Solution to damaged inner clutch hub

Eucl1d · Oct 21, 2017

Righto, so finally have the bike together and running again after installing my Kibblewhite dual valve springs (Thanks for all the advice via PMs Bushy!) I thought I had this job done a couple of weeks back only to realise that the bloody kickstart mech had jammed! Sounds like this a common occurrence and an easy trap to fall into if you don't forget to keep pressure on the kickstart shaft when removing the clutch-side cover. Bit of a design flaw IMO. Surely Husaberg could have incorporated a circlip retainer or similar to avoid this?

Anyway, in removing my clutch I ran into another snag...I managed to snap one of the female threaded 'rods' inside the inner clutch hub. What a pain! I considered buying a new one but figured I could repair it so set to work doing so.

The solution

Pictures here: https://imgur.com/a/0rqh0

I drilled out the broken rod and cleaned up the broken face as well as the face on the hub so the bits mate nice and cleanly. Basically just created a spacer dowel. I then drilled and tapped a thread into the clutch hub itself into which a slightly longer bolt fastens into now.

I'd say there's a little bit more pressure on this spring (as the rod height is a little less now) but not a huge deal more. It's a little bit of a hassle to install this one as you need to compress the spring for the bolt to take into the threads but it's not too hard.

Clutch feels fine to me, although I've not gone for a long ride yet - the damn water pump seal is leaking so I'm going to get hold of one locally that has a soft rubber outer and inner and have a crack at replacing the old leaking one in situ. If anyone has any tips for this, shout out please.

Quick question for the floor: does my solution raise any concerns? Will the fact that the clutch is now slightly unbalanced cause an issue you reckon? (because the bolt is longer and slightly heavier). What about the slightly increased pressure on the spring, any issues with this?

Taffy · Oct 23, 2017

no concerns whatsoever with that fella, none at all.

Taffy

canadius · Oct 23, 2017

Unbelievable timing - same issue!

I just broke mine last night - looks just like yours.

I lost one of the 12 posts into the motor while it was on it's side as part of a clutch plate inspection. So I figured I'd take off the inner hub and rescue it that way, since even after draining oil and putting bike upright, the missing post wouldn't fall down into the sump.

Fabbed my own c-shaped tool that tied into 2x opposing female posts, but because the inner hub sits fully recessed within the motor, there must have been some more load on one post than the other. So it's snapped, just like yours.

Contemplated ordering a new one, but rooted around looking for tips and your post came up - thanks for the idea, and Taff for confirming that's not likely to be a big issue.

cm

canadius · Oct 24, 2017

So a bit of an update.

Got the nut off, and removed the inner hub. Recalling that the whole reason for this was that I had lost a couple of the 12 driver sleeves/posts into the motor when I was taking off the plates. Rescued all but one.

So now with the inner hub off, I thought the remaining post would be visible. No way. I picked around with both a set of picks and a very strong pencil magnet. But impossible to see or hear it.

So, assuming there actually was 12 there to begin with, i need to remove the basket also. With both the 2 half washers and the stepped washer off, and the inner hub, how does the outer/basket come off?

From the manual, it looks like it should slide out - but it seems stuck. Any thoughts?

Thanks. 2008 FE550

Taffy · Oct 24, 2017

put a couple of flat bladed screw drivers through the basket and just tuck them in behind the drum, this should prize it off.

failing this, keep trying with the screw drivers but whack the gearbox shaft in with a plastic deadweight hammer or copperhead hammer and that should break the lip/bind.

regards

Taffy

Eucl1d · Oct 25, 2017

Pleased to see my post and solution helps someone else! I came very close to ordering a new inner clutch hub but thought stuff it, why not have a crack at fixing it. I don't think the posts are very strong laterally!

Unfortunately I have a waterpump-side seal leak even though I replaced the damn seal! Have ordered a KTM 65 seal (part number 46035056100) as recommended by Bushmechanic which is apparently softer and of a higher quality rubber. Here's hoping I can remove the leaking seal in situ and replace without having to go through the whole hassle of removing the whole side cover.

Also, canadius, make sure you kickstart mech hasn't jammed before you put everything back together. It's an easy trap to fall into.

Taffy · Oct 25, 2017

the clutch drum was upgraded twice in its lifetime, indeed, other than deals and the clutch drum, nothing was done to them between 05 and 08.

your right, the posts are delicate. never broken one myself but seen a couple.

As usual, I totally disagree with Bushmechanic, wrong choice, get another metal-backed w/p seal, the KTM65 seal will fall in the hole and never grip.

regards

Taffy

canolman · Oct 25, 2017

You should be able to remove the seal in situ using seal picks, just be careful and take your time, I've done it a few times.
For the record I've used the KTM seal and a 1mm wider seal on my engines, both have worked fine. The only ones that failed early have been the stock ones.

bushmechanic · Oct 25, 2017

the steel ones eventually leak around the od unless you use sealant

if you are super internet scared the blue ktm one is going to move you could use sealant on its od too

the difference between them is in fact the sealing lip rubber which is far far better on the blue ktm one.

canadius · Oct 25, 2017

Thanks all,

Yes, Eu - saw your point regarding the kickstarter, will remember that when I go to reassemble.

Thanks Taff on the extraction point - will try tonight after work. I thought about levering as you suggest, but with all the gears in behind the basket, I was loathe to start crowbarring it out. I have a rubber-tipped deadblow hammer, so I'll get one of my kids to smack it while I pull. I'll get my youngest to smack it, to stay on the safe side ...

I'm suspecting that when the dowel fell in, since the bike was lying flat at the time, it went upward instead of downward like the rest. I've probed up in the top with a fine pencil magnet and nothing. Have shaken the bike, can't see or hear anything. Hoping taking the basket out will reveal it. Failing that, or if I still can't find it, I maybe disconnecting the water pump hose and kicker and removing the whole left side case. Eeek.

Will advise.

cm

canadius · Oct 26, 2017

Still struggling to get this off - will likely employ a puller to remove the basket, as I don't feel comfortable levering off with screwdrivers. Was leaving marks on the inside of the case where the screwdrivers were biting for leverage and still not moving - so not taking chances and ruining the basket and/or the case.

Speaking of the latter, I may remove it also, if required, for better access to search. I've removed shift and kick levers, as well as water pump cover, impeller clip, impeller, and that cross-pin the impeller shaft. the 11 case bolts are out, and the case doesn't budge. Is there more I need to remove, particularly around the water pump shaft?

Bike is on jack, vertically, with skid plate off.

thanks,

cm

Eucl1d · Oct 26, 2017

Maybe a silly questions but you do have the whole clutch side cover off right, not just the clutch inspection plate that is fastened down with 4 bolts?

canadius · Oct 27, 2017

Eucl1d said:
Maybe a silly questions but you do have the whole clutch side cover off right, not just the clutch inspection plate that is fastened down with 4 bolts?

No, not a silly question, since I initially thought the clutch basket could come out the inspection cavity, like the clutch assembly did.

Have now realized the whole side cover has to come off to get the basket off, and after discovering the role of the little protruding tabs, was able to take it off. And indeed, once off, the basket just slid right out.

The bizarre thing is now the cover, basket, etc. is all off - I can't find the last remaining dowel - the whole reason I went in in the first place. The oil drain and screen covers are out, have turned the drive shaft to cycle the piston, shifted the gears - nothing is jamming - it's like it it's either tucked away somewhere, or was missing all along. I searched the entire garage floor - but when they fell out of the basket, none fell on the floor, just three (or so I thought) fell into the clutch side cavity. Rescued two, but the one is still at large.

Very strange - at this point, I'm almost ready to assume that it's not in the motor, even though I don't know where it is.

On the bright side, no signs of wear - gears and inside is flawless - those frequent oil changes by the PO really paid off. Looks like brand new jewelry in there.

CM

Eucl1d · Oct 27, 2017

Sounds like good evidence one dowel was missing. Whether or not you hear a massive crunch upon start up will confirm either way. Though I guess that's little comfort

On a side note, Bushmechanic's recommendation to use the KTM 65 seal (part number 46035056100) on the waterpump side looks to be working just fine - got the coolant up to 70 degrees and no sign of leaks. Was a simple job to remove the old seal and replace it with the new one in situ, though proper picks are required.

canadius · Oct 31, 2017

Eucl1d said:
Sounds like good evidence one dowel was missing. Whether or not you hear a massive crunch upon start up will confirm either way. Though I guess that's little comfort

On a side note, Bushmechanic's recommendation to use the KTM 65 seal (part number 46035056100) on the waterpump side looks to be working just fine - got the coolant up to 70 degrees and no sign of leaks. Was a simple job to remove the old seal and replace it with the new one in situ, though proper picks are required.

Hey Eu,

thanks - parts for the clutch side gasket, clutch sprague and (preventatively) water pump seal ordered up. Should be putting this all back together this weekend.

But I wanted to get ahead of the issue you brought up regarding the kickstarter. I didn't do anything per se with it as part of taking it apart other than simply removing the lever, but you mentioned making sure it not being jammed.

Can you please elaborate on what you did? What I should do now that it's off, or not do?

thx,

cm

Eucl1d · Nov 1, 2017

When you remove the whole clutch-side cover this tends to pull on the kickstart spline ever so slightly which in turn jams the kickstart mech. To prevent this you need to keep pressure on the kickstart spline when removing the cover. This said, it's pretty easy to forget this. IMO this is a silly design flaw which could surely have been resolved with a retaining circlip or similar but I digress!

This video neatly explains how to 'reset' the kickstart mech.

canadius · Nov 2, 2017

Eucl1d said:
When you remove the whole clutch-side cover this tends to pull on the kickstart spline ever so slightly which in turn jams the kickstart mech. To prevent this you need to keep pressure on the kickstart spline when removing the cover. This said, it's pretty easy to forget this. IMO this is a silly design flaw which could surely have been resolved with a retaining circlip or similar but I digress!

This video neatly explains how to 'reset' the kickstart mech.

Thanks Eu,

I only had about 5 min free last night to fiddle with it - and yes, mine was "out" for sure. Wasn't able to push the black shaft/cam assembly in to where the key is trapped in the black track.

I may get my wife or one of my kids to hold the kickstart lever back while I use both hands to push in the cam. I'm loathe to hammer it in like in the video, since the shaft splines are quite corroded, and thus the fit onto the kickstart lever is very tight.

I just don't want to be in a circular loop of pulling the whole assembly out again when I have to remove the lever. I've only got it on about 1/2 into the spline. Now that I'm thinking about it, maybe with the extra hands, I tap with hammer against a socket that's narrower than the ID of the kickstarter spline. Why do I get the ideas at work instead of at 2230 when everyone's already to bed? LOL.

If you have any other tips for pushing against the cam, that'd be great.

cm

canadius · Nov 2, 2017

Update.

I think the kickstart cam/shaft unit is in. Was actually very easy. It all popped apart when I was spinning the cogs as per the video to check the mechanism was working correctly. It truly takes little outward movement and the key slides off the black lip. But now that I've figured it out, it took me less time than it did in the video.

Am I correct in observing that depth-wise, only slightly less than half of the key is atop the black ledge when fully fitted?

Thx.

CM

Eucl1d · Nov 4, 2017

canadius said:
Update.

Am I correct in observing that depth-wise, only slightly less than half of the key is atop the black ledge when fully fitted?

Thx.

CM

Yeah I think that's right and the reason others on the site have suggested shimming it. I didn't though and it's working just fine for me.

canadius · Nov 5, 2017

Thanks. Going to exit this thread and pick up in my orig clutch thread to focus on the issues at hand.

But you've provided some great tips.

Thanks a ton!

CM

Search

Search

Solution to damaged inner clutch hub

Eucl1d

Taffy

canadius

canadius

Taffy

Eucl1d

Taffy

canolman

bushmechanic

canadius

canadius

Eucl1d

canadius

Eucl1d

canadius

Eucl1d

canadius

canadius

Eucl1d

canadius

Similar threads

Register CTA

Recent Discussions