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stator rewind

Joined Dec 2003
31 Posts | 0+
Santa Rosa, USA
I just replaced a faulty stator in my 02 FE501E and am considering getting my old one re-wound to keep as a spare. Has anyone had this done in the U.S. with any success?
 
buster,is she a sparking once again?if so, i guess i will be seeing you at the fools gold.if not you are probably too pissed off to even talk to me right about now.i am in row34.i will keep my eyes open for you.dan. :D
 
I have been told that Berg stators are difficult if not impossible to rewind. Fact or fiction I don't know. You might try Baja Designs but I think that may be where I got my info.
 
Dan, I went into this Berg thing eyes wide open, don't worry about me being mad, I have no regrets, best bike I've ever riden.

Yes the new stator fixed it right up, but you won't see me this Sunday unless you have a really bad day. Somehow Brad and I ended up on row 63!
 
Though indeed possible it is expensive to rewind an SEM stator.

Pre Kokusan (SEM) stators as used on Husabergs have a solid state circuit encapsualted along with the windings. Stripping the potting material with heat in order to access the core for rewinding will damage said circuit.

Best Regards,
Dale
 
Dale
What is the function of said circuit? The older SEM one I did had a piece of printed circuit board in it purely as a termination strip that had no extra components. It wasn't necessary so I left it out in the rewind.

Also, I soaked mine in acetone & the potting sloughed off in layers. No heat was needed. Rewinding it was not that difficult a job, however it was time consuming.
 
Brad said:
Dale
What is the function of said circuit? The older SEM one I did had a piece of printed circuit board in it purely as a termination strip that had no extra components. It wasn't necessary so I left it out in the rewind.

Also, I soaked mine in acetone & the potting sloughed off in layers. No heat was needed. Rewinding it was not that difficult a job, however it was time consuming.

Hi Brad,
Thank you for the confirmation as I had questioned the circuit boards validity.

After considerable searching here in the states I finally found a reputable company willing to have a stab at rewinding the potted SEM stator. They cooked off the matrix and in the process charred the circuit strip beyond recognition. I was then informed that If I could determine what the damaged circuit boards function was and then supply a suitable replacement that they in turn would be happy to provide a rewind service charging an astonishing $300.00 each. Needles to say I passed as using OEM replacements was far more cost effective and convenient.

I am now in the midst of a suitable ignition upgrade which also addresses the stator.

In any event it is good to know that a source for rewinding does exist.
By the way... What was the sublet cost or did you invest the time and do it on your own?

Kindest Regards,
Dale
 
I did it my home workshop using very improvised and unprofessional gear. Didn't try to remove the matrix with heat as repeatedly soaking in acetone & peeling seemed to work OK, but was time consuming. The turn counter was the dials out of an electrical watthour meter. The motor to drive the bobbins was from a windscreen washer, powered by a ni-cad battery charger I built as a young-un. A couple of kg of wire, enough to wind 100 or so stators, cost $60 aussie. I mounted the spool of new wire on ballraces then layed & tensioned the wire onto the bobbins by hand as the motor drove them. While winding I lacquered the wire to set it into a solid, vibration resistant mass. After several stuff-ups I sorted out what to do and it only took a few minutes to wind each bobbin. After mounting and re-connecting the bobbins to new silicone hi-temp lead-in wire I encapsulated it by painting it with lots of layers of isonel red, an insulation paint they use on motor armatures.

The 12V windings survived the process unharmed and I refitted them without rewinding. They would probably be harder to wind than the magneto coils.

The job I did was not professional enough to sell to another person, but it worked well on my bike for a couple of years and was still working when the cops found a bloke riding it four months after it was stolen.
 
rewinding stators

I am now encouraged by Brad's undertaking. Beware old stators, here I come. I have one "bad" stator to experiment on. Does anybody else have a bad one to donate for testing? (I would need stators compatible with the 2002 400e so I can use my bike for testing it!). PM if you want to pursue. Regards, BD
 
Secondhand spare parts?

Hi,

I replaced my faulty stator/flywheel, 02 FE501E, two weeks ago. Seems to be common even if parts like that shouldn't cause problem. It was the flywheel which broke and ruined the stator.

However, when I got my stator and flywheel I noticed that there where marks on them, from screw heads :evil: . It was also wrong wiring harness :?: . I called Husaberg and they blamed the dealer :!: . I went to the dealer and two days later I got new parts. This had correct wiring harness but screw marks as well 8O .

He told me that when he saw these marks he called Husaberg, they didn't know but they believed 8O 8O , that these parts were mounted on new Husabergs but remounted and sold as spare parts 8O . Happens this only in Sweden or have any one else similar experiences, that you get secondhand parts but they charge you for new :? ?
 
Hi Mikst,
I have often received new parts which were obviously sourced from an assembled engine. It has never been a problem and quite frankly I was impressed that they were willing to part a new engine in an effort to insure my satisfaction.
Hope this helps.
Best regards,
Dale
 
Mikst - Do the manufacturer mount all stators on a test rig, leaving screw marks, to test them before shipping? Personally I would prefer to be given parts that had been proven, as long as they are not significantly worn, but I can understand your being pissed if you are paying to be given someone else's problem.

Dale, do you have any idea if the engines fitted with balancer shafts (ie e-start vs non-e-start in the older engines) get better stator life? You mentioned that vibration seems to be the major stator killer from your experience with the BBR501 - the "giant tuning fork".

Perhaps Jason could consider a section of the gallery for unusual Husaberg based machines. There must be a few around & the BBR is surely one of them. I can see if I can find the turbo'd 600 open wheeler.
 
Hi Brad,
The non balanced 501 engines seem to have the highest failure rate.
Best Regards,
Dale
 
stators

When you all replaced your stators or rewound them, what were the symtoms??
I have some trouble( see new post, starters & stators) that I will need help with.
 
Mine gradually began to get weak spark and had to be spun faster & faster to start. At first I could push or roll start it but it eventually got so that the only way we could start it was to tow it behind another bike. By then you had to keep it revving to keep it going.
 
I can visibly see the difference in the SPARK(on the plug) between kicking and push button, it is much larger when kicked. But I need to find out what people think, is it not turning over fast enough, or is the s/motor drawing to much current, or is the stator stuffed?? By the way the coil is almost new.
 
Hi Scully,
Peak Kicking RPM is higher than that of the average starter RPM. When the Peak kicking RPM coincides with that of the ignition request a spark is faithfully generated. I am currently (when financial and time restraints allow) working on an ignition upgrade that will enhance low rpm spark production.

Best Regards,
Dale
 
No problem to find the problem

Brad - It was no doubt about that the flywheel and stator had been used in a bike. You could see that they had adjusted the ignition on the marks and the stator was dirty and you could see the marks from the cover too.
However, it is one year warranty and I will sell the bike before that if it doesn't break before. The bearings in the balance make me nervous.

Scully - I got weaker spark and the primary ignition resistance increased. It started but I had start problem in cold ambient. It doesn't responded on idle speed adjustment, couldn't lower the rpm. The clearest indication was when the bike stopped and I couldn't restart when it was warm. After the last stop I couldn't start it again and when I checked the flywheel, 1/3 of the magnetic material had went loose and caused cracks in the stator.

Now the bike starts on the first or second kick, warm and cold both. It's easier to start the bike today than then I got the bike.
 

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