Here in California the sound requirements have steadily gone downward. I decided to repack my silencer last weekend in anticipation of competing in some local events. The manual wasn't too clear on the subject but I finally figured it out. After removing the unit, you must drill out the pop rivets at the front of the silencer. The cap will remove easily. Using a pair of needle nose pliers, pull on the packing from opposite sides and you will eventually remove it. It seems to be a sheet of material wrapped around the steel core and glued at one end. Mine was burned pretty well after one year. I used a standard FMF packing kit: http://www.fmfracing.com/products/catal ... mID=011394 which consists of loose long strand fiberglass packing. I wrapped as much as I could around the steel core and then packed in the remainder of the package at the top. I used steel pop rivets to re-install the cap. It IS quieter, although I haven't had it subjected to a sound gun yet. I'll let you know how it does.
Silencer Packing
- Thread starter CelticDude
- Start date
Yeah, it works. i removed all of the old filling. I fitted the centre tube/pipe and packed some fibreglass wadding around the centre. It has to be packed in really tight. then re-riveted the "end cap" back on. Mine was a lot quieter with no noticeable loss of power!
What tools are needed to remove and put new rivets? Pop rivets are a brand, correct? What model machine and rivets should I use? Mine does not need a repack, it needs a new exhaust tip, as Sandskipper was nice enough to give me his old one to replace mine (which is cracked).
Thanks!
Thanks!
Joined Jun 2001
1K Posts | 0+
Pasadena Ca.
Re: RE: Silencer Packing
"Pop rivet" is a type of rivet. You can buy them in just about every hardware or home center.
Just make sure you do not enlarge the rivet holes in the muffler or end cap when you drill out the old ones!
Here is a page from Sears online catalog.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/search.d ... tical=TOOL
Regards,
Joe
LeFrog said:
"Pop rivet" is a type of rivet. You can buy them in just about every hardware or home center.
Just make sure you do not enlarge the rivet holes in the muffler or end cap when you drill out the old ones!
Here is a page from Sears online catalog.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/search.d ... tical=TOOL
Regards,
Joe
RE: Re: RE: Silencer Packing
Thanks, Joe. What size rivets should I get?
I was asking about "POP" because I saw it written with a (R) for registered.
Thanks, Joe. What size rivets should I get?
I was asking about "POP" because I saw it written with a (R) for registered.
Joined Jun 2001
1K Posts | 0+
Pasadena Ca.
I don't know what size as my 00 501 and 04 550 have bolts that hold the end cap not rivets.
There are rivets on the front of the muffler that look like 3/16" dia. I would guess my 6-4 stainless steel rivets would be correct for the job, they are 3/16" dia and 21/64" long. you will need 6 for each end of the muffler. Better check with some one who has already done a 01 though, I think you only have to remove the end cap and the guts can be pulled out.
Look at your parts book!
Regards,
Joe
There are rivets on the front of the muffler that look like 3/16" dia. I would guess my 6-4 stainless steel rivets would be correct for the job, they are 3/16" dia and 21/64" long. you will need 6 for each end of the muffler. Better check with some one who has already done a 01 though, I think you only have to remove the end cap and the guts can be pulled out.
Look at your parts book!
Regards,
Joe
Sorry, can not remember size of pop rivets I used. And bike is 5000 miles away. You need to simply drill the heads off the pop rivet { just enough to push them out or lightly tap them out with a small punch.} But you will need a "pop rivet gun" to fit the rivets. Scouse's hot tip.. if you have elongated or slightly enlarged holes on the exhaut box.. put washers onto the pop rivet to make the rivet tighter.
Also many exhausts originally have the small screws to secure the end caps, but the heat changes of the exhaust make them "round off" when removing them so they get replaced with the cheap and cheerful pop rivet.
Also many exhausts originally have the small screws to secure the end caps, but the heat changes of the exhaust make them "round off" when removing them so they get replaced with the cheap and cheerful pop rivet.
I have never packed my 2001 silencer, replaced it with a big gun. But, I have packed the muffler on my 04. I did not remove the rivets from the motor side. I just removed the end cap bolts and the mid muffler bolts, and pulled out the spark arrestor assembly and perforrated tube and cleaned out the can. Then installed the perforrated tube and then carefully repacked with silent sport packing making sure to keep the perf tube centered.
As noted on the packaging, do not pack the material too tightly. I use a really long large screw driver to install the packing bit by bit, and then leave it a bit long so that when you re-install the spark arrestor assembly there isn't a gap there. After repacking and usind 4400 rpm my bike passed with a 95db rating.
As noted on the packaging, do not pack the material too tightly. I use a really long large screw driver to install the packing bit by bit, and then leave it a bit long so that when you re-install the spark arrestor assembly there isn't a gap there. After repacking and usind 4400 rpm my bike passed with a 95db rating.
Well, there are two screws but they only remove the carbon fiber end cap, not the mount.
I already bought the POP rivets and the tool, it's not as bad as what I have been doing so far on my bike.
I already bought the POP rivets and the tool, it's not as bad as what I have been doing so far on my bike.
repacked the exhaust. but only had wire wool. this will pass the MOT but will burn away quite rapidly! anyway my pop rivet holes were elongated and allowing exhaust to move/rattle. so i stuck some nuts on the inside with a type of metal weld stuff in a tube. the bolts are off a suzuki, they are allen screws with almost flat heads. so they will not rip my pants if/when i fall off. it looks good actually! especiaslly for a bodge job!
I'm a Nor-Cal rider as well I was repacking silencer on my 02 the spark arrestor was trashed? I saw that Lefrog was pushing the pro-moto spark arrestor end has any one used the silent insert? Do I need new packing as well.
Well I am not pushing it, I just reported that Sandskipper had it on his FC. It replaces the stock carbon fiber exhaust bit and makes it USFS approved.
Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 773+
Ely, England
i'm embarrased to say that i've never had to repack a pipe before but i appear to have a pipe with packing only in the lowest corner. yet i only have a few sheets of packing to replace it with?
what's the technique for all this? roll it around the through pipe?
regards
Taffy
what's the technique for all this? roll it around the through pipe?
regards
Taffy
Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 773+
Ely, England
oops!
i have a straight through can by someone over here by the name of MRD or MCD or summink!
came to me used. it's shaped like one of those car ones - you know, square but the inlet and outlket are in-line.
maybe i need to try via the old owner! tyanks anyway!
regards
Taffy
i have a straight through can by someone over here by the name of MRD or MCD or summink!
came to me used. it's shaped like one of those car ones - you know, square but the inlet and outlket are in-line.
maybe i need to try via the old owner! tyanks anyway!
regards
Taffy
Odd, I had a repack story from this last weekend. I signed up for a race that has a 96 dB limit on all bikes. I thought mine was too loud. I went to repack it but one shop had "4 stroke" muffler packing for $24 I called another shop and got 2 big bags of 2 stroke packing for $5. I only needed one bag. I passed the sound check with a rating of 93.1 dB.
It's basically a roll of fluffy fiberglass. I can only assume yours is black dust because the packing's burnt up.
Taffy,
It's like rockwool or fibreglass insulation batts that you build into a house wall or cielling cavity, though sometimes more coarse and strandy like fibreglass roving.
eitherway, pull the endcap off, shake the old burned out ex-packing out and then wrap the perf core up in the new silencer packing / matting and slip it back into the can, then re rivet the end cap on - use some hi temp RTV silicone to seal it up nicely.
'tis a piece of piss, 'ol cobber.
Azza.
It's like rockwool or fibreglass insulation batts that you build into a house wall or cielling cavity, though sometimes more coarse and strandy like fibreglass roving.
eitherway, pull the endcap off, shake the old burned out ex-packing out and then wrap the perf core up in the new silencer packing / matting and slip it back into the can, then re rivet the end cap on - use some hi temp RTV silicone to seal it up nicely.
'tis a piece of piss, 'ol cobber.
Azza.
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