Setup to help from under steering

Lets see you could readjust the front and rear supensions because the front and rear need to match each other. The rebound settings might be to high, bleed the air screws on top of the forks ( be careful because they will wring off). How I know don`t ask . Check the tire pressures. There are a lot of things that can cause under steer. If you know a supension shop or a dealer near you talk to a person who sets the bikes up and ask them concerning what your bike does. They can give some advice or tips as to how to fix your problem. Bikes have changed a lot sense the 70s and it takes some getting used to. Do a search and see what you come up with. Over all I think setting your supension up and tire choice and pressures should get you pointed in the right direction. Read the sticky at the top of handling and suspension that is a start. Good luck and hope this helps.

Start by setting the sag @ 100mm and adjust as needed for your weight.
db

kingy

buy the tallest seat you can and this will do two things

1) it'll throw your weight forward in a corner because you'll be so high-think of yourself sat ontop of a 60's pram (you don't have to suck le at this point though....!)

2) the seat will allow you further forward because there will be no upward slope.

drop your forks through even further

run michelin S12s. they have a diomond pattern instead of square on each of the outter tread lines. the best tyre bar none!

make sure that both ends work correctly as has been said. set the sag AND do it on the front as well!

tyre pressures to 11-13 pounds per square inch (sorry don't know the metric)

do all your braking BEFORE the corner and even then only use the rear to drag into the corner.

ride the corner on an 'even' throttle!

there! that should do it!

regards

Taffy

oh and BTW, consider a set of KTM short-offset triple clamps from later years. not sure what forks you run but if they're upside downers you may find that they fit.

i have a report on them from mid-summer in my race report thread and i raved them at the time!

regards

Taffy

Where does one get the taller seat?

Is it ok to only change the foam?

How about this vendor:

http://www.thumper-racing.net/cgi-bin/e ... 160X362143

no they won't do nick. the taller seats are from guts racing but if i were you-and i know that you also like to save a bob or two-i would take the standard seat to a custom shop or valeter etc and tell them what you want and the gripper seat material. don't worry about pimpled this or that, just make sure it's grippy!

i got my trimmer to slash a slit in the guts of the sponge just like filleting a fish.

he then put in that chip foam. used a heat gun to stretch the material and it cost me just £10.

now that's your kind of money too i think!

regards

Taffy

I am actually thinking about getting the foam and learning to do that trick myself.

I wonder what type of foam though.

I am already looking in the right direction, I hope:

http://mayercycle.homestead.com/Foam.html

Anybody got a used seat to sell? Just for experimenting!

Oh and I got the seat cover material, some dude on Thumpertalk ripped me off. Sold me some grip material claiming it was custom-made, my hiney... Got burned $30 for $5 worth of material that I am still trying to guess the nature of.

Black, grainy, extendable... Should I post a photo?

Ooops sorry for hijacking the thread...

i think i already said but incase you missed it-chipfoam appears to be fine.

regards

Taffy

Tall seat - I just bought an OEM Husaberg tall seat from my local dealer. 1000 SEK ~ 100 Euro. That way I can swap and let my wife ride... 8O
I had serious understeering issues myself until I had a chance to watch and discuss this with better riders. I turned out to be my lack of shifting CG, that is, I was too comfortable sitting in the low spot on the seat. I had to learn to be far more active moving my body. Watching myself on a video and comparing to the technique of the really good riders in my club was a REAL eyeopener. I looked more like an old fart on a goldwing. Got a lot better since... A tall seat is flat and helps you from thinking the low spot is where you should be sitting!

aspen

better late than never!

we DID say it here first!

regards

Taffy

True, but you are an avid rider. I bet it was a long time since you had to learn. My point is that before getting too technical about settings etc, get the basics sorted. No adjustments could ever have helped me, since I had the CG way wrong. From a beginner to another.

six years ago i went to an enduro, i'd never been near a dirtbike. i rode one for the first time in march 2000.

i was riding one day and i realised that the seat was so low that as i arrived at corners and began to sit it was in this "zone" i got tired. the bit JUST as you sit and JUST as you stand.

so i bought a tall seat! i found i was sitting maybe 10cm further forward at the most but that there was still a 'rise' near the tank. so i did it again!

far from being experienced, i'm a methodical learner. i spend ages thinking about my riding and tuning. that's because i have very little money. there isn't a part i don't try to develop. i wish i spent less time working on it and more time at the track. that's what i need at the age of 44-track time!

anyway, you got there and now go try some of the other stuff as well!

regards

Taffy

i would think that if you ask dale lineaweaver nicely he will know whether there are any TCs that swop out. i doubt that husaberg chnaged them though-they've only produced the 2mm TC every year since 2000 till this years adjustables came along.

regards

Taffy

Yup like the others said adjust the rear sag first....when my SM hits the TT track after a regular SM track I set the rear sag at 100MM I get around the middle clicks on the compression as well rebound....If I leave it at 6-8 off on both settings its like it wants to push threw the corner, as soon as I make that adjustment the bike turns in very well....my KX likes a softer front end as well makes a bike diff with turn in.....After trial and error I learned to make small adjustments at a time

If you've got the WP extreme conventionals you've got a great set of forks!!

As stated earlier, FIRST! set the rear sag @ 3 & 3/4" I'm not sure what that is in mm's. You can vary the setting between 3 & 1/2 and 4", BUT, start out with 3 & 3/4" FIRST. This setting is with you on the bike with all of your gear on, and a half tank of gas, with about a closed fist distance between your package and the gas cap (thumb side towards your package and little finger at the gas cap). Have someone help hold the bike for you while the bike is getting measured. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP YOU CAN TAKE IN MAKING YOUR BIKE HANDLE WELL, DO NOT UNDERESTIMATE THE IMPORTANCE OF GETTING THIS RIGHT!!!!!!!

Now, refer to your owners manual and set all the clickers to their suggested postions, unless the guy who owned the bike before you had the suspension re done by a shop and they changed the set points for the clickers.

Now, go and ride the bike, be sure and keep your weight forward, your chin should be over the center line of the bars when entering a corner, and like another post stated, adjust your position as neccessary.

A quesiton that has not been asked so far, how long has it been since the suspension components have been serviced??? It's usually about 40 to 50 hours on the shock, and a bit longer on the forks as they do not get as hot. This can also make a huge difference in how the bike handles.

And like another post stated, keep a steady throttle through the corner if you can. If you jazz the throttle going through the corner it's going to load and unload the chassis and make it diificult to hold a consistent line.

I had a bike very similar to yours and once I got it dialed it cornered great, as long as I was aggressive.. Good luck

Everyone has pretty much nailed down the important issues of sag, riding position, and bleeding the forks. On suspension settings, if the front is stiff on compression and/or light on rebound it will cause the front to run high. Should notice harhness. Conversely if the rear is light on compression and/or heavy on rebound it will run low in the rear. Will feel loose and yet get stiff in long bump sections from packing. Either case leads to slow steering. Find the factory specs and adjust accordingly for a starting point. Have bought some used bikes with crazy settings from the previous owner.
Dan

you do realise that if we run the exact same rear shocks as KTM that you're all setting your sags WRONG!

regards

Taffy