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Steering head bearings

Joined Jan 2006
28 Posts | 0+
Notts UK
Hi All

Still rebuilding my 400/600 bitsaberg. Gradually the thing is coming back together. It now runs ( rather well actually), looks fairly good but I still need to get the gearbox sorted.

I now think theres a problem with the steering head tho'. If i tighten the locknut with the wheel off the floor, as per the manual, then it is too hard to turn. If I don't tighten it as much, so the steering is smooth, then grab the forks, I can pull them back and forwards, the head is loose. Diagnosis, knackered steering head bearings?

Are the steering head bearings readily available, and if so where (UK), and any idea how much. Is DCR the best bet UK-wise ? or are they fairly standard and therefore anywhere that does moto bearings should be able to source?

I have a 2000 frame with 99 swingarm, wheels and forks, I'm assuming that the taper roller bearing are the same size in all of them as they have the same part number in the 1999 and 2000 parts manual.

Also, do the bearings come as 2 parts? the bearing bit and the outer "cone" bit? as I swapped the bearings with the yokes from the 99 frame, but left the "cone bits" from the 2000 steering head in place. Never had a problem on the old 400? Are there any other bits I should know about like any spacers/washers? I assume the steering head locknut should have the side with the flange on it downmost, so it seats on the bearing??

I will get the bloody thing working if it kills me, which it probably will when I get it going too I suppose!!!!

Help/advice appreciated as always

Chris
 
There should be a spacer ring between the two cones. This is the preload that the manufracture set up the bearing with. These are a set and should be used as such, mixing and matching parts does not work..
 
As far as bearing availability, I am certain that the steering head bearings are identical to standard small trailer axle bearings, available at Checker, Auto Zone, etc. I recall buying such for my 2000 FE501. I see you are in the U.K. Then I say that they are a standard bearing, should be available at an auto parts store. I wouldn't pay Husaberg's price for them.
When you tighten the bearing, then the lockring, you increase the tightness by the width of the slop in the threads of the first bearing tightener. So, you have to set the bearing initially just a tad loose, then when you cinch the lockring, the setting will be close to where it ought. I personally like just a touch of drag in my steering head bearings, sort of a poor mans steering damper. Too much though, and you will develop high and low spots in the bearing, and steering will feel odd.
 

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