start to getting sick of this bike!!!

_alex_ · Dec 20, 2004

hello,just to share my dissapointment

i have husabergs since 99Ã‚Â´,been in factory in sweeden in 2002(just before they move),completely being true fan for the brand 8)

but i thing i got enough for now...i am not a professional rider just for fun weekends.so whats the point of having a bike that is never 100%?
whats the point of being always trying to fix this and that?
i just want to ride not fixing the bike....whats the point???
ok!i know that this bike is TOP in suspension,engine ,frame and all...but again whats the point if all this features dont work well together???

this applies to all european bikes...they are not reliable :cry:
well i think it applies to all the bikes that are not made in japan.

sorry to all but i was a really husaberg fan...well iam still a huge fan thats why i already didnt sold my bike 8)

and i think that KTM going to kill the brand in a near future :evil:

berger · Dec 20, 2004

What year and model bike? What was the proverbial "straw that broke the camel's back"
Should we be looking for you on the TT XR400 forum?

jimmydean · Dec 20, 2004

Well, all I ride with are Jap bikes. It would be nice to have electric start like my friends WR, or not have to deal with antifeeze like my friends XR. But I tell you what, I traded my friends bikes for a trail ride every time we go and I can't wait to get back on my bike every time. My bike goes faster, rides nicer, handles better than any other bike I have ridden.

I have only had this bike a couple months and have only been riding for the same amount of time. I bought this bike because I got it for what was in my budget. Since I've ridden it, I would have paid 3 times more for it.

I have had to do a little work, like adjust the valves, tune the carb, now the clutch needs attention. But not much more work than if I would have bought a '96 anything else. And for the ride quality and the parts spec, I wouldn't trade it for anything!

If I have to turn a wrench now and then to keep it running proper, I don't mind. I like to do my own work on my machines and I like to learn new things as well. I was frustrated last month when I stalled out in the woods and it took 45 minutes to get running again, but Saturday it ran flawless and started in about 3 kicks EVERY TIME.

Everyone who has ridden this bike has either gotten off in love, or scared of what it can do. Mind you, it's only an FC400, but it can hold its own against my friends WR450 and XR600 any day of the week.

husabutt · Dec 20, 2004

_alex_ said:
hello,just to share my dissapointment

Hi Alex:

Thank you for sharing your disappointment.

What exactly is the problem?

_alex_ · Dec 20, 2004

hi,
now that i changed for a iridium plug,the iddle is high and then for 30 sec. go down :roll: but its not only this....in fact all my bergs always has a little of this and tat,you know.

i enjoyed working on the bike when i got time but now i dont have time as i used to...

husabutt · Dec 20, 2004

Alex:

What year is your Fe501? I just did a quick review but don't see it. If its your idle problem that is getting you a little upset I'm sure with the help of everyone here it will get sorted. Sounds like an air leak or lean condition. Have you done anything to the carburetor lately? Changed jetting? When did it start doing this. Different fuel?

_alex_ · Dec 20, 2004

its a 03' model,i did change anything on the bike,only the NGK iridium but the bike was already doing this high idle thing :?

thanks for the support 8)

_alex_ · Dec 20, 2004

i forgot to mention that when i am climbing if the bike shuts i cant put the engine running....i must come all the down to fire it

the bike is starting well if iam standing in a horizontal position or down... :shock: up it doesnt start!!!!

jimmydean · Dec 20, 2004

_alex_ said:
i forgot to mention that when i am climbing if the bike shuts i cant put the engine running....i must come all the down to fire it
the bike is starting well if iam standing in a horizontal position or down... :shock: up it doesnt start!!!!

That's odd. I am able to start on a hill. I had to start it on a hill in gear on Saturday because I couldn't get it into neutral (it was steep). Mine is kick start only though, but it fired right up.

husabutt · Dec 20, 2004

Once you rule out an air leak I would attempt to fine tune your carburetor. If it were me I would go up one size on the pilot jet and and move the needle clip down one notch from where it is now. This will richen things up a bit at the low end of the RPM range and should help if a lean condition is the problem. When you have your carb apart write down the pilot and main jet sizes.

If you don't feel like doing this right away at least open up the fuel screw a turn or two and see if it helps. Have you ever set your fuel screw? Where is it set right now (how many turns out from all the way in?)

_alex_ · Dec 20, 2004

mine is a kick starter ,i remove all the elctrical stuff 8) its very light now.

_alex_ · Dec 20, 2004

husabutt said:
Once you rule out an air leak I would attempt to fine tune your carburetor. If it were me I would go up one size on the pilot jet and and move the needle clip down one notch from where it is now. This will richen things up a bit at the low end of the RPM range and should help if a lean condition is the problem. When you have your carb apart write down the pilot and main jet sizes.

If you don't feel like doing this right away at least open up the fuel screw a turn or two and see if it helps. Have you ever set your fuel screw? Where is it set right now (how many turns out from all the way in?)

is it with 2 1/2 turns,this is the right setting,it worked with all my previous bikes,including this one...until now :?

nsman · Dec 20, 2004

any idea how much time is on this engine?Alex I feel that if KTM was going to"kill" this brand, as you say, they would have done it already!...nsman

_alex_ · Dec 20, 2004

maybe about 1500 kms,its a new bike

with all the monthly checks

:cry: :?: :evil:

nsman · Dec 20, 2004

Alex,With only 1500 kms ,there cant be too much it can be.I would almost eliminate all possibility of worn components.Again did you take the tank off and check your cable?If you are convinced all is well there then it has to be carb issue..Can you remember exactly when this problem started. ..nsman

wildbill · Dec 20, 2004

Alex check for air leaks between the carb and engine.While you are into it pull the tank(to see better) and check the cable routing also check the throttle on the handlebar(they will stick).Last or first pull the carb or turn it enough to remove the top where the return spring is the little bolt that holds the cable can work loose and allow the needle to stay open.It could be any of these a few by personal experience.Things like that are usually caused by some little something or other it just takes time.Also back off the cable adjustment at the carb that can do it to.Assuming the engine is right valves and such I would say it is either the cable or the carb.I have had mine do the same thing before and each time it has been the cable( or routing of).It is some little something that when you find it

and kick yourself to boot.Good luck and take your time.

Splat · Dec 24, 2004

_alex_ said:
husabutt said:

at least open up the fuel screw a turn or two and see if it helps. Have you ever set your fuel screw? Where is it set right now (how many turns out from all the way in?)

Click to expand...

is it with 2 1/2 turns,?

I also have a 2003 FE501e. The stock pilot is way too lean. I went up to a 48 Pilot. Maybe you should try a 42 or 45 pilot. Your mixture screw should be around 1 to 1 1/2 turns, so your pilot is too lean. On my 501, I had to raise the clip 1 notch, that made a huge difference. The rich midrange and lean pilot will cause all your stalling and starting and idle problems that you described.

I had the same hot start problem and stalling problem before making the jetting changes and adjusting my float.

BTW, it would really help if you would list your town and country in your profile so we can see we you live for elevation and climate information. Elevation and climate affect jetting and starting issues like you are experiencing.

_alex_ · Dec 24, 2004

hey there,thanks for the value info. 8)

i live in Portugal in the city of Braga.if you can pls let me know wich is the best tuning for my bike.

thanks

Simon · Dec 24, 2004

Splat said:
Your mixture screw should be around 1 to 1 1/2 turns, so your pilot is too lean.

Sorry, but the general rule of thumb for selecting whether to go up or down a size on the pilot is at the point of more than 3 turns out, or less than 1 turn out. Between that the pilot should be fine.

However, you cannot jet these Dellortos properly by just looking at the pilot jet.

Main jet size, needle, clip position and needle jet will all play a part in idle and start performance because none of the circuits really work in independence. In some case it is possible to totally resolve a start or idle problem by a main jet modification alone.

Get yourself down to a dyno, hand over 50 bucks or whatever and get the jetting set up properly and varifiably for your particular bike. It saves a hell of a lot of time and effort, and indeed money buying useless additional jets.

Regards and Happy Xmas,
Simon

Splat · Dec 24, 2004

Simon said:
However, you cannot jet these Dellortos properly by just looking at the pilot jet.

Yes you can. It is not rocket science. You can get reasonably close if you have a baseline from which to start, then you can adjust according to temperature, elevation and humidity.

Main jet size, needle, clip position and needle jet will all play a part in idle and start performance because none of the circuits really work in independence. In some case it is possible to totally resolve a start or idle problem by a main jet modification alone.

Possible, but not likely. Since he and I have the same bike, and I had a very similar problem, the wise thing for Alex to do would be to copy my jetting and see if that helps cure the problem. Then he can use his $50 for something else.

Merry Christmas!

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