Spark plug removal 570

Yes the sparky is a PITA to get out. I use a spark plug socket from an old DRZ tool kit, it has a swivel on it so the ratchet doesn't connect straight on. Well, this probably isn't helping you but I'm sure someone will chime in to help. How many hours do you have on your 570? I have 100 and plug looks perfect.

It's 14mm, the steel socket that comes with the bike is about the only thing that's close to being easy, after you crack the thread, get a piece of fuel hose that will push firmly over the insulator and long enough to thread between the frame and radiator, use that to spin the plug out. Check that your plug cap has 5k ohms resistance while you're at it. Good luck !

Khromosone, if you're running the OEM ignition map and the factory muffler, those may be your problems. I had a devil of a time with my 2011 FE570S. The fix was ALL of what follows:
- Replace factory muffler with FMF unit
- Get dealer to flash the "performance map"
- Remove the smog crap
- Insulate the underside of the fuel tank
- Wrap the exhaust mid-pipe
- Replace the factory fuel pump with the California Cycleworks unit.

khromosone said:

Close to 30.

This bike is my worst purchase yet. Gone through every fix on this forum but yet I can't have a bike that will start after a short press of the starter switch or not die mid 1st-2nd gear doing 40km/hr.

I've replace the whole ******* fuel system, 2 new pumps, new fuel filters, new hose, fuel tank filters, taken out the OEM fuel filter. Literally everything. Bar the spark plug.

Its going into the shop on Tuesday so hopefully they tell me to sell the piece of ****.

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Sorry to hear about your frustration a friend went through a similar issue turned out to be the spark plug. When the spark plug goes bad its not like a 2 stoke that completely fouls out. Also check the spark plug cap a few months later bike was having problems again and when started at night he could see the spark arching to the motor form the cap. Check the resistance it should be 5K ohms it unscrews from the wire check for corrosion in the boot. Good luck and post your fix. Did you check the throttle position sensor some great you tube videos KTM has the exact same piece.

Yes second the tube over the plug end. Just loosen with the spark socket then remove and use the tube, reverse ro reinstall , easy.

Two things I don't see mentioned.

Replace the injector.

Check the fuel pressure. I just had a fuel pressure regulator fail on a bike with low hours. Has got to be 3.5 BAR! Since you're taking it to the dealer have them check it, it's a 5 minute job.

As far as starting, I'm assuming you are talking about a hot start? If the idle speed is set too high this produces bad starting characteristics.

just removed the old spark plug.
It was really hard tightened and needed a great effort for the first half turn to unscrew, with common 14mm spark plug wrench. After unscrewing the half of the length by wrench i could do the rest of it by hand.
Going back to place the new one, I could only get it screw by hand only for the first half of the length. After that it gets really hard to do the rest with the wrench.
Any thoughts about that? It should screw easily until the end, using my hand or no? Should i use grease on the spark plug ?

anti seize compound on the threads wouldn't hurt

just took the right radiator off, so i can have a better view and access of the spark plug hole. PITA anyway, my fear for thread damage confirmed. Two thirds of the spark plug is going in really easy, after that it gets tight and screws in angle. I have to talk with my mechanic to assess the thread damage and do a thread repair. I will keep you posted with pics and the rest of the story.

That sux!

Motion Pro makes a spark plug socket for KTM's that works perfectly on the 70º Husabergs

Spark Plug Socket, 14mm | Motion Pro

toulioss said:

just took the right radiator off, so i can have a better view and access of the spark plug hole. PITA anyway, my fear for thread damage confirmed. Two thirds of the spark plug is going in really easy, after that it gets tight and screws in angle. I have to talk with my mechanic to assess the thread damage and do a thread repair. I will keep you posted with pics and the rest of the story.

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I wish i had the specific tool you mentioned, unfortunately i did not, so i had to improvise. The reason for the thread damage might be 1. the previous owner had over tightened the spark plug. 2. I might stressed the over tight situation by not using the specific tool.

I used a thread repair chase, size M12x1.25mm, to clean and repair the damaged thread.
I positioned the piston as high as possible by setting the bike in 5th gear.
Used a lot of grease on the chase to collect thread debris.
Compressed air in cylinder head to remove any remaining particles.

Anyway my advise on a successful & relaxed spark plug removal is:
-remove the radiator & hoses
-use a long stable spark plug tool
-use extra caution when unscrewing the spark plug, try to take it off in a straight way
-reposition spark plug using anti-seize??? NGK suggest that is not needed, due to its special thread material
-do NOT over tight