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Roller bearing in wrong place?

M

mikst

Joined Sep 2002
323 Posts | 3+
Sweden
Hi,

I have started to dissemble my engine. When I splitted the engine I found that the right hand main crankshaft bearing is a roller bearing, Japan EC NTN 206ECS46. Shouldn't it be a ball bearing? Didn't checked the left hand due to lack of time but I assume there is a roller bearing as well.
It's a FE501e -02.

How do I assembly the engine again? Which measures must I check? Does it influence other measures as crankshaft width etc? Can I use the -04 workshop manual?
 
How many hours were on your bike? Was there a reason to open the engine? Mine(02-470) has done about 60hrs and I am in doubt wether or not to have a look inside.
I believe the ignition side has the roller bearing and the clutch side has a ball bearing. This is one of the mods to do; replace the ball bearing by a roller bearing(also measure the freeplay of around 0,7mm I thought). Plus we have a one row balancerbearing and this may be replaced by a double row?
 
Since it has been quality problem this year I lost the count but I think the engine has 130 hours. I wanted to split the engine due to the counter balancer bearing(s). It's a little more than 50 hours so I don't want it to make a new oil drain hole. I haven't checked if I have one or two bearings in the counter balancer. In the parts manual it stood ball bearing in the right hand case, if I didn't looked at wrong number :?.

The timing chain is time to replace too. It was one notch left on the tensor. Thinking of finding a Regina chain but I haven't found any in Sweden yet. The camshaft isn't what it should be, the upper sprocket is worn too but I don't think if I need to replace that one yet. The clutch is soon gone too. That's strange since I only use it when I change gear. Not using it much when I am riding in the forest. I will replace some other bearings too due to that I have the engine in parts already. After this it hopefully will run 100 hours more, even it is a Husaberg, without any major problem.
 
i started all thei 'heavy duty chain' stuff and all i said was 'an early camchain' from an earlier husaberg. so if you ask for the chain from say a 1990 and ask the dealer to look at it compared to a newer one he will find the older model's chain has broader sideplates etc. it may even say 'renolds' on the box if you have any luck!!!!!!

the clutch drum wears because people do clutchless gearchanges and it causes the very narrow plates (1mm and less) to 'cut' into the drum. the basket is steel, the plates are steel so the drum is the 'weakest ling'.

regards

Taffy
 
mikst: Any updates on what you have found in your motor? My 02 470 has had only ball bearing's for the cranks shaft? Please up date!
 
Hi,

Now I have dissemble my engine further. Yes, the two main crankshaft bearings are roller bearings. So, I need a tool to remove the inner part of the bearing to change the counter balancer bearings. It's a double bearing balancer. I saw it on the driving shaft counter balancer. I assume I also need to replace the timing chain sprockets when I replace the timing chain.

Also need to figure out how to measure the play in conrod and the connecting rod. Since I have roller bearings, do I need to replace them since they handle far more load?
 
Hi mikst
If the roller bearings are good I hade leave them . On my -01 I only replace bad bearings then i is apart. For timming spocket if it is good you don't to replace but the for tensor you may need make i longer.
For the conrod you can measure the play whith a indikator clock but the best is see how the surfase (ytan) on the bearing but you have to splitt the crank to see.
(Tar lite på svenska )
Då någon har byt lite lager sen tidigare i din motor & det sitter dubbla lager på balansaxel om dom snurrar lätt och är utan glapp skulle jag låta dom vara.Vevstaks lager rullar brukar jag byta efter ca 100 timmar om tapp & stake ser bra ut i förebyggande syfte.Kopplingcentrum brukar fara illa men kan ev fillas till om inte det blivit för stora hack.Slirrar din koppling ? Snik versionen är att lägga till en extra stålplatta om övriga delar är sjusta då brukar det fungera.Jag brukar hällre ta i sär motorn en gång för mycket bara för att kolla att allt är ok än att få ett haveri då det är ganska enkelt att ta isär motorn och få ett haveri långt ute i skogen är inte kul. Jag byter oftast bara o-ringar om dom är skadade & det har då fungerat för mig men då kan jag ta att jag får ta isär saker en extra gång om det behövs /Jonas
 
Miskt,

it is quite common for the main bearings to be changed to the configuration of deep groove ball bearing on the clutch side and roller on that of the stator. I've heard many theories on why it's "better", all very convincing, none conclusive.

I have personally always opted for deep groove ball bearings because of their better acceptance of slight misalignment.

I've never experienced a main bearing failure - just about everything else has failed around them at some point in time :D

Cheers,
Simon
 
I have been in contact with the one who have built my engine at Husaberg. The bearings are from KTM 520. Since I have double bearings in the counter balancer he was forced to press the crankshaft together as tight as possible. I measured the axial clearance and it is 0.35 mm. The axial clearance for the total crankshaft in the housing should be maximum 0.3 mm.

The main problem with these bearings is that the inner ring cracks. If not so the next sign of wear is very likely spalling/pitting. The bearing which normally goes first is the counter balancer shaft bearing. He also told me that the DID timing chain seems to work very well.

If the bearing in the conecting rod goes is it probably due to lack of lubrication. It's stop up in the hole which should supply the bearing with oil.
 

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