shock tuning for enduros

Thanks Bushie,

there is a guy in SA called Walter Presig, he is one of the directors / engineers behind YSS suspension, he formerly worked close with WP, I got to know him through a sidecar outfit interest, I thought of trying to get to talking with him sometime (when cash is good again).

Forks appear to be the big prob on my bike - and not enough riding at the moment it is cos of surgery - a bit tender you see,

the offer is reciprocal, if you are ever on skippy rock or in Adelaide and want to come over holler out - beer is allways on the menu.

Azza.

how many mls

just did my fork seals if anyone would like to know with a 100mm air gap (spring out, fully compressed,7.5 w putoline fork oil ,my forks took 600mls each leg one litre wont cut it ,cannot find anywhere where this is said the only thing i did read was that 1 litre would be enough in the doc? and ktm/husaberg dealers cannot tell you either,can only tell you air gap.if you want more or less air gap i think i read somewhere that 10mm equals 26mls approx so add or subtract makes it easier than trying to suck it up,make sure when you put oil in bleed as you go by pulling the bottoming cone up and down until you hear all bubbles gone.just thought i would share

RE: how many mls

and not enough riding at the moment it is cos of surgery - a bit tender you see,

Click to expand...

ouch! get well soon. some say the forks perform much better when the shocks working properly but IMHO its easy to tell when the shock has absolutely no influence ove rthe forks like heavy downhill braking sections. any problems that the forks already have they will still have regardless of the shock.

taffy if it helps any with the doc the 12mmm rod forks need 650ml each leg to get around 100mm air gap so need 2 bottles too.

weed this is a link to the shocks/ forks that the factory guys are suposedly running or at least have access to. http://www.wpsuspension.co.uk/product_trax_movie.php
they even offer forks for yamahas and kawkas ????????

regards
Bushie

yeh thanks bushy
you hit the nail on the head.
thats whats the pro riders would be running for sure.
after riding the pieces of crud i use to ride,i should not complain.
maybe the younger generation is a bit spoiled ........back in my day......blah blah blah
starting to sound like my old man.
..weed..

hi all,just a little one to have a think about.
been muck"en around with shock pressures of late.
one thing i know for sure,that is don't let your shock pressure go under 180psi (thats by my gauge,wouldn't think it would be too far out).
when i got this shock off bushy it had 180psi in it & at the same time i slipped in a 85-115 progressive spring,took it for a ride through the largest jumps/woow boys that go riding in & it seemed to handle the rough stuff good,no real complaints.
next ride i tried it with 160psi & screwed the preload down a tad so it sat the same.
no comparision , i could feel it bottom out many times,shocky just blows through 1/2 stroke onwards.cavitation is a real problem.
next ride 200psi,but didn't get the spring preload right, so it was too hard right from the start of the stroke.pretty much got the thing how i like it now with 200psi & spring preload to suit.
i'm using the extra shock pressure so i can back the spring preload off.
a shocky being a shocky won't rebound quick when the pressure upped (a spring will)not as much rebound is needed to control the back wheel from kicking back making fast log crossings etc.
here is a couple of pics that relate shock pressure to actual weight,if interested.
25-26kg=160psi
29-30kg=180psi
32-33kg=200psi
measured when the shocky just starts to compress
..weed..

in fact i have had week off,luckily not only to watch the 20/20 world cup.
hate to say it,but the aussie side has never been the same since gilchrist,mcgrath & warne has retired.he carried on like a bit of a knob,but the boy could always tip the odds in our favour.bout time we copp'ed a flog'en,stops them from getting too cocky.
here is another one to keep in mind.
the late model shocky bumper stop just touches the bottom of the shock body at 200mm of travel or 160mm below the bottom of the frame.
pushing down as hard as i could on the rear frame with no spring,the bump stop allows only 270mm of full rear suspension travel (not 320mm like is stated in the specs for "fe" models).which is 90mm between top of rear knob & bottom of frame.
i cut the bump stop rubber back so now it touches the bottom of the shock at 260mm travel or 100mm below the frame.
pushing down as hard as i could on the rear frame now,the bump stop compresses to 305mm of full suspension travel or 55mm below the rear frame.
same as what i was doing with the forks,extending the travel,why not its there to be used?
i have got it to bottom out with the extra travel,but only just.i'm still fiddling with the clickers a bit so i will see how it handles different tracks.
the only problem i can see,is it may need another hs shim in the comp stack to compensate for the bump rubber aiding the compression.
see how it goes..weed..
heres a couple of pics
1st is bump stop just touching the bottom of the shock body
2nd pic bump stop fully compressed
3rd bump rubber cut

interesting stuff, still plenty of room for a 16 paddle

do the rod force weights include the shock weight ?

popup, all i have to say on the matter is..........i think your due a new chain mate!

pete

http://gday, there again lads
bushy,you are right,no problems for clearance,i would love to try one of those 16 paddles on sand just for the video camera,see who can do the biggest rooster..zip yah..this poor old bitch cops a hammer'en.
shocky weight not included in pressure to scales weight.
taffy,send me through the your super shim stack,i will see if i can make sense of it at a later date when i pull the shocky down.doesn't seem to be a real lot of difference between 180 & 200psi,just got to alter the sag to suit.ill just have a bit more of a play with both over different tracks before i will give my verdict.
no problem with the std 01 muffler hitting the caliper,at the new 305mm wheel travel or 55mm below frame there is still 70mm between muffler & top of brake caliper,as shown in pic below.
at least now i can put a zip tie around the rod to see if i get full shocky travel.(as in pic)
grasstrackpete,believe it or not that d.i.d chain is only 6 months old,.i broke a $180 regina chain for the 2nd time(not on the same sprockets)& just replaced the chain & front sprocket.anyone had problems with the regina's,soon as the grease dry's out between the links the tend to break.
..weed..
[img]http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss7/weed68/shockbottomedoutwithziptiepushedinb.jpg

easy schrader valve conversion no mods needed to the shock

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showth ... p?t=739422

just use a presto valve and stick an adaptor on it can't beleive it wasn't tried sooner

Smart performance SPI-3 is the ducks guts in shocks. I don't like it in forks but for shocks nothing comes close. it lasts near 60 hrs in my TTX compared to 15hrs for conventional oils. Its in Weeds shock. Drehwurm has experience with it in WP stuff you could ask him.

if its not been done for 5 years change the oil first nothing else.

I use soft alloy jaws in the vice and wrap the shock in a rag.

Racetech have their P range of progressives they've been around for a while though. Teknik in aust have some springs that use tapered wire (I think)

I'd just get a gallon from the US.

or in the UK maybe contact "shockdoc" or "mog" on TT

if you want big barrels of cheap stuff, BP make energol shf lt 15 a high VI 15Cst (2.5wt) synthetic forklift hydraulic oil for use in sub zero temps or just use BP bartran HV 15

the Bartran HV15 is a very good suspension fluid