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rocker cover gasket anyone?

Taffy

Taffy

Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 774+
Ely, England
i have cleaned up my old rocker cover for the third time with a gentle rub on the sheet of glass and i now have a high point with it sat ON the cam. fair enough! i always knew this would happen but i thought i'd ask before i try it, if anyone had tried knocking out a gasket to do the job?

i bet if someone has done it - they did it for the oil leak that inevitably follows!

regards

Taffy
 
Member GEE BEE had some silicone gaskets made. They were carried at The Husaberg Store and at Motoxotica (one in the same). Dan may still have some.
 
I think taffy is referring to the rocker cover to head mating surface. I think the silicone gaskets are for the tappet inspection covers.
 
You would have to machine either head or rocker cover sealing surface to compensate for gasket thickness- or you would end up with not enough crush on your cam bearings.

Edit- after rereading your issue Taff, it appears you either need the gasket or get your bearing bores machined to allow for all the material already removed..

I thought about simply machining an O ring groove in the middle of the sealing surface and adding a small section of O ring in the front LHS leak prone area, but thats another on my list of "gunna do's"

Plus, not sure if it would really help that much.
 
well it looks like i might be doing a first just to see what it does - for kicks. it's purely to take up the gap with the fact that it might seal better being an added benefit.

it's an old engine now. some 7 years old of which i've thrashed it hard for 6 and it's been an R & D hotbed for me so i have no complaints no matter how much it wants to dribble on my boots!

regards

Taffy
 
whosahberg said:
wurth silicone sealant did what no other could do ... fix the bleedin' leak
Click to expand...

aha! and its the copper coloured stuff!

regards

Taffy
 
you get the wurth stuff in blue sticks like **** to a blanket never leaks thin smear is all you need ,and it stays put not blocking filters or oil ways
regards steve
 
gruntunberg said:
you get the wurth stuff in blue sticks like stuff to a blanket never leaks thin smear is all you need ,and it stays put not blocking filters or oil ways
regards steve
Click to expand...

The blue Wurth is rebranded Hylomar, at least thats what I have recently purchased. I can get the stock number if anyone is interested.

http://www.hylomar-usa.com/
 
disagree that it's rebranded hylomar. The wurth stuff is not in an alloy toothpaste tube it's in a rigid alloy tube with a gas propellant. hylomar in my experience does not adhere well so squeezed excess falls off and is prone to clogging filters and oilways.

Honestly, this wurth stuff is truly amazing. you don't even have to degrease before application (although I always do) it pushes oil/grease out of the way and like grunters says, it sticks like sh*t to a blanket.

I use it completely as a gasket subsitiute and that is rocker, valve tappet covers, primary drive and alternator. Just a thin smear and it seals absolutely :)

Keith
 
I have always used somekind of *bond. Grey stuff that glues together very well and the excessive stuff sticks to the seal and does not easily loosen and clogg the strainer. Have anyone compared the wurth miracle sealant to the normal Three Bond sealant?
 
OK! When having problems with Three Bond I have found that applying thin on both surfaces will give better adhesion. But if Würth is better than I'll try that out immedeately. What Würth-type is recommended for rocker cover, valve covers and crank case? Blue, Red or Copper?
 
we had an excellent thread recently about the best sealant. i left the three bond to cure for 30 minutes and then left it over night before starting it. that has helped a lot.

two weeks ago i got a bottle of the wurth super RTV silicon sealant in copper (ie red) well i think it's a step forward over the three bond but (and it's a big BUTT here folks!) the flippin mess the wurth makes, makes me work. i mean it just does not come out in any controllable way!

thick red and lots of it whereas the three-bond you could let drip out and run it around the cover.

i have tried a tiny alloy nozzle from an old air jet in the wurth and it's now much better. but that was friday and now no doubt i'm going to have a permanently blocked nozzle!

did someone mention what the three colours do? i'll now check back....

regards

Taffy
 
Hi Taff. The last thing I'd have recommended for the rocker cover is Loctite 515 Master Gasket (or whatever the latest number for it is), but in your case you want to fill a gap, & it might be worth a try. On the cover I'd guess it'd squish to about 2 or 3 thou thick but seems to lock up solid if it gets any thinner than that. If you decide to try it, tighten the rocker cover bolts sparingly or you might pull the cover out of flat.

Being anaerobic, the bits that squirt out tend to not form hard or rubbery lumps that get caught in galleries.

My experience with its thickness was in the centre crakcase joint of a Subaru engine - it propped the cases apart enough to let the main bearings loose & it rattled like all hell.
 
Taffy - As you no doubt know I have full sets of Husaberg gaskets made now by an aftermarket supplier. I do everything inc the head gasket in 100mm, 105mm and 108mm.

I can have a gasket made for this easily but what do you propose we do about the ateration in height putting a gasket in would make? Do you propose we mill say 0.5mm off the rocker cover and run a 0.5mm gasket? Obviously we still have to have the cam bearing housing come up round when we clamp it down. If you want to try it email me and I will have a sample made.
 
well ben yes i did hear about the gaskets.

i've made my own gaskets for 30 years and i still have the original packet. the trouble as you'll know is that you need some give in the gasket and that starts i reckon at 0.5mm as you say. the important thing is that it shgould crush down to 'X' and that the gasket doesn't change shape where the gap is.

making one for my own bike isn't a problem. its a moving test bed as it is.

another thing to remember is that the gasket is NOT part of crushing up the cam bearings. that is still metal to metal. i figure the last thing you have to woirry about is the cam but what you leave for a gap for the gasket. get that right and you're in!

i bet the japs managed to combine hard metal and gasket. they think of everything (first) those sneeky yellow perils!

regards

Taffy
 

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