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Sloppy cam-chain

Joined Sep 2006
16 Posts | 0+
Pemberton, BC
So here is how it went.....2002 FE650

Noticed a new weird clicking in the engine. Took it apart and found the new updated rear metal camchain guide I put in had snapped in two. Luckily no other substantial damage and the broken off piece was just sitting on top of the camchain tensioner. I have the old plastic one and put it back in but chain is sloppy. Took out cam chain tensioner and there are slight grooves from where chain ran on end of aluminum knob on tensioner when guide was broken but still has full length and tensioner mechanism is fully extended.

Is my new DID chain kaput?
Should i have upgraded the tensioner when I did the chain and gears?
Can I take a link out of the chain to shorten?
 
HusaPemby said:
So here is how it went.....2002 FE650

Noticed a new weird clicking in the engine. Took it apart and found the new updated rear metal camchain guide I put in had snapped in two. Luckily no other substantial damage and the broken off piece was just sitting on top of the camchain tensioner. I have the old plastic one and put it back in but chain is sloppy. Took out cam chain tensioner and there are slight grooves from where chain ran on end of aluminum knob on tensioner when guide was broken but still has full length and tensioner mechanism is fully extended.

Is my new DID chain kaput?
Should i have upgraded the tensioner when I did the chain and gears?
Can I take a link out of the chain to shorten?

Hallo.
Do not remove a link on the chain, it should be 70L.
How many hrs on the chain, we replace ours when there is no more to extend on the tensioner.
We use the plastic guide, and the 2001-2003 chain from IWS, its double the price from the DID but it lasts much longer.
We use the new tensioner due to that we have some failure on the old before, so we replace them when they get sloppy.
On the 2002 it should be a IWS chain, if you ordered on the correct Id no.
Regards
Thomas
 
Aren't you supposed to have an even number of chain links?

I changed my cam chain after it got banged up. I might have been able to reuse it... or not...

I guess it's the same thing as with a helmet. After a good one on your head, better be safe and get a new one.
 
Thanks for the response from Sweden.

Yes. It is a DID camchain and there is perhaps 20-30 hours on it.

The tensioner seems to be fully extended and the chain is loose. Should I not run the motor like this?
 
OK, maybe I was not clear enough.

No, you can't remove one link. Yes, change the cam chain.

Or ignore what I say, close the top, go ride and see what happens.
 
i'd like to know more about the IWS chain for the doc?

what is the concensus of opinion on this? i thought we were using regina until DID?

and i thought DID WWWAAAAASSS going to be "the business"!!!!! so where did it all go wrong?

regards

Taffy
 
i can tell you that my IWS chain on my 04 model lasted a lot longer than the DID chain .

they stopped the supply of the IWS so i had to use the DID .
 
first of all, i think its a JWIS. 8) secondly, on my 04 450 with 100 hrs, the tensioner was at about 75% so i put in a frogapproved DID. it probably had a little more life in it as it only lifted off the sprocket a little
 
As far as I'm aware from 04 they were fitted with DID, I ordered a new cam chain and was sent a REGINA on fitment it was tight even before the tensioner was fitted.

I sent it back and asked them to send me a DID, it fit perfect with a small amount of free play before fitting the tensioner. So was there a modification of the timing sprockets as well for models 04 and onwards.

Has anybody else fit a REGINA cam chain to an 04 on and had the same issue as me.


Regards

Sparks.
 
We serviced a 05 fe550e that had a IWS(jwis) camchain in it.I know it was never apart so it was stock.
 
Like Taffy has asked.....what cam chain is the correct one to go with IWS or DID and which one is still available in N.A.? I put a DID in as this is what I thought was the best one to go with and now after 20-30 hours it is looser than F#*! Or is it perhaps that it was loose from the start as a result of a bad combination of chain and sprockets. At the same time I put the chain in i put in a new cam sprocket (steel). However, I had a shop do most of the work and didn't observe if the chain was slack or not.

I'm assuming this chain has been sloppy like this for quite some time as now the only difference is the old plastic guide compared to the metal-backed guide that broke. So... it was run hard for 20 to 30 hours like this and then the guide broke. I did observe minor grooving from the chain in the aluminum housing below and forward of the tensioner.
 
sparks said:
As far as I'm aware from 04 they were fitted with DID, I ordered a new cam chain and was sent a REGINA on fitment it was tight even before the tensioner was fitted.

I sent it back and asked them to send me a DID, it fit perfect with a small amount of free play before fitting the tensioner. So was there a modification of the timing sprockets as well for models 04 and onwards.

Has anybody else fit a REGINA cam chain to an 04 on and had the same issue as me.


Regards

Sparks.

The Regina seems to be fit for the pre-04s. On my 2001 FE 501 it fit just fine, was tight but not too much. I replaced a very loose Regina with a new Regina. From what I saw, it can only get looser.

If the new Bergs come with DID chains, then replace the DID chain with a DID chain. I'd rather play safe and not experiment with inner power parts too much.
 
My 2004 650 had a JWIS and when I ordered a replacement (part # 810.36.013.000) I received another JWIS. By the way JWIS are the same chains that KTM's have but the pitch is different.
 
craigy

aha!

i suggest someone looks into this because to have a loose chain and then buy another and find you can barely fit it told me that this was an unlikely but possible answer to our problem!

all i guess we need do is look up the bike specifications and i would think one is imperial and the other will be metric.

regards

Taffy
 
HusaPemby said:
Like Taffy has asked.....what cam chain is the correct one to go with IWS or DID and which one is still available in N.A.? I put a DID in as this is what I thought was the best one to go with and now after 20-30 hours it is looser than F#*! Or is it perhaps that it was loose from the start as a result of a bad combination of chain and sprockets. At the same time I put the chain in i put in a new cam sprocket (steel). However, I had a shop do most of the work and didn't observe if the chain was slack or not.

I'm assuming this chain has been sloppy like this for quite some time as now the only difference is the old plastic guide compared to the metal-backed guide that broke. So... it was run hard for 20 to 30 hours like this and then the guide broke. I did observe minor grooving from the chain in the aluminum housing below and forward of the tensioner.

I had the same thing happen to me. I put in a new DID and just checked it after 10 hours. The tensioner was out 11 clicks - so very near the end of its full extension, I think I only have 4 clicks left. I just ordered a IWS from Motoxotica. I'll report back in a week or so on how its initial fit is.
 
please keep this thread going.

i need to know if we have a pitch difference but essentially i need to know what the phuq is happening!

regards

Taffy
 
The bike is back together with sloppy DID chain and old timing guide and it runs as it did before. Therefore the new DID chain must have been loose from when it was put in. I'll just ride it like this.
 
what i mean is: WTF are we doing having a sloppy chain and a tight chain????????

chains always used to be to imperial measurements but has that changed?

regards

Taffy
 
Ok, I fitted the new IWS timing chain this weekend and it wasn't a whole lot different than the DID. After I fitted it and cranked the engine over a few times by hand, I pulled the tensioner and it was out 7-8 clicks. In comparison, the DID that I replaced was out 11 clicks after approximately 10 hours running time. Both chains have the same pitch. I think part of my problem is that I upgraded to the newer style black plastic tension arm. When I did this, I removed the aluminum knob at the end of the tensioner to compensate for the increased thickness of the tension arm. If I had left the knob on, I think everything would have been good. Right now I'm going to leave it alone for the rest of the season, but will probably weld an extension on the tensioner this winter.
 
It seems unlikely that the chains would have a different pitch,the crank and cam sprockets offer no pitch options.
 

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