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Starter slipping

P

pierrevz

Joined Feb 2010
4 Posts | 0+
South Africa
Hoping any of the Berg boffins can assist....

I have a '04 Berg 550FE with a stuffed kickstarter (will implement some of Taffy's ideas when I do the repair) and therfore totally reliant on the e-start at the moment. I have navigated thru this forum and have read about everything with a reference to "starter" or "sprague" etc, but with the overwhelming amount of posts on the topic I am a bit confused as very few topics refer to year model or ingnition type i.e. SEM or Kokosan. Also from what I could gather, most of the starting problems were supposed to be resolved from '04 onwards?

My bike's got a Kokosan ignition and Keihin carb and is otherwise still stock standard, except for a full Acropovic exhaust recently fitted. Servicing is done acc. the owners manual and the bike currently has approximately 2500km on the clock (I'm the 2nd owner)

Any ideas as to where to start without taking the whole bike apart (but if that is what is required, that is also fine)
 
go to home page, owners doc on left, to engine upgrades and Gear wheel torque limiter. a lot of '04s had bad limiters and need shimmed or shaved.
 
he called me yesterday Ned and he doesn't have a TL problem it would seem. it turns over very slowly for some reason despite a new battery. have recommended tappet clearances be re-set. There is also the possibility that the auto de-comp spring has weakened or slipped off at some point in it's life.

regards

Taffy
 
Check out the starter in side, make sure the brush plate is earthing properly, if it isn't you will see arcing spots on the plate due to high resistance, I've seen this many times over the years on different models. This will make your starter seem sluggish, not been able to pass the current.
Also check the brush length.

Regards

Sparks.
 
Thanks guys for the advise so far.......

I have checked the battery and starter over the weekend again and both are 100%. What I forgot to mention is that the engine fires-up fairly easy when hot (on the 1st or 2nd crank!). Tappet setting and checking the auto-decompress would then be the obvious next steps -or not?
I have meanwhile aslo stripped the spargue -no visual damage. Is the 10NM torgue setting correct as a saw a much higher recommendation in one of the topics -it may have been 15 or 25NM?
The needle cage locating the spargue's shaft into the casing however seems very "loose". Also, if the sparague is turned by hand in the free-wheel direction, it does not feel smooth (like when you spin the shaft of a battery operated toy's motor!)
Is it at all possible that the inner our outer contact surface is no longer 100% concentric? (I have arranged to have it checked by a calibration specialist -will advise on the outcome) .

I'm still not very clear on the position and purpose of the 0.4mm thick spacer as referred to in the Owners Doc. Also, does this aply to all Berg models?
 

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