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Setting Sag, absolutely the best thing you can do!

Joined Oct 2006
746 Posts | 1+
Kangaroo Island, South Australia
Well,
Yesterday, I got my head into shape and decided to set the sag settings on my FE550e '05.

It took about 4 Hours tops from reading all the relevant looking forum posts here on UHE, and going over the manual, and some testing.

I am BLOWN AWAY at the difference that such a small adjustment can make!

I measured free sag =660mm, then dropped the bike down onto the ground and bounced it up and down a bit and came up with a sprung weight sag of 610mm (15mm less than desired basic set up in the 05 users manual.

next I went to work on the preload tensioner nut, winding it in (clockwise) 3/4 of a full turn, this brought the sag up to 35mm per the specification=625mm sag.

I did the race sag test, and despite my weight being more than the basic set up weight, the race sag was within the 105mm reccomendation, with that, I went for a test ride on a short trail with rocks and sand.

All I can say is that I am astonished at the difference that such a small adjustment can make!! I went for a ride today, and I estimated that the better suspension accounted for at least 10 - 15 kph faster than my normal speed, and got rid of the slight head shake 'shimmy' that I used to get on corrugated track and sand, it was that good!

anyone who is a bit disenchanted with their Bergs handling should read up and do this simple adjustmen.

smoothly,
Azza
 
well done azza

you might find that if you go by your race sag and not your static sag of 35mm - a figure of 95-100mm would be better still!!!!

regards

taffy
 
yes you are on the right track, static sag and rider sag is absolutely the most important thing you can do, most people are all driven with getting more power out of there dirt bikes, bass akwards if ya ask me, you need to get the handling sorted out first like you r doing. Our bike are especially sensitive to geometry.

Sethro
 
first thing i always set no matter what bike i get.

but being a lard *** usually have to up-spring to get it set right.
 
I have found that 33mm of static sag works great for me with a PDS 8 spring, and that works out to around 3 3/4" to 4" of sag with me on the bike.. I weigh about 210 to 215 with all my gear on.
 
After reading what you guys have said, I reckon I might try to windon another 1/4 turn of preload, that should put it at the upper end of the scale.

somewhere about 32 - 33mm sag, I mindfully set it conservatively, because I didnt know what to expect, but I like the result!!

Thanks to everyone who put tech advice on UHE, sometimes its hard to grasp the first time while reading it, but sit down in the shed with the bike and read it, and follow along with your bike, and it all comes to hand very easily.

Azza.
 
quite right azza - it isn't easy and reading it and trying it are worthwhile as you've discovered. please recall that the sag can be 35mm plus or minus 2mm so you're still quids in as we would say over here!

as i say - this one is for the handling, up to a barrel turn round it and see if the bike doesn't grip better.

regards

Taffy
 
explain sommink to me taff

the husaberg has no linkage , i always thought that with no linkage sag would not be so critical .

when i had my berg i had very little if no sag , but had razor sharp steering .

you savvy ???
 
whosaberg

if you had no sag on the rear you were jacked up and the steering head angle was steep!

rather like roadbikes from the early 90's they appear to have the headstock angles sufficiently steep now that it's a thin line between quick steering and stability. ask a katoom rider when they're not set up too well what it feels like.

sag is simply setting the ride height to that which the manufacturer thought was optimum. we have to start somewhere, what they think is best followed by what we think is best!

regards

Taffy
 
Hey! Some guys still gots to be able to touch with at least one toe! Sag in the rear is a requirement unless I want to give 'er a push and jump on... Really, you know a little sag goes a long way to working the whoops and keeping the tire in contact with the ground, even in medium bumps. The amount of sag will be relative to your weight (height, too, in my case), riding style, speed, and typical terrain..take all these into account in an attempt to keep your rear tire touching the ground a much as possible to fully utilize the damping action of the shock (it then can be taken advantage of for the relative compression and rebound settings). Whew! Allot of words and no help, I'll bet... Remember, if you are riding really fast through whoops, you will need more sag to keep the tire riding between the bumps and you sitting pretty on your steed.

MarkT
 
Setting the sag is one of the best things you can do! I have always used it as an indicator as to whether or not you have the correct spring for your weight. If you cannot get within range for both static and rider sag, you need a different spring. Then to add to the fun, try raising and lowering the fork tubes in the triple clamps throughout the available range. The differences in handling are fun to play with.
 
Yep,

after my inital sag setting foray, my first ride was a real surprise! it was like a new bike, it felt as if the wheels were on the ground for the first time, the way it was previously felt as if the tyres had been skipping an' bouncing everywhere.

Taff,
Ever since I got the 550, I've used the spare block next door to do tight figure 8's for practice on balance and clutch / brake / throttle control, I know from my ride on Sunday that the whole lot is way better, even though It did go pear shaped when I washed out on a sweeping gravel corner at about 60kph.

I definately intend on refining this adjustment some more.

Azza
 

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