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Yeah it's a shame that it's so difficult to get a good cam to this engine. I find it very annoying.
Nice car
Nice car
Shut down at 60mph after rebuild, won't restart anymore - 2011 FS570
Help Support Husaberg:
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Yea yea 610.
Exactly the same **** that went wrong with my engine. good luck with the rebuild.
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Don't know how many hours your stock piston have but mine measured 99.92mm after 230 hours of use.Thanks mate for the positive feedback! I'll try stay strong and not give up too easily.
Hit me up if you have any questions! I'll try to be as much help as I can.
Very interested to try the ECU. I had similar plans with my stock ECU that I would flash 450fx file in it with 11k limiter. Do you still run stock ecu or aftermarket? The GET ecu is the only thing I'm missing. For now I'll try to get the bike back on the road. Found my stock piston and rings inside the garage. Time to do hi-comp version from that. Deck the cylinder so the piston sits above deck slightly and aim for close to 1mm squish. Might have to put the piston on lathe to reduce the dish and lower the cc. Have to watch out top ring to piston crown distance not getting too close. Have one modified cam still left that I think I'm trying to get work. The decomp lobe needs some machining and have to check also cam base circle runout. First cam version was horrible so much valve train noise.
I've had some bad luck with my toys this year, and been out of the game for the most part of the year. I crashed my pride and joy 4 wheeled supermoto early this year after most of the snow was melted. Now it has been in a body/paint shop for 3 months and still not finished completely...
Bought this thing last year from Japan, because I like to go sideways with more than 2 wheels also. Best decision after the Berg.
I bought a new stock one size 2 that measurers 99.96 but ended up not using it because my cilinder was still same spec as left from factory and clearance was to tight
If your cyl is around 100.012-100.025 after getting it fixed my piston would be perfect for you I would sell it a half price
The ecu you can try for free if you like it you can send yours to fp engineering and later I could use mine if I get the bigger TB in it
My bike revs to 11000rpm now but makes max power around 9000
(I have 2 ecu's with 11000rpm rev limit one for stock tb I am using now and one for the fp engineering TB )
Yea yea 610.
Will be next step if the thing grenades again.
Cylinder has some low spots where the skirt seized, but nothing major. Put compression ring in the bore and can slightly see a light through the ring where the marks are. I don't think the cylinder is affected as it seems otherwise in good condition, and the nikasil plating seems to be in tact. Can't hone or replate it in my country so might as well put it back after deglazing it.
104mm sounds tempting....
Don't know how many hours your stock piston have but mine measured 99.92mm after 230 hours of use.
I bought a new stock one size 2 that measurers 99.96 but ended up not using it because my cilinder was still same spec as left from factory and clearance was to tight
If your cyl is around 100.012-100.025 after getting it fixed my piston would be perfect for you I would sell it a half price
The ecu you can try for free if you like it you can send yours to fp engineering and later I could use mine if I get the bigger TB in it
My bike revs to 11000rpm now but makes max power around 9000
(I have 2 ecu's with 11000rpm rev limit one for stock tb I am using now and one for the fp engineering TB )
Around 90h use with the stock piston. I'll put it on lathe and remove 1-2mm from it on the crown and same amount from the cylinder. Cut the valve pockets deeper and try to run with the cam that was in when I made 69whp.
I can try the ecu if your willing to send it.
Might not be mapped as good as mine, but the revs are interesting. I was making hp all the way up to limiter. I had the Ignijet ecu from fp but it was a complete mess. Tuning software crashed all the time and it didn't register the parameters that were changed.
I know, and it ******* the cam timing small amount, but thats a good thing for top end. I have DJH tensioner so the chain length shouldn't be a issue.
Well I put the cylinder on lathe yesterday and removed 1mm from it on the base gasket side and 1mm from the piston also. Exhaust valve pockets need to be cut slightly deeper. Only 1mm ptv clearance on exhaust side now with the modified cam. Should get decent compression now using stock piston.
One thing still puzzles me. I checked the oil pumps for proper installation and the suction side was correctly like stated in the repair manual (both inner and outer rotor dimples facing inward). The force side pump has the inner rotor dimple facing inward and the manual calls to have it outwards. :dontknow:
It is plain impossible to have it installed like in the manual.
The shaft pin position don't match with inner rotor pin placement and you either have the rotor sitting 5mm above where the metal cap screws in, or the pin won't go back making the shaft not spin the rotor.
Tell me this is correctly installed this way. I'm getting too delusional with the bike.
Well I put the cylinder on lathe yesterday and removed 1mm from it on the base gasket side and 1mm from the piston also. Exhaust valve pockets need to be cut slightly deeper. Only 1mm ptv clearance on exhaust side now with the modified cam. Should get decent compression now using stock piston.
One thing still puzzles me. I checked the oil pumps for proper installation and the suction side was correctly like stated in the repair manual (both inner and outer rotor dimples facing inward). The force side pump has the inner rotor dimple facing inward and the manual calls to have it outwards. :dontknow:
It is plain impossible to have it installed like in the manual.
The shaft pin position don't match with inner rotor pin placement and you either have the rotor sitting 5mm above where the metal cap screws in, or the pin won't go back making the shaft not spin the rotor.
Tell me this is correctly installed this way. I'm getting too delusional with the bike.
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Yes I found the same issue, another member asked the question some time ago as well.
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you are going crazy again with that motor shaving stuff of and so on
Send me a pm with your details if you want me to send the ecu
Send me a pm with your details if you want me to send the ecu
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Hey maKe,
Could you please measure the centre distance for the 6 dowel pins on the gear selector star thingy, I might be able to adapt one to fit the 628 selector drum
if they have the same PCD. The diameter of the roller would be helpful to.
Cheers spanner
Could you please measure the centre distance for the 6 dowel pins on the gear selector star thingy, I might be able to adapt one to fit the 628 selector drum
if they have the same PCD. The diameter of the roller would be helpful to.
Cheers spanner
Sorry Spanner!! I put it back together after taking that pic.
Ok, round two...
Current setup is 1mm shaved from cylinder base and OEM Elko piston with little bit deeper cut exhaust valve pockets. Barely can get the cam chain tightened now. Cam is thumper racing that previously didn't work (hard starting issues). Put auto decompression shaft from the failed cam that has broken exhaust lobe, and now it works perfectly.
https://youtu.be/jADP7UVZ8og
Ok, round two...
Current setup is 1mm shaved from cylinder base and OEM Elko piston with little bit deeper cut exhaust valve pockets. Barely can get the cam chain tightened now. Cam is thumper racing that previously didn't work (hard starting issues). Put auto decompression shaft from the failed cam that has broken exhaust lobe, and now it works perfectly.
https://youtu.be/jADP7UVZ8og
Last edited:
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Great news!
I just spend some money on other necessary maintnance forks serviced, new center fo beringer disc (was worn out bought it used).
Some new fuel hoses/front numberplate,new trailtech vapor (its the second unit that failed on my 570).
Now save a couple more months and get that TB for my bike
I just spend some money on other necessary maintnance forks serviced, new center fo beringer disc (was worn out bought it used).
Some new fuel hoses/front numberplate,new trailtech vapor (its the second unit that failed on my 570).
Now save a couple more months and get that TB for my bike
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- Belgium brugge
my ecu is on its way to you
Last edited:
- Joined
- Oct 30, 2012
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- Belgium brugge
I would like to have dyno comparision of my bike now vs completely the same but wuth stock piston...
But it's a whole lot of work/money just to find out what the benefits realy are of the high comp carillo piston.
I do'nt think the bike gains anything seat of the pants maybe it revs a bit easy'r/holds the power for longer but maybe performance midrange/low stock design is better???
What would the piston/ring life be of the carillo piston mine is used +- 25 hours
I got 230+ hours out of stock one but the rings needed replacement and piston was worn to minimum size (99.92mm) still looked good as new though.
I am thinking of replacing the rings on my cp piston this winter at approx 30 hours but maybe not necessary....
otherwise carry on till +- 60 hours.
I do'nt ride on the road anymore so the bike does not ride that much but it is more at full throttle....
But it's a whole lot of work/money just to find out what the benefits realy are of the high comp carillo piston.
I do'nt think the bike gains anything seat of the pants maybe it revs a bit easy'r/holds the power for longer but maybe performance midrange/low stock design is better???
What would the piston/ring life be of the carillo piston mine is used +- 25 hours
I got 230+ hours out of stock one but the rings needed replacement and piston was worn to minimum size (99.92mm) still looked good as new though.
I am thinking of replacing the rings on my cp piston this winter at approx 30 hours but maybe not necessary....
otherwise carry on till +- 60 hours.
I do'nt ride on the road anymore so the bike does not ride that much but it is more at full throttle....
From my own experience I'd say the CP hi-comp is not going to do much unless you run huge camshaft or some exotic fuels. Like you said low and mid gets slight boost, but top end is unaffected or a tad weaker because of excessive cylinder pressure.
Too much compression can actually make less power if you don't have a matching cam/head/tuning combination. The CP weights also approx 50g more than stock and the pin they include is also **** tons heavier than stock. Stock is also dlc coated so it would be stupid to not use it. I still have unused CP wrist pin if anyone wants.
Now that I have the machined stock piston back in (90 hours piston and rings) I'm quite positive that the bike feels better and more responsive. The design is also different vs CP. CP is flat top and stock is a combination of dish and small dome in the middle. Some may argue flat top being best design to achieve optimal squish and high compression at the same time, but I think theres more than that in optimal piston design. Something about how the head cc is shaped and when the mixture is ignited to spread the pressure across the piston crown evenly.
I wouldn't worry about the rings before 150 hours. Do your oil changes regularly and the motor lasts forever. Theres no point to change parts if not needed. Hell I have a seized cylinder with few low spots here and there, and a old piston. Bike pulls better than ever and doesn't smoke or consume oil. Yes the nikasil is really strong material so that helps the durability of the cylinder a lot.
Too much compression can actually make less power if you don't have a matching cam/head/tuning combination. The CP weights also approx 50g more than stock and the pin they include is also **** tons heavier than stock. Stock is also dlc coated so it would be stupid to not use it. I still have unused CP wrist pin if anyone wants.
Now that I have the machined stock piston back in (90 hours piston and rings) I'm quite positive that the bike feels better and more responsive. The design is also different vs CP. CP is flat top and stock is a combination of dish and small dome in the middle. Some may argue flat top being best design to achieve optimal squish and high compression at the same time, but I think theres more than that in optimal piston design. Something about how the head cc is shaped and when the mixture is ignited to spread the pressure across the piston crown evenly.
I wouldn't worry about the rings before 150 hours. Do your oil changes regularly and the motor lasts forever. Theres no point to change parts if not needed. Hell I have a seized cylinder with few low spots here and there, and a old piston. Bike pulls better than ever and doesn't smoke or consume oil. Yes the nikasil is really strong material so that helps the durability of the cylinder a lot.
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I tryed to use different pin but the stock does not fiit (carillo pin is a bit shorter and more domed at the ends).
Machining stock pin could work but I just threw everything in suplied with the piston.
Yes the piston is over 30 grams heavy'r and the fact I run a carrilo con rod does not help either (adds another 50 gr).
Machining stock pin could work but I just threw everything in suplied with the piston.
Yes the piston is over 30 grams heavy'r and the fact I run a carrilo con rod does not help either (adds another 50 gr).
