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Shim thickness, MV

M

mikaels

Joined May 2008
7 Posts | 0+
Sweden
Hello,

I decided to follow your advice and update my fork with a MV instead of the more check valve behaviour which exists in the -02 fork.
Three weeks ago I ordered the parts and I am still waiting.
I have some understanding that some parts could have some delivery time but I was surprised that the 8X24X0,1 shim is no longer possible to get.
WP has replaced it with an 8X24X0,4?!?!

So, WP seems to introduce the check valve again!

How much influence has the MV?
In which riding conditions have the MV most influence?

Thanks for all help I can get.
 
Any dealer should be able to get them 8x24x0.1 shims for you from Jofrab, maybe even next day. Regards.
 
I would go to another shop, 3 weeks is too long to wait for a simple item.

8x24x0.11 are available through yamaha 1.33 times stiffer than the 0.1s.

try searching the internet for shims from suspension sites, the wp shims are nothing special.

regards
Bushie
 
For the midvalve the showa/kayaba shims, of 0.12mm are nice. Just a little bit more "strength" which can't hurt in the midvalve environment. Bear in mind they are 1.33 times stiffer, as Bushie pointed out. And like Lew said, the faster shaft movements are their terrain. When used with low lifts.
 
assuming similar material properties 0.12 would be about 1.73 times stiffer than a 0.1 ?

their thickness vairies a bit anyway from what Ive seen so its not that important i guess.
 
(.05/.10)^3=.125
(.10/.10)^3=1 Husaberg KTM Etc.
(.11/.10)^3=1.33 Japs
(.12/.10)^3=1.73
(.15/.10)^3=3.4
(.2/.10)^3=8
(.4/.10)^3=64
 
Thanks for the information.
I will go for the thicker shims.

The waiting time is due to parts out of stock at the main stock and WP.
 
Yamaha or Honda do not offer the shims as a spare part.
Any hints about where I can find 8x24x0,11/0,12?
Preferably, somewhere in Sweden.
 
Used 0.11 mm shims in good condition can sometimes be found where they service and tune a lot of shocks and forks. But if you need new ones i have no longer any idea really.
0.10 shims from Jofrab (Garage 24), Gothenburg(?) should on the other hand normally be no problem at all.
Of other thicknesses it is notable that 0.125 mm is at very near 2 times the stiffness of a 0.1 mm shim.
Regards
 
sounds like *********** is trying to fix the problem of the 1st 0.1mm face shim (how it concaves in no time)
4x0.1mm = 1x0.4mm
is that the way everyone else sees it?
i put a 0.15mm face shim in mine.next time i get a chance i'll pull it down & see if its hacking the pace better that a 0.1mm
..weed..
 
popup said:
sounds like *********** is trying to fix the problem of the 1st 0.1mm face shim (how it concaves in no time)
4x0.1mm = 1x0.4mm
is that the way everyone else sees it?
i put a 0.15mm face shim in mine.next time i get a chance i'll pull it down & see if its hacking the pace better that a 0.1mm
..weed..
Click to expand...
They have always used 4 or more 24x.10's. I don't look at it as a "flaw"...what do you want? Performance or XR reliability? Really can't have both...I know Bushy will disagree...

But I also have used (1)24x.15 and it lasted several seaons.
 
ahh

I mean the smorgy backer thingies

perfect support on compression

I believe the damage occours on transition from comp to rebound when the shims slam into the MV body?

FWIW my MV face shim still cops a fair hammering.

the only MV I ran without dammage was 1 24x0.11 with 1.2mm float on a 12mm radius smorgy backer, the forks rebound was very consistent but they were soft and mushy, not at all on their limit.

I agree actually, no matter what mods you do or how much you improve the forks they will still have a limit, if they are not shimmed to that limit they are lacking some performance. we probably disagree on the mechanism for the damage wink wink but end up with the same result,

I think that if the damage ocoured on compression the 0.15 would cup faster than a 0.1 since you can't bend it as far before exceeding its elastic limit?
 
bushmechanic said:
ahh

I mean the smorgy backer thingies

perfect support on compression

I believe the damage occours on transition from comp to rebound when the shims slam into the MV body?

FWIW my MV face shim still cops a fair hammering.

the only MV I ran without dammage was 1 24x0.11 with 1.2mm float on a 12mm radius smorgy backer, the forks rebound was very consistent but they were soft and mushy, not at all on their limit.

I agree actually, no matter what mods you do or how much you improve the forks they will still have a limit, if they are not shimmed to that limit they are lacking some performance. we probably disagree on the mechanism for the damage wink wink but end up with the same result,

I think that if the damage ocoured on compression the 0.15 would cup faster than a 0.1 since you can't bend it as far before exceeding its elastic limit?
Click to expand...

IMO guys spend too much time trying to get more deflection "room" for the mid-valve stack when they should be looking at ways to support it...if you think you need 3.0 mmm of deflection then you don't need a mid-valve "stack"...ck-plate that baby.
 
why not have the best of both setups?

all the benefits of a zero float MV with perfect support in whatever shape you desire that also allows the shims to blowoff as far as is needed at ultra high speed hits.... however far that is... who knows really.
 
Well, to chime in, i am on the low float boat, 0.1mm, and do not believe in zero float or clamped midvalves. The minute you clamp a 0.1 shim or stack for that matter, it really strengthens them enormous.
Blow offs are too unpredictable imo.I want to be sure that hard hits gonna hurt in a familiar way.
You do need support, and this where you have to modify yr midvalve taps.
Good midvalves have low float, less shims, and better support, and perhaps need better directed oil flow.
 
Good midvalves have low float, less shims, and better support, and perhaps need better directed oil flow.
Click to expand...

absolutely, thats been my experience too

each to their own approach I guess, blowoff springs on my Mvs make the forks more predictable, crisper and tunable than a conventional approach. granted it takes some testing to get the rates and the prelaod right but its worth it. perhaps not something a professional tuner has time to develop properly. to get it really right i beleive you need 2 blowoff springs or a curved backer, just MHO.

if I want the forks to hurt more ? or be crisper I just use a stiffer spring and prelaod it more Ill do a post soon on my crazy Mvs. as a whole package with all the crazy mods while I can still see room for improvement, I have them good enough that guys with jap MX bikes want my forks. :?

I read on the net that the kyb shims are "supposed" to be 0.114mm ? must be true!

regards
Bushie
 

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