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Stator Gremlins ?

Joined Feb 2006
488 Posts | 0+
Durango, Colorado
Ok so I think I have a stator problem, yes I read the Doc. and through the threads noted there. I didn't see in there any direction about getting the stator out to check for corrosion etc.. Is there some tool I need or a trick to getting it out? I tried by hand but it wouldn't budge I didn't want to get my hammer out and gorilla it out of there. I defintely have no spark and the problem reared it's ugly head in a way that made me think the bike was out of gas. And I couldn't really discern from the threads does the KTM stator really work? Oh ya it's a 2000 FE501 Thanks guys I appreciate the help!
 
Last question will a stator out of 1998 model year work???

Thanks

Ron
 
being an earlyberg kind of guy, couldn't say for sure, but the 98 sits on the engine case, and the newer ones sit in the cover.

ned
 
Gents,

In support of the quest for replacement stators, does anyone have the Red-Black and Green-Black resistance readings of a unplugged GOOD 1998 and a GOOD 1997 or earlier stator.

If you had the voltage readings of them unplugged while kicking or e-start turning the engine with the plug in that would help also.

Then maybe we could make a decision and publish the interchangibility of them in 'The Doc', once and for all! We already have the values for the 1999 through 2003 SEMs stator. :)


Regards,

Joe
 
Hi Ron
Let's start with the basics.
Have you tried another plug.
Have you unscrewed the plug cap off and checked for a spark to earth
Have you checked your connections... All connections concerned !
Have you checked your ignition switch / handlebar switch for engine stop.
Done em !!
OK. Now disconnect your your red, black and green at the spade connectors.
Also diss. your yellow, yellow and blue going to your rectifier.
Ideally here you need a meter to check for voltages from the red and black on the ignition and between the blue and one of the yellows on the power circuits.
But, if you haven't got a meter use a low voltage downlight (the type you use in bathrooms) they are 12v and work on AC voltage.
Simply connect them to the aforementioned meter points and kick the bike over using the manual decompressor. The bulb will glow if voltage is there.
If nothing glows on any of the wires .... Then go and buy yourself a new stator !
good luck

Regards
Ady
 
It has been said several times but you should be able to X-ref with the stator from the 1995 KTM LC4 and you should be able to order it from KTMtalk.com with a 15% member discount but now you do what you want :)
 
JoeUSA said:
Gents,

In support of the quest for replacement stators, does anyone have the Red-Black and Green-Black resistance readings of a unplugged GOOD 1998 and a GOOD 1997 or earlier stator.

If you had the voltage readings of them unplugged while kicking or e-start turning the engine with the plug in that would help also.

Then maybe we could make a decision and publish the interchangibility of them in 'The Doc', once and for all! We already have the values for the 1999 through 2003 SEMs stator. :)


Regards,

Joe

sem stators on husabergs up to 1998:

red-black= 1750 ohms
black-green= 23 ohms
yellow-blue= who really cares :D (under 1 ohm)

when idling:
charging voltage(red-black): 200vac
pickup output(green-black): 12vac(+/- 6vac)

as for lc4 1995 stator it will not work on your bike because it has windings same as the above mentioned husaberg earlier stator.

husabergs from 1999 to 2003 have the same stator and its readings are in the doc.

however ktm 1995 stator will work on pre 1999 models

one more thing i would like to add its that up to 1997 models you have the option to order separately the stator from the flywheel,but from 98 to 03 you have to get the complete ignition (stator and flywheel).
 
Here are the 99-03 Stator values just so they are all in the same thread as the 89-98 stator values are.

Disconnect the cable connection between the pigtail coming from the CDI box (under the frame tube over the top of the engine) and the pigtail coming from the ignition stator. Its tricky to do, I use a real small thin screw driver blade to release the lock tab .

Measure the Red to Black resistance on the Stator pigtail, it should be 3000 ohms +- 300 ohms. I use straightened out small paper clips to put into the pigtail sockets to make a good connection.

Measure the Green to Black resistance, it should be 260 ohms +- 26 ohms.

Switch your multimeter to ACV, and measure the Red-Black voltage while kicking the engine over. It should be 30-35 VAC, anything less than 25 VAC will not start.

Measure the Green - Black voltage while kicking the engine over. It should be about 3.0 VAC.

Unscrew the spark plug cap from the high tension wire and measure its resistance. It should be ~ 3500 ohms

Regards,

Joe
 
OK gentelmen ( I use that term loosely) I had multiple problems going on at once. Thanks to the Doc. and a flurry of PM's I got it all figured out. Yes the stator was indeed bad (I'm going to send the old one to that chap in Lisbon for re-wind) Once I go the new stator in (Thank You Lesmoto) still had start and run problems, turned out that some wires were loose on the connectors on the bike side of the wiring harness. Got mad one night and cut all the connectors off and installed spade connectors with heat shrink ends on them. Bought the spark tester from Auto Zone, so I now have consistant spark and correct voltages. Still was having starting and running issues went back to the Doc. checked everything electrical, then started with the mechanical stuff eventually found that on a previous valve adjustment I did not tighten the locking nut on top of the adjuster on one of the exhaust valves enough and it had loosened up(didn't come off thankfully) however it did get abused enough so that the threads got stripped and would not tighten to the correct point. Got a hold of Dan at Motoxotica after some discussion decided to change out both exhaust and intake rockers for the 2003 models (which he had in stock) Needless to say once all that was done bike started on second kick dialed in the idle and air screw and now purrs like a kitten, well I have Big Gun exhaust system so more ROARS like a lion really. Many thanks to the guys who made the Doc. All the guys that exchanged PM's JoeUSA, Buzzard, Taffy, et all....I find it much more satisfying to fix it without the use of a motorcycle shop less loot too! See you in Moab!
Later
Ron
 
LeFrog said:
Joe, did you like the work done on your stator?

No I did not like it.


It will no longer e-start.

It barely starts with the kicker.

I can only run 1 leg of the yellow, yellow, blue alternator.

The rewound stator only puts out 2.3 VAC Green-Black on kicking , should be ~ 3.0VAC

The rewound stator only puts out 19.2 VAC Red-Black on kicking , should be 30.0-35.0 VAC

With the rewound stator the engine would only rev to ~3500 rpm before explosively cutting out and stalling. This is due to the trigger circuit being affected by the much lower impediance of the Green-Black windings and probably picking up some radiated EMI from the stator yellow/blue alternator leads. By leaving one leg of the yellow/Blue alternator open circuited it will rev out ok but still seems flakey. It was not pleasant at all to ride.

I have removed the rewound stator and have put another failed SEMs back in for use in development of an AC power supply to take the place of the failed Red-Black SEMss winding.

The breadboard and prototype power supplys work perfectly riding around in the HOT California Desert but the Engineer isn't happy yet with his packaging!

I sent the development units back to him for further evaluation on his Test Bench.

I have parked the bike, and only ride my 04 550.

Regards,

Joe
 
Well, let us know of the progress of the engineer's work. Could we have his coordinates?

Sorry for you taking one for the gang.
 

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