Sprokets and Chains

dinslage · Sep 17, 2011

Hi all,

I have a new 2011 FE 570 with all of 200 some miles. Love the bike. Remapped, de-smogged, new tail light, header wrap, reflective tape, etc...and I still love the bike even after the tank reinstall. A little less love but still a keeper. This forum has been a great help.

Anyway, I put on 13/52 sprokets and apparently I need more chain. I was hoping I could just roll the chain over the new 52 but no. Can I simply add a few links? If so, how many? I never broke an O-ring chain before -- is there a trick to keeping the O-rings in place when putting it back together? What tools do I need? I have the circlip off the master link but it needs more than gentle tapping to be removed.

Waiting to ride,
Dinslage

Bergini · Sep 17, 2011

i have always been told the master link is the weakest part of the chain, i dont know if thats true or not but i live by that rule and with a torque monster i would think the fewer links the better.... if that chain breaks and wraps up at 60+mph you will have a bad day, i would just get a new chain and keep your old one for if you want to switch back to a different gearing later

if you take the keeper or circlip off then usually just wedging a screwdriver in between the link will pop it out, i have before had to use a side cutter/**** with the blade in the area the o-ring is then squeezing it down will pop the link,
you can get half links and regular links to add whatever length you need and i have had other machines with a lot less power and added links and half links but like a said i would not at all recomend doing it to a big berg.....its a safety issue to you and could damage your bike if it breaks.....good luck

dinslage · Sep 17, 2011

Bergini,

You make an excellent point. What was I thinking? I can use the short chain for super motard shenanigans when I get time to find wheels.

But what length of chain do I need for a 13/52 set up?

GregUK · Sep 17, 2011

13/52 on an FE570 might work with 116 links but try 118 links first.

Circlip links are every bit as strong as the rest of the chain however:

ALWAYS use a joining link that is made to match the chain you are using - joining links are NOT universally interchangable[/*:m:zd68wyaj]
Ensure chain wheels are properly aligned[/*:m:zd68wyaj]
Failures of joining links are nearly always due to poor fitting[/*:m:zd68wyaj]
If using a cliclip link, remove and fit the circlip with proper chain circlip pliers[/*:m:zd68wyaj]
The circlip should not be bent or twisted at all[/*:m:zd68wyaj]
The closed end of the circlip should be towards the direction of chain travel[/*:m:zd68wyaj]
When fitting the circlip ensure that it is fully seated in both pin grooves[/*:m:zd68wyaj]
If you have to force anything, you're doing it wrong![/*:m:zd68wyaj]
Rivet/soft links need to be fitted with a decent chain tool. The DID tool is the best (copies of this tool are plentiful on eBay). Read the tool's instructions BEFORE you **** the job up![/*:m:zd68wyaj]

On my 570 I found that the stock circlip rubs on the chain guide and it looked like it was heading for failure - so when I fitted a new chain I opted for a rivet link.

Chains get a hard life look after it!

Greg

dinslage · Sep 17, 2011

I got myself a nice chain tool, a Regina, and 116 links work well. Thanks for the adive.

Ruger · Oct 12, 2011

A nearly foolproof method of aligning the front and rear sprockets came to me last night, and I thought I would share it. Get a laser borsight tool from any sporting goods store or on-line gun source (Cheaper Than Dirt, for example. Even Wal-Mart has them now.), and lay it in the top chain run on the rear sprocket so that it points forward. Turn it on and it'll tell you whether the front and rear sprockets are aligned, and you can adjust accordingly.

A laser equipped flashlight is not calibrated to its centerline, so it will steer you wrong. I tried it. Also, the laser borsight tool has to have a cylindrical body. The ones with the rectangular front end will not be cradled by the chain links and will not work. Be sure to place it as far back on the upper chain run over the rear sprocket as possible.

tumpelo · Jan 17, 2012

Just to make sure - to which direction the collar of the front sprocket should face on a 2009 FE 450? Parts manual page 11 has a picture of the sprocket and it looks the collar should be facing towards the engine.

RZmike95 · Jan 17, 2012

Ruger,
Do you have a link for the laser tool you use? Or a picture of how you use it?
Mike

tumpelo · Jan 18, 2012

"Just to make sure - to which direction the collar of the front sprocket should face on a 2009 FE 450? Parts manual page 11 has a picture of the sprocket and it looks the collar should be facing towards the engine."

Anyone please?

MaddogFE · Jan 21, 2012

tumpelo said:
"Just to make sure - to which direction the collar of the front sprocket should face on a 2009 FE 450? Parts manual page 11 has a picture of the sprocket and it looks the collar should be facing towards the engine."

Anyone please?

That is correct, the bolt and spring washer tightend against the flat side of the sprocket.

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