks are piss easy to take apart and if you are concerned about it the only way to be sure is to strip them yourself and check the ID of the main fork rod (14mm diam steel) isn't going rusty

how do they ride though?

if the bike works nice just leave it I reckon
 
Thanks Bushy... I feel better about the whole situation with what you have said, I was thinking of linishinf a smidge off the shoulder if the needle to make sure it runs free(er)...
It used to handle good, especially when you're in the groove, riding harder, but I believe never at its best, as u was able to compare it against my 2001 and another 2005 I used to look after...
I'll put her together & if its no chop, ill re-do them... You're right though, I was **** scared to play with them, but now I've started & examined them, its not so bad...
 
you could sand down the OD of the oring as a temporary solution ?

or find a smaller fat one and streach it over the needle

but its only about 10 min tops to strip 1 leg when you're on the ball
 
The resistance diesnt feel like metal on metal, as it would be if it was the needle shoulder against the tube or tap, but that's only the feeling on the end of a 510mm rod... It feels like o-ring resistance, but if you believe the drawings of the complete rebound tap in the doc, that is impossible... I might just linish the shoulder of the needle to remove any resistance on the side of the damper tube... What do you think? It's not really stuck or sticky, just 'hanging'....
 
just hanging is fine Azza :D

the main resistance is the oring between the inside of the MV or rebound tap and the rebound adjuster needle.

sometimes the inside of the tap or the steel damper rod is rusty and the needle gets stuck

if it moves a bit it will be fine till next time
 

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