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Starter motor help

Joined Jun 2014
123 Posts | 2+
V
Hi,

I intend to replace the clutch starter motor sprague spring, I have now removed the clutch plates but am stuck trying to remove the 27mm nut.

I cannot get the locking tabs up, have tried a flat bladed screw driver and and pliers but don't have enough room, any ideas?

Also, will the 27mm nut come off with an air impact driver?

Thanks
 
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With the locking tabs bent up won't they interfere with the socket? Or just bent up enough not to be hitting on the hub?

IMG_20160627_104819_zpsb6o4szih.jpg


IMG_20160627_104825_zps0ktx49w3.jpg
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Also, any ideas where this o-ring came from?
 
Hi,

I intend to replace the clutch starter motor sprague spring, I have now removed the clutch plates but am stuck trying to remove the 27mm nut.

I cannot get the locking tabs up, have tried a flat bladed screw driver and and pliers but don't have enough room, any ideas?

Also, will the 27mm nut come off with an air impact driver?

Thanks

Just did mine I used a small chisel and hammer to spread back locking tabs and needle nose vise grips to squeeze it closed I took it off with impact

Check water journal for o-ring
 
Just did mine I used a small chisel and hammer to spread back locking tabs and needle nose vise grips to squeeze it closed I took it off with impact

Check water journal for o-ring


See the first picture in my second post, with the washer down like that wouldn't the nut come off fine? Do I need to spread that one up?
 
See the first picture in my second post, with the washer down like that wouldn't the nut come off fine? Do I need to spread that one up?

No, the tab that goes down away from the nut prevents washer from spinning just spread the one that is facing towards the nut
The O-ring is located in the water journal above the timing chain
 
No, the tab that goes down away from the nut prevents washer from spinning just spread the one that is facing towards the nut
The O-ring is located in the water journal above the timing chain

Thanks, got the 2 tabs down now just need to go buy a 27mm socket.

Yeah i thought it was that oring but it's not, there's already one there
 
My kickstarter is now stuck, The electric start was working fine and then the whole thing jammed up... I've pulled the clutch again but the clutch basket won't come off and looks to be jammed up with the kickstarter gear.

Any ideas how to get it off? Somehow i need to turn the whole basket back i think...
 
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fck me... Finally got it unjammed and now my kickstarter keeps stuffing up. The cog with the ratchet on it doesn't look like it's sitting right in the engine and looks like its chewed away some of the crank case.
 
Dear Oh! Dear!!!

OK, the second O ring will be to stop the kickstarter shaft leaking on the OUTSIDE. both o rings are similar but the Kickstart is fatter and the thin one looks crushed and fits at the water jacket.

you have a lot to get right here. you need to line your ducks up in the right order!

first ratphuq is the valve timing: are you aware that there is one dot on one gear and two on the other and that they are timing marks?

second. you have a torque for the clutch nut and it is a LOT. it's like 90LB of torque on it.

next, your kickstart. OK, you made a mess of putting it together and so we have to put that right.
a) only fit the shaft with no extras AND THE SPRING.
you must hook the U part of the spring inside the gearbox area where there is a sharp lip. hook the 'U' in there.

b) put the kickstart arm on with it pointing up at the headstock. wynd the kickstart clockwise and when the shoulder of the kickstart stump has gone past the sledge plate stop shoulder you can now tap it down and in.

c) with the kickstart boss down, in and sprung loaded you can fit the baby spring and the sledge key, yes they will fit but don't do this with the bike on its side because if you lose any bits they will drop into the gearbox.

d) fit the kickstart gear and then the clutch (and time the cam timing). tighten the nut. and then I suggest you wobbe the kickstart boss. you WANT the kickstart sledge to fall off now if it is ever going to fall off! why wait till later?

e) if it falls off and you hear it 'ping', you need to completely undo everything back to looking at the boss: sprung and loaded.

f provisional) you need to undo the sledge plate and put 1mm washer behind it, then re-tighten and do the whole process again.

Taffy
 
Dear Oh! Dear!!!

OK, the second O ring will be to stop the kickstarter shaft leaking on the OUTSIDE. both o rings are similar but the Kickstart is fatter and the thin one looks crushed and fits at the water jacket.

you have a lot to get right here. you need to line your ducks up in the right order!

first ratphuq is the valve timing: are you aware that there is one dot on one gear and two on the other and that they are timing marks?

second. you have a torque for the clutch nut and it is a LOT. it's like 90LB of torque on it.

next, your kickstart. OK, you made a mess of putting it together and so we have to put that right.
a) only fit the shaft with no extras AND THE SPRING.
you must hook the U part of the spring inside the gearbox area where there is a sharp lip. hook the 'U' in there.

b) put the kickstart arm on with it pointing up at the headstock. wynd the kickstart clockwise and when the shoulder of the kickstart stump has gone past the sledge plate stop shoulder you can now tap it down and in.

c) with the kickstart boss down, in and sprung loaded you can fit the baby spring and the sledge key, yes they will fit but don't do this with the bike on its side because if you lose any bits they will drop into the gearbox.

d) fit the kickstart gear and then the clutch (and time the cam timing). tighten the nut. and then I suggest you wobbe the kickstart boss. you WANT the kickstart sledge to fall off now if it is ever going to fall off! why wait till later?

e) if it falls off and you hear it 'ping', you need to completely undo everything back to looking at the boss: sprung and loaded.

f provisional) you need to undo the sledge plate and put 1mm washer behind it, then re-tighten and do the whole process again.

Taffy

I will have more of a look at it tomorrow, I thought because I had only touched the clutch basket, kickstarter gear and electric start gear that I wouldn't need to do anything with the timing.

Thanks mate
 
any time you are pulling the clutch cover, keep your thumb on the k/s shaft and don't let it come out at all. if the cover pulls it even slightly, it comes undone...thus your problem
 
Apologies for all the dumb questions, i am doing this bike up hoping to get it road registered when I turn 18.

These two gears in the photo below, are they the two that need to line up? Obviously they don't mesh so it seems difficult to get the accurate. Do they look ok here?



And secondly, here is a photo of my kickstarter shaft here before I touch it, It seems very confusing to perfect haha, Can you see what has gone wrong?









And the whole engine
 
Single dot on top gear lines up in between two dots on bottom gear

Thats as close as I can get it, it has the tendancy to move a lot either way, I guess I put the clutch back on and see if it's not missing a tooth if it's visible.

Thanks for the link! seems scary with the spring in the other side of the engine, to me it's just a big black hole I don't know about lol
 
You might need two guys One to hold the gears in the right location and the second to put the clutch basket on The bike should have been at top dead center so it free wheels at this point and you are not fighting the gears Learned that the hard way also
 
Finally figured out the mechanism in a way, boy did I have it wrong....

Here are some pics, It doesn't seem to be fully seated on the sledge plate (is this normal?)

Test fitting the kickstarter gear it seems to fit fine which leads me to believe it is in the correct position



 
You might need two guys One to hold the gears in the right location and the second to put the clutch basket on The bike should have been at top dead center so it free wheels at this point and you are not fighting the gears Learned that the hard way also

we once needed 8 guys to change a light bulb: one to change it and 7 to hold him up there.:giggle::giggle:

Taffy
 


Does this look like its out one tooth or is it ok? Took ages to get that close and don't want to pull the clutch basket off again for no reason!
 
Go to page E-5 in the manual and you will see what it looks like You need to have the top single mark between the two bottom marks, your off a bit
 

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