Stator or Rectifier/regulator - One of em's gone ?

Ady · Jan 25, 2006

:? By these things keep us on our toes !!
In a nutshell - my FE501 is not charging any more.
Not the battery (brand new & charges perfect on the optimate)
I think it's either the stator or my rectifier/regulator.
All tests in 'the doc' performed and results were all good except :-
Obviously, less than 1Vdc coming from the regulator.... So

With the stator (yellow, yellow & blue) disconnected.
Measuring between Yellow & blue :- Engine running at idle 14Vac, revved upto 34Vac .
Same results using the other yellow wire from the stator.
However....
When connected upto the regulator/rectifier, the voltages across the same yellow & blue terminals have dropped to just over 1Vac and don't fluctuate with revving.
:? :? :? :? :? :? :?
Normally you would say ok, it's the regulator/rectifier, but I have another one of another bike and that showed similar results.
The voltages across the connected terminals should not drop ..... unless .... The stator has cooked and is not delivering enough amperage to force through the rectification stage ...???
My bloomin' ammeter is broken at the moment as well, so thats not helping any.
Can you .... (Brad maybe ! Husabut maybe !)

Regards
Ady

dsducati · Jan 25, 2006

Commonly seen problem. On Honda ATV's it was usually the connector itself corroded from cow crap/chemicals or a wire was broken under the insulation, but knowing SEMs, something could have vibrated loose in the stator. Only takes milliamps to run a volt meter.
dan

Ady · Jan 28, 2006

The plot thickens but the fog may be clearing !
So my test to see if i was getting enough amperage from the stator charge coils, was to buy myself a heavy duty full wave rectifier and connect it to the two yellows (previous tests showed 13,1 volts ac constant).
My dc voltage with the engine running was only 12.4 v dc constant depending on load. Furthermore the current was unable to power the lights on its own.
So, for the hell of it i connected one of the yellows and the blue from the stator this time.
So far .BINGO ! 12.5 volts dc at idle rising to 13.4 volts dc at full revvs.
With battery disconnected plenty of current to power the lights, horn etc and it appears to be well regulated.
On paper it seems good. It also suggests that the stator coils are alright, well at least one of them.
So unless anyone suggests that i shouldn't be doing this i'm prepared to take it for a ride and give it a try.
Your technical opinions please ??

Regards
Ady

Ady · Jan 28, 2006

So, the update.
I figured that whilst i was messing with my electrics, i might as well stick my spare battery in series with the lead to the starter motor, thus creating 24v, but with no means of charging the second battery.
Testing:
I feel testing will be a 3 phase thing.
Phase 1: General ride checking lights and starting off the button etc.
Verdict: Spot on - Starts instantly, all lights etc running fine.
Phase 2: Determine if main battery is getting charged via my new rectifier.
Phase 3: See what drain there is on my main battery when not in use for a period of two weeks for example.
Incidently, a note on phase 3. Previously when the bike was not in use, there was an impedance of 70 ohms to earth from the disconnected +ve leg of the battery to earth. That was like having a 20w bulb running all the time. As i have no ignition switch, i had fitted a 100a switch in my battery +ve. Now however, my impedance test shows 3500 0hms wich equates to roughly 0.36 w. So as i have now had to make room for my second battery, i have got rid of the switch..... Time will tell.

Phase 2 & 3 have yet to be done, i am however, well impressed at the starting using 24v.
I will count the number of times i can start the bike on one charge,. so far it's 4 times.
Could this be the ultimate answer to starting the 01 - 03 501's ...

I understand there is not a lot of feedback on this topic due to its electrical nature, i only hope this can be used as reference for somebody else in the future.

Regards
Ady

Monkey36 · Mar 3, 2006

ady, what ever came of this. I have a 03-501 with the same problem. I originally thought it was the battery, however with a new battery I still have two issues: battery does not charge and battery has a drain on it while the bike is off. I have used the "doc" site and tested the stator and rec and all tests are fine........any additional insight would be appreciated.

Ady · Mar 4, 2006

Hi Monkey 36 (don't know your name)
As yet i have not posted an update as i have been real busy with work and wanted more testing time.
However, as you've asked.... the results so far a very promising.
I've had two rides and the bike has gone off the button every time. 100% cure. Delighted ! Not knackering myself out kicking it off all day !!
There is no drain on the battery at all when kept unused. The main battery charges quicker now, and the second battery works superb for a full days starting (approx 30 starts) .... Jobs a gooden !
How...
Simple.
Using only one of the ignition power coils wired directly to my own heavy duty rectifier then connected straight to the previous regulators DC output terminals (having got rid of the old regulator/rectifier).
This then creates 13.1 v dc across the battery - and gives a slow charge, but you must have your lights on. .... Switch your lights off and the voltage increases to 14.1 v dc and quickly charges your battery (ideal for many stop starts).
Now so far everything is fine, but it remains to be seen if this will damage anything long term ...
Well, somebody has to try these things ....
It wasn't starting before this, so nothing lost.
Can give you more details if required.

Regards
Ady

Ady · Jun 27, 2006

for those that may use this as reference...
my initial theory that the stator was ok was correct. my rectifier/regulator was at fault.... i have fitted a new one all is well.
However, as i fitted a more heavy duty regulator/rectifier i have simply connected my second battery in parallel - to good effect.

Regards
Ady

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